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Thread: BEAVIS' White NB Turbo Track Car

  1. #121
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    Mine did a 1:32 with Oem turbo, so there is plenty left with that car. It would have felt very different to last time you went with aero and no power in your car.
    NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VP 293KW- P.I 1:46.0 WNTN 1:33.5

  2. #122
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    The Dave Moore car has a lot less grip and is much more streetable than a lightyear winged car but with its power level it's trickier to drive at the track.
    Last edited by bbeavis; 18-10-17 at 07:43 PM.

  3. #123
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    How about that update on the Track NB that I've been owing you all for oh so long? Well here it is!

    So finally back onto the Turbo track car.... and first up, I thought it would be fun to post up a video I put together of what it's like trying to start a car for the first time in about 2 years after an excessive collection of changes have occurred to the poor thing.
    The cars had a lot of changes between running from ecu retunes to turbo installs to new ignition system to completely different injectors to a change in the entire intake system. You can probably predict roughly how it goes.


    The cause of the start issues ended up being simple, in reworking the wiring for the ignition I had to donate some of my wiring loom to another car for a short while and in the process, the pinout on the deutsch connector for the coil packs had been switched... resulting in Cyls 1&4 firing when 2&3 should have been, and vice versa.



    Moving on, one of the breather lines was annoyingly close to the dipstick, and if you know anything about these cars, you know the dipstick handle is made of faberge egg... if you even just think about touching the dipstick it breaks.
    So to try keep the hose away from the dipstick, I found a spare 45deg bend AN fitting and it made such a simple thing seem so satisfying. Not strictly necessary, but it made me feel good.




    Regarding the forementioned battery from a few posts ago, I ended up designing a mounting bracket, and hooking the thing up to an anderson connector for easy disconnects or to attach a jumper pack etc. Mounted up under the dash so battery cabling is all very short and should save a nice amount of weight.

  4. #124
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    Now if you've been following my posts via Instagram/Facebook you'll have seen I recently got this Electric water pump in and working.
    Why go electric water pump? Other than the personal challenge and my own curiosity in something different, it will allow for running the pump even when the motor has stopped, which will presumably be good for the turbo, it makes bleeding a breeze as theres no thermostat and therefore no need to run the motor up to temp to try flush out air pockets and it is controllable via the ECU.


    To get the thing in and working, I first needed to remove the old mechanical belt driven water pump (which was brand new sadly so theres $100 down the drain - doh!) and to get to the water pump, meant all the 'bits' on the front of the motor need to come off including valve cover and plastic timing belt covers, pulleys and the timing belt then lastly the water pump itself.



    In place of the old water pump I've installed a modified & gutted spare water pump. This pump has had a block off plate welded where the old impeller lived, and is needed to do 3 important things... 1) fill the big hole in the front of the motor, 2) Provide mounting locations for the timing belt pulleys, 3) provides the convenient location on the exhaust side of the motor where the water pump inlet housing bolts to...
    You can also see the slightly odd nakedness of having no water pump pulley. All I need now is a belt from the crank to the alternator. No other belt driven items on this motor anymore.


    Speaking of the inlet housing, that also copped some modification. I flipped it 180 degrees, shortened it, and blocked off the old holes for the heater core hard line and the small coolant line barb.


    With all that done, the new Electric Water Pump had a home to go to, and it fit right in. The pumps inlet and outlet are about 38mm diameter, wheres the Mazda runs 32mm hoses. So I found some aeropro branded straight reducers locally which fit perfectly on each end, and made the install a breeze. (now that everything else was modified to suit)


    The elec pump is now all plumbed into the radiator, and the inlet to the 'dummy water pump'. It sits in place just with the support of the silicone hoses, no brackets or other mounting is required.



    And, it's high enough above the bottom of the subframe that it shouldnt have any issues clearing the lower splitter and floor... And most importantly, the thing is pumping fluid! I ghetto rigged up a car battery to check it was all happy and it ran like a dream. Made some really amusing gulping noises for a minute or two before all the air was purged.


    Keep a look out as I've got a video coming in a week or two with more detail on the EWP if you are keen to see how it was done and want to hear my soothing voice talk you through the process. :P

    Cheers

  5. #125
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    My brother has an EWP on his NA6 MX5.

    Was on it when he bought it and uses the Davies Craig controller.

    Seems to do a good job, haven't had a look at what they did to the water pump though
    Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars

  6. #126
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo510 View Post
    My brother has an EWP on his NA6 MX5.
    ... haven't had a look at what they did to the water pump though
    I'd certainly be keen to see what others have done in that area. There's not a lot of info shared online around MX-5's with EWP's so I've made a lot of it up myself.

  7. #127
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    It's bolted to a flange welded to the lower radiator pipe.

    I'll get him to take some pics and post them up
    Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars

  8. #128
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    To finish of the water pump from last time, there was one thing missing, the wiring and ECU control.
    So while the pump WAS working, it was pumping coolant, but it was just some temporary wiring.
    As such, let me introduce you to the Bartine Engineering mosfet control board do-hickey which is triggered by the MS3 ECU to allow PWM control of the pump.
    With this (and the help Alex's wiring skils) the pump is now ramped up dependant on coolant temperature so that it can function like a thermostat.
    It seems to work well however time will tell once the car is up to speed and we can log coolant temps to see how they stabilse.


    Also from a temperature perspective, I've wrapped my intake in this ebay spec gold tape. The stuff gives off a nice glow so I'm hoping it will help reflect radiant heat and aid in keeping intake air temperatures down.
    I may also wrap the intake tube from the intercooler to the trottle body... perhaps I will see how this goes first. I'm assuming it will be able to hold up to the on track demands.



    I've hit an important milestore, it's finally time to start thinking about finishing off the next phase of body/aero on the car. This is exciting because this is kind of all that's left before we take the car out for a real drive. (of course, the car is never 'done' but you get the idea...)
    So a few items have started happening. Firstly, I've been considering redoing the front guards/fenders and cutting them in half, something like the shape shown with the blue tape line.



    Secondly, is the new Lightyear wing that is going on the car. This is going to require a little bit of home engineering to get it mounted and fit up, and will need some endplates as the old ones appear to have been donated somewhere for the greater good. How do you lose wing endplates?


    Mocked up on the car just for a bit of fun, however it needs a lot of attention before it will be mounted up for the final time. New mounts, some cleaning up of the surface finish, and maybe a gurney flap?


    So.... she's getting closer to being back in action now.
    For the moment, we are going away for a short trip overseas to visit family and take a little time off. As soon as I'm back I have no doubt I will be straight back to it.

  9. #129
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    You can have my carbon fibre front and rear guards. But you will need to get some wide 10-11" rims and 275's. Or spacers. I decided to go the other way now, keep everything much tamer and simpler.
    NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VP 293KW- P.I 1:46.0 WNTN 1:33.5

  10. #130
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightyear View Post
    You can have my carbon fibre front and rear guards. But you will need to get some wide 10-11" rims and 275's. Or spacers. I decided to go the other way now, keep everything much tamer and simpler.
    No thanks, too wide for my wheels and tyre availability will become a big issue then.

  11. #131
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    Still trying to decide what I do next with the fenders/guards. One option I'm considering is adding vents at the top LMS car style:



    This however, won't net me any weight savings, whereas cutting away some of the guard will..... so I'm not sure. Perhaps I should do both??

  12. #132
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Do you have a link for the ebay reflective gold tape?
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Sports Sedan

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  14. #134
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    You can buy it at Motorsport Accessories at Brendale Sambo, recently bought a few sheets for the benz.
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    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
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  15. #135
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Cheers guys, ordered some last night. The bloke at MSA had been saying for over 12 months that he was getting the gold stuff in, just didn't know when. So they have it now? I've used the DEI stuff in areas, bloody hell its spendy for something that really isn't that tricky.
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

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  16. #136
    Brown Cunt MR-PUNANNY's Avatar
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    Love your build/YouTube channel....can I ask wher eyou got your wing mounts made? As i need some made myself.
    Quote Originally Posted by The Property Guru
    don't haemophrodites generally have tiny wangs?
    Quote Originally Posted by oxy View Post
    No, that's asians
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  17. #137
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MR-PUNANNY View Post
    Love your build/YouTube channel....can I ask wher eyou got your wing mounts made? As i need some made myself.
    They are just home made MR-P
    It's some 6mm aluminium plate i grabbed from a local alu supplier.

    Oh, and thanks for the appreciation of the utubes

  18. #138
    Brown Cunt MR-PUNANNY's Avatar
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    Ahhh ok, awesome man, Im shit with Metal work haha
    Quote Originally Posted by The Property Guru
    don't haemophrodites generally have tiny wangs?
    Quote Originally Posted by oxy View Post
    No, that's asians
    A80 Supra
    80 Landcruiser

  19. #139
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    So long time no post... this is going to be a little lengthy, so bear with me.
    To continue the talk on the Lightyear wing element from the last post, lets start with the mount.

    While originally I was just going to bolt it directly onto the old aluminium mounts, somehow along the way I convinced myself it was a good idea to invest the time into mounting the thing 'swan-neck' style.
    This specific wing was a prototype and wasn't manufactured with these top mounts in mind, so to make it strong enough to support the forces it will be facing, I re-purposed the underside mounts into spreader plates, glued them in place and temporarily screwed them down.


    Then drilled through the screw holes to run bolts to the top side which attach to the top mounts.


    New upper 6mm plates in the 'swan neck' shape were made to attach the thing to the existing (although slightly modified) uprights.


    Made some carbon end plates with a foam core, about 8mm thick so they are pretty beefy, but at least we won't see any inward bending on the underside when at speed.


    Still needs some cleaning up and refinement but the bulk of the work on the wing is now complete. It's just about as wide as the body of the car, around 1660mm or so.


    I did a quick front guard/fender hack job, should theoretically make for better wheel well airflow. I literally just marked out a line, and had at it with the angle grinder. Nothing particularly fancy here. You can just see a section of aluminium under the lowest point of the guard to hold it securely and avoid any movement when at speed.


    With the wing now mounted and front guards cut, the car was starting to look pretty aggressive again.


    And then it was time to fix the front end. The first step was to work on a new splitter, I wanted to try build something that would be easily removed to make loading on the trailer easier, and ideally nice and wide.
    I started with a sheet of this aluminum composite panel stuff. It's nifty but perhaps a little too weak for a splitter. I can only find it in 6mm sheets here in Melbourne, anything stronger or thicker is a lot more costly and harder to source.


    Doing this sort of work results in a garage that's a complete mess....


    Anyway, with some persistence, I got the front end done. I also blocked the OEM fog light holes with some sheet aluminium, and the gap between the bumper and splitter is just filled with plastic garden edging. (it's a little too heavy but such is life.)



    Then believe it or not, my worst fears were to become reality, the splitter composite panel just wasn't strong enough for the span it covered without additional support. How did I find this out?


    Well I took the car for a sneaky little test out to Phillip Island to iron out some bugs and see what needed fixing/refining etc. Clearly, the splitter was one of those things.


    Despite the splitter needing to be trimmed down to stop it failing, the car worked! Well, mostly. There's a small list of issues that I need to work through but the thing is getting back out there on the tarmac.





    Some of the said issues included:
    • Missing a front swaybar endlink (no front sway made for a bad experience)
    • Loose exhaust clamp.
    • No oil pressure sensor to ECU.
    • No speed sensor to ECU.
    • ABS doesn't seem to be working. (this is a worry)


    On the upside, I've got most of those fixed now (except the ABS, that's still a concerning once), and finally starting to drive the car again which had been sitting (although, not being left untouched) for nearly 3 years.
    And, I have entered the next MX-5 VIC club sprint day at Winton in about 3 weeks which will be a blast I'm sure!

  20. #140
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    I forgot about your wheel box stand thingo's. They would have come in handy, it's hard to do underbody aero with the car on a hoist. I have axle stands on the LCA's, seems to work all the same, just not as high. You don't need abs, it's extra weight, pull it out
    NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VP 293KW- P.I 1:46.0 WNTN 1:33.5

  21. #141
    Registered User schnitzelburger's Avatar
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    nice progress, good to see it getting track time.
    Turbo NB MX5: more derp less carbon lightyear clone
    Supra sold it: 1983 MA61 Supra - 2JZ-GTE + 6spd

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  22. #142
    Registered User Mini_Me's Avatar
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    This is sensational! Well done


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  23. #143
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    This is looking tops, good work.
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Sports Sedan

  24. #144
    Moderator Cal's Avatar
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    Not really been following this build. Wow quality result.
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  25. #145
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Are the wheel stand thingos detailed somewhere?
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  26. #146
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    Nice work! Did you do the video on the EWP installation? If so could you please post a link?

  27. #147
    MX-5 Hairdresser bbeavis's Avatar
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    Thanks for the very kind ego boost folks



    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Are the wheel stand thingos detailed somewhere?
    I presume you mean the "fruit boxes"? Haha. I havn't mentioned them before... they are just pine that I cut to length, glued and screwed together with some bracing on the inside to keep them strong. People think they look sus and weak but they'd easily hold twice the weight. They're good for doing work on the car where I want the thing loaded on its wheels, or where jack stands would get in the way.



    Quote Originally Posted by Sprinkles View Post
    Nice work! Did you do the video on the EWP installation? If so could you please post a link?
    Yep, it was a fairly lengthy process, well for me it was, so it ended up being 3 videos, first one is below (apologies for the ugly mug shot thumbnail, but that's youtube videos for you)
    Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2E5lpekZ4Ig
    And part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XF4Cu5JmU8U
    And 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yz6ZuWRYZKE


  28. #148
    CNGAF rowdytoot's Avatar
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    Looking good, look foward to fully sorted track videos

    1998 MX5 - Ohlins DFV coilovers, Roll bar,15 x7.5 Konig Litespeeds, Mania Intake
    2014 Colorado LT - Oversized Whitegoods. Kid/bike/track hack/horse hauler.

  29. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbeavis View Post
    Thanks for the very kind ego boost folks




    I presume you mean the "fruit boxes"? Haha. I havn't mentioned them before... they are just pine that I cut to length, glued and screwed together with some bracing on the inside to keep them strong. People think they look sus and weak but they'd easily hold twice the weight. They're good for doing work on the car where I want the thing loaded on its wheels, or where jack stands would get in the way.




    Yep, it was a fairly lengthy process, well for me it was, so it ended up being 3 videos, first one is below (apologies for the ugly mug shot thumbnail, but that's youtube videos for you)
    Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2E5lpekZ4Ig
    And part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XF4Cu5JmU8U
    And 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yz6ZuWRYZKE

    Thanks for posting those videos Beavis, very informative.

    Question: Are you happy with how the EWP is mounted, just supported by the hoses? Is that the "normal" way to mount them? If I had not seen your video, I would be fabricating a bracket to mount the EWP to the engine.

  30. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprinkles View Post
    Thanks for posting those videos Beavis, very informative.

    Question: Are you happy with how the EWP is mounted, just supported by the hoses? Is that the "normal" way to mount them? If I had not seen your video, I would be fabricating a bracket to mount the EWP to the engine.
    I have mounted EWP with hoses without issue in the past.

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