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Thread: IPRA S15 Build

  1. #1
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    IPRA S15 Build

    So after watching Boppa get his Mojo on with the Pulsar, I was inspired to get my sh1t together and start the process of buying and building a new race car.

    Since Selling the Sunny in 2010, I have always wanted to build an S15. So when this one came up for sale, I thought it looked like a good base to start with.

    The plan is to build it to run Improved Production, with a couple of different options available to me. We could run it in over 2L, which would be most people's obvious choice, OR we may run it in under 2L as either a NA 2L or Turbo'd 1200cc. The choice of which engine package we go for will remain undecided until later in the year. With the IPRA nationals coming to WA in 2017, the plan is to get the car up to spec by early 2017 and hopefully be competitive by the time the nationals come around.

    During the course of this year, I will be focussing on brakes & chassis set-up. The car has enough HP to put it in the middle of either Over or Under 2L, so will stay unchanged for the time being. My plan is to do track days etc to develop the handling & brakes (and knocking off the rust from the driver) before throwing a cage & engine in it late 2016 or early 2017.

    I've set-up a Facebook page to follow the build (https://www.facebook.com/fullthrottlemotorsport/ ), it's the easiest way for me to upload photos etc without having to muck around with re-sizing etc. We also have a GoPro which will be used at all track days and footage uploaded to Youtube after each run.

    The first track day/night is this Thursday, so I am really looking forward to getting back on the track after 6 years and seeing how horrible this thing is with all the weight still in it and the used road tyres. Either way, I'm sure I'll be smiling.

    Let the fun times begin!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Specs as purchased are as follows :

    2001 Nissian Silvia 200SX S15 Spec S
    Apexi AVCR Boost Controller
    HKS boost gage
    HKS air filters
    Cusco strut bar
    D2 Full racing suspension
    Cusco oil catch tank
    Apexi intercooler
    Apexi Power FC ECU
    Apexi Turbo Timer
    Competition quality sound system
    ORC Twin plate carbon clutch and lightened fly wheel
    Aftermarket exhaust manifold
    HKS Dump pipe
    Full HKS exhaust
    HID Headlights
    18 inch Gmax deep dish rims
    Running 300 bhp
    Last edited by Datman; 13-03-16 at 03:07 PM.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

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  2. #2
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    didn't think they let the 200sx run in IPRA?
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  3. #3
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    Yes, the S13, S14 & S15 are on the approved list ;-)
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

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  4. #4
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    didn't think they let the 200sx run in IPRA?
    Why not, Australian Delivered in the right numbers and all the correct eligibility criteria.
    S13 needed to be added but 14 and 15 automatically fit. Some stupid Wog C#@t in SA didn't want them.
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  5. #5
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    Tell us how you really feel Steve
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

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  6. #6
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    Gotta go the u2l option I reckon, no restrictor Impact but decent aero and suspension

  7. #7
    Wankeling Rotard
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    Nice work, will be following with interest. I kind of wish I'd gone this way instead of RX8 to be honest - mostly in terms of how much easier it will be to make it competitive.
    '93 fini FD RX7 | '04 FE RX8 blog.vtxms.com
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  8. #8
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    Still not 100% sure which Category or class we will run in. Another option we have here in WA is "Street Cars". Probably a better fit for the Late Model Turbo cars. (No restrictor for a start!)
    Time will tell, this year is about track days and having some fun with it, while working on the handling & brake set-ups.

    Easter weekend will see the first weight loss step, so will see how much we can strip out of it.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

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  9. #9
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
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    Mark, Fit an SB2.2 Chev NASCAR Road Course engine and run Streetcars. Cheap long living engines, Engine rules for Streetcar are full 3D so don't waste time and money on SR20s.
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  10. #10
    Registered User the big fist's Avatar
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    Looked good last night out the track !

    Supashake why is the sr a bad choice for streetcars ?
    The current batch of sr's in street cars seem to be doing pretty well.
    Serious question !

    Cheers

  11. #11
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the big fist View Post
    Looked good last night out the track !

    Supashake why is the sr a bad choice for streetcars ?
    The current batch of sr's in street cars seem to be doing pretty well.
    Serious question !

    Cheers
    Reliability and on going costs.
    Need your own business to keep on top of them.
    Ive been involved it Turbo race engines for many Decades, Cheap reliable proper Race V8s make much more sense if rules allow for them.
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  12. #12
    Registered User the big fist's Avatar
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    Thanks Supashake, great info.

  13. #13
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
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    I spent years on modding Production engine only to learn dedicated race stuff is much cheaper in the long term. Sportsedans prove that.
    A NASCAR SB engine cost less than a built Turbo engine once you add up all the parts inc Turbos and Drysumps etc etc.
    Personally been down this path. 800+hp and very long life.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRESH-BUILT-...lWnlc5&vxp=mtr

    Check out the cost of replacement parts also, 8 pistons cost less than 4 SR ones.
    Last edited by Supashake; 26-03-16 at 12:07 PM.
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  14. #14
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    Did the Chev powered RX7 ever get finished & tested?
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
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    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
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  15. #15
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supashake View Post
    I spent years on modding Production engine only to learn dedicated race stuff is much cheaper in the long term. Sportsedans prove that.
    A NASCAR SB engine cost less than a built Turbo engine once you add up all the parts inc Turbos and Drysumps etc etc.
    Personally been down this path. 800+hp and very long life.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRESH-BUILT-...lWnlc5&vxp=mtr

    Check out the cost of replacement parts also, 8 pistons cost less than 4 SR ones.

    What gearbox would you run behind something like that?
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

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  16. #16
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Datman View Post
    What gearbox would you run behind something like that?
    Any Chev fitment. Used a Holinger in Ashlys old FD. Tremec etc are all upto it. Ron Moller only does a valve spring change once a season on his.
    You have to see one apart to see how cool these things are. Road course Cam is perfect for track use, Oval is a top end screamer.
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  17. #17
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    What about a sr16ve Turbo engine?

  18. #18
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    It's not out of the question.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

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  19. #19
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
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    De'stroked CA18. Better block.
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  20. #20
    Registered User the big fist's Avatar
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    Wouldnt being turbo hit you with a multiplier that would put you in the above 2L class ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Supashake View Post
    De'stroked CA18. Better block.
    And heaps smaller ports. I can't imagine any Sr head being much chop after being de stroked, air speed would be terrible until it eventually made boost.

  22. #22
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    Sr16ve and ca18det mean a minimum weight.
    Originally Posted by Tut
    THEY SHOULD ANALYY RAPE THEMSELVES WITH A FUCING CACTUS UPSIDE DOWN WITH COCONIUTS AND PINEABPPLES AS CHRISTMAS BALLS THE FUCKNIG THIEVENG CUNTS ID RATHER DIE FROM HAVING A RAINBOW UNICORN URETHRALLY RAPE ME THAN TO FUCKNIG DO BUSINESS WITH THEM CUTNST EVER AGAN

  23. #23
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    There are a number of different options that I will look at throughout the year before making a decision.

    Options are:
    1. Street Cars
    2. IP - Over 2L
    3. IP - Under 2L - Turbo 1200cc
    4. IP - Under 2L - NA

    For now, it will be built to be eligible to run in IP (Street cars has extra freedoms), but will probably run in street cars initially with the standard engine and no restrictor. From there, We'll make a decision.

    I must admit, the challenge of building something different (ie. Under 2L Turbo) has an appeal to me.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

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  24. #24
    Registered User monk_13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supashake View Post
    Reliability and on going costs.
    Need your own business to keep on top of them.
    Ive been involved it Turbo race engines for many Decades, Cheap reliable proper Race V8s make much more sense if rules allow for them.
    What makes the SR an unreliable choice?

    I know a few guys running them and reliability hasn't been an issue. There's been o ring failures on dry sump setups, coil packs deciding not to play any more, and the usual little niggles that can, and do happen to any make of engine, but nothing that would make me think SR's themselves would be unreliable.
    Emo 6 - Track
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  25. #25
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    SR16VE is a stock head and block, not de-stroked.

  26. #26
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    So, It's been great getting back out into the shed and swinging some spanners again. Made some progress and pretty sure I'll run the car in IP over 2L. Not matter how I look at it, I'll most likely never have the budget to contend for the national title, so I've decided to see how far I can get, doing as much of the work myself and working on a reasonable budget.

    We did the first track day a couple of months back to set a bench mark. On the scales, the car weighed in at 1,310kg's without driver (thanks to the Audio gear). The stock radiator was no where near up to the task, and temps of 110c were hit within 1.5 laps at full noise. The brakes in the car were also fading after a couple of hard applications. Basically, that meant I got one flying lap in each session, so not a lot of time to get into any sort of rhythm after many years out of the seat.

    The best times we managed on the night were :
    Long track : 1:17.4
    Short track : 1:04.1

    Since then, I have started stripping the car, and so far have removed 150kg's. Down to 1,158kg's without driver. The immediate goal is to get under 1,100kg's so still a bit of work to do.
    The radiator has been replaced with an ebay ASI 3 core unit which seems to be working well. On the road, the engine temps are now sitting at 67 degrees, down from 82-85 with the stock radiator. Will be interesting to see how it goes on track.

    I have upgraded the front brake pads also and replaced all the fluids, hopefully that helps with the fade for now. The initial brake upgrade will be to use the standard 4 piston calipers up front with the GKtech dog bones & 324mm two piece rotors. At the back, I'll upgrade to the R33/Z32 two piston nissan calipers and 297mm rotors. A balance bar has also been ordered with remote adjuster and the ABS & booster will be removed. At some point down the track, I'll probably go to either the GTR or EVO brembo's front & rear.

    The other area which needs more immediate attention will be the wheels & tyres. The tyres on the car may well be wide, but they are a bit old & hard. Just trying to work out what diameter (17 'v' 18) & offset to run. Will be going with the Enkei RPF1's with 9" width. Will probably run 245's all round to make rotating tyres easier from front to rear. Would like to have all wheels with same offset also, so will probably need to run spacers. Still a bit to figure out here.

    Next event is 23rd of June, so hopefully I can run the full sessions and get a bit of a groove going and drop the times....... and have some fun!
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

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    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
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  27. #27
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    Interior Stripped
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    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  28. #28
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
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    Pics of New radiator & Boot stripped out. Still need to get the dynamat off from the boot area..... shitfull stuff that is!
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    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  29. #29
    Registered User 3sgem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Datman View Post
    Pics of New radiator & Boot stripped out. Still need to get the dynamat off from the boot area..... shitfull stuff that is!
    Keep it going Datman, going to be following this with great interest.

    Will this be a $$$ build or a budget one?

  30. #30
    Registered User the big fist's Avatar
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    I've got 17x9 +22 all around in rp1f. had to roll and flare guards a bit. still rubs a bit in the rear. hope that helps!

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