Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 61 to 90 of 126

Thread: IPRA S15 Build

  1. #61
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Brake Update.........

    I have achieved a little bit of progress this week with the brakes. I got hold of an EVO 8 Front rotor and also a Subaru STI front rotor to test fit with some wheels. It turns out the Brembo callipers on the EVO's are the same as those on the STI Subaru's. The rotor's however are slightly different.

    First the results for the EVO rotor. 320mm rotor with a thickness of 32mm. The "hat height" (or offset) of the rotor is 43.5mm (Standard S15 is 54mm) This means the rotor and therefore the calliper is around 10mm closer to the wheel spokes than stock. This was not a problem with the 17x9 stock R33 GTR wheels (offset +30), there was heaps of clearance, however, they still fouled on the Enkei RPf1's (offset +22). I guess it's true, the Enkei RPF1 is just not "Big Brake" friendly. The problem is the Enkei wheel is very cost effective and very light for it's size (around 7.2kg's for 17x9)

    Next I tried the STI rotor. This is a 326mm rotor with a thickness of 30mm. To cater for the difference in rotor thickness, when you order STI Brembo pads, they are 1mm thicker than EVO ones. The "hat Height" or offset of these rotors is closer to the stock S15 rotor at 53mm. Obviously, they fitted the GTR wheels with no issue, the good news is, they also fit the Enkei RPF1! At Last, a combo that will fit!

    So what does this all mean.........

    On the down side, the thinner rotor means it wont deal with the heat quite as well as the EVO rotor, but should still do the job. The centre hole of the rotor is only 58mm, so it wont fit the S15 without machining the centre hole out to 68mm. There are not any "off the shelf" calliper adaptors in the market (that I know of) to bolt this set-up together, so I will need to get some made (if it's even possible).

    On the up side, there are off the shelf 2 piece floating rotors available at very reasonable costs, the rotor is a slightly larger diameter (6mm) and the is also lighter than the EVO 2 piece rotors by nearly 1kg, in fact the STI rotor is only 300g heavier than the stock rotor. Which means, the combined weight of the rotor & calliper is actually 200g lighter than the stock combo while being 46mm bigger in diameter!

    So the next step is to get the STI rotors centre hole machined to 68mm to fit the S15 hubs. Once that's done, we can start on designing the calliper adaptors to bolt the whole lot together!
    Last edited by Datman; 23-07-16 at 10:27 AM.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  2. #62
    Registered User the big fist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by Supashake View Post
    I used Porsche Radial mount Calipers on my GTiR, Cost less than EVO, almost identical but easier to mount.
    Supashake how do you go about making up adapters ?
    Do you design and get someone to make them up ?
    Pretty interesting conversion I haven't seen before.

    Sorry for hijack !

  3. #63
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Roleystone
    Posts
    3,289
    Quote Originally Posted by the big fist View Post
    Supashake how do you go about making up adapters ?
    Do you design and get someone to make them up ?
    Pretty interesting conversion I haven't seen before.

    Sorry for hijack !
    I just machine them up at home on my Mill.
    Its easy to measure them up and get machined. Pic is not my car but gives you an idea.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    GURU ENGINEERING PTY LTD

  4. #64
    Registered User the big fist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    988
    Thanks Supa, much appreciated !
    You've got all the skills !

  5. #65
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Mini Update......

    Yesterday I removed a fair portion of the braking system. ABS Unit is out, master cylinder is out and the brake booster is out (what a bastard that was). I have also removed the Cusco breather can, as we have to run a much larger one to go racing, from memory it needs to be 1 litre capacity, but I need to check on that. I can now start planning the balance bar set-up and deciding on which master cylinders to run. I also need to design the bracket which will hold the balance bar.

    The balance bar set-up looks the same as this one. ------> http://www.project200sx.com/index.php/brakes-2

    I have dropped off the rotors we plan to use to have the centre holes machined out to fit the S15 hubs, and once they are done, we can also dummy up and make the calliper adaptor brackets.
    While the calliper adaptor brackets are being made, I will also get the machinist to modify the strut tops so that I can maximise the amount camber, as we can't run adjustable arms under IPRA rules. I'm hoping to get 4 degrees of neg at the front, which should be more than enough.
    Last edited by Datman; 24-07-16 at 09:24 AM.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  6. #66
    Registered User the big fist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    988
    I find IPRA rules really interesting. It's almost like a challenge on how far you can interpret them to make changes !
    What will you do you do for a restrictor ?

  7. #67
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    I'll either make one or maybe buy one from the guys at Boostworx in South Australia. I did heaps of research on restrictors when I built the last car, but I will do it a little different this time around. The last one flowed pretty well, but I don't think I still have the CAD drawing for it.
    Last edited by Datman; 24-07-16 at 01:09 PM.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  8. #68
    Registered User the big fist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    988
    Silly question, but can you run any turbo you like as long as you have the restrictor ?
    Are you planning to run stock turbo ?

  9. #69
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    The turbo is free. You can run whatever you like.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  10. #70
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Roleystone
    Posts
    3,289
    Quote Originally Posted by Datman View Post
    Mini Update......

    Yesterday I removed a fair portion of the braking system. ABS Unit is out, master cylinder is out and the brake booster is out (what a bastard that was). I have also removed the Cusco breather can, as we have to run a much larger one to go racing, from memory it needs to be 1 litre capacity, but I need to check on that. I can now start planning the balance bar set-up and deciding on which master cylinders to run. I also need to design the bracket which will hold the balance bar.

    The balance bar set-up looks the same as this one. ------> http://www.project200sx.com/index.php/brakes-2

    I have dropped off the rotors we plan to use to have the centre holes machined out to fit the S15 hubs, and once they are done, we can also dummy up and make the calliper adaptor brackets.
    While the calliper adaptor brackets are being made, I will also get the machinist to modify the strut tops so that I can maximise the amount camber, as we can't run adjustable arms under IPRA rules. I'm hoping to get 4 degrees of neg at the front, which should be more than enough.
    4deg is easy between the top and adjustment at the bottom.. Caster is what you will work hard to get within the rules.
    GURU ENGINEERING PTY LTD

  11. #71
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    How much caster do you think I should be aiming for?
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  12. #72
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    274
    as much as you can legally get within IP rules

  13. #73
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Quote Originally Posted by Barney View Post
    as much as you can legally get within IP rules
    Cool, so same principal I used on the Sunny. LOL
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  14. #74
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Roleystone
    Posts
    3,289
    You will never get enough so just do your best. Call me one day and i'll lot you know how to get usable Caster with in the rules.
    GURU ENGINEERING PTY LTD

  15. #75
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    So, making progress slowly on the brake set-up.

    Sti Rotor has been machined, and now fits the S15 front hub.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	STi Rotor mounted.JPG 
Views:	15 
Size:	1.55 MB 
ID:	94202

    Brembo Calliper in position, ready for dog bones to be made.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Brembo in position.JPG 
Views:	16 
Size:	179.1 KB 
ID:	94203

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Brembo rear view.JPG 
Views:	16 
Size:	122.0 KB 
ID:	94204

    New direction for rear brakes - R33 GTST.
    Name:  R33 Rear Brakes.JPG
Views: 567
Size:  115.9 KB
    Last edited by Datman; 10-08-16 at 09:48 AM.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  16. #76
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701

    Rear Brake Upgrade

    Finally got some time this weekend to get the rear brake upgrade completed.

    * Removed the S15 stock set-up.
    * Removed the Handbrake cables & handbrake mechanism from inside cabin
    * Cut back the stone guards (will be removed when the uprights are changed)
    * Fit up R33 GTST Rear rotor (297mm vented 18mm thick. Original was 258mm Solid)
    * Bolt up R33 GTST Rear Callipers (Twin piston instead of single piston)

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	R33 GTST rear brakes.JPG 
Views:	19 
Size:	129.0 KB 
ID:	94503

    Still got plenty to do, So I wrote my list on the whiteboard. While not "Everything" is on there, I have concentrated on just what needs to be sorted to get back out and do another track day.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	List of Things to do.JPG 
Views:	18 
Size:	134.7 KB 
ID:	94504
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  17. #77
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Yet another change of plans this week. After it being suggested that the Pedal Ratio on the car may be no good to run un-boosted, I took some measurements and sure enough the pedal ratio is only around 4.1:1
    This means I will have to shelve the balance bar set-up and run a full pedal box.
    The research begins now on pedal boxes.........
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  18. #78
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney, NSW/Australia
    Posts
    47
    willwood pedal boxes have good options for what you are looking to do.- correct ratios and M/C options. HTH

  19. #79
    Registered User Andy San's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    201
    I'd hold off on buying anything until the new pedalbox wording comes out next year. Floor mount boxes will be an option as well.

  20. #80
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Been a while since I have updated......

    1. Pedal box rule has still not been sorted for IPRA, looks like it will be another year away. Will need to decide what to do when I cage the car next year. Just going to stick with the stock booster and a larger MC for the time being and go have some fun on the track. Will sort out the pedal box later.
    2. Caliper adapters (dogbones) should be ready in the next week, so then I can bolt up the calipers and plumb it all up.
    3. Front springs are out of the car, will get them rated this week to see what I have
    4. Strut tops have been modified to help get a little extra camber if required, will bolt them back in once the springs have been rated and the front strut assembly goes back into the car.

    I hope to tackle the sound deadener over the Christmas braek. Dry ice the inside and scrap off the underside...... what better way to spend the Christmas Holidays.

    Will just need some wheels to bolt on also. Going to go for some R33 GTR wheels for the short time. If anyone has some in Perth that they are looking to offload early next year, let me know.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  21. #81
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Quote Originally Posted by starion13 View Post
    willwood pedal boxes have good options for what you are looking to do.- correct ratios and M/C options. HTH
    Yeah, I used the Willwood hanging pedal box in the Sunny, did the job well. Not sure if they will fit in the S15 though???
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  22. #82
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy San View Post
    I'd hold off on buying anything until the new pedalbox wording comes out next year. Floor mount boxes will be an option as well.
    Hey Andy..... Looks like they couldn't get their shit together and get the wording approved in time for next year. I'll just leave the whole thing for now and tackle it at a later date.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  23. #83
    Registered User 3sgem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by Datman View Post
    Hey Andy..... Looks like they couldn't get their shit together and get the wording approved in time for next year. I'll just leave the whole thing for now and tackle it at a later date.
    I wouldn't get excited about the floor mounted pedal boxes happening anytime soon. The problem is that some States are not against them per se but are against the potential floor modifications that maybe required to fit the pedal box. This is because in smaller cars there could be a lot of mods required to the drivers foot-well area to fit a pedal box and such mods are against other IP rules already in place. So potentially another IP can of worms coming up!!!

  24. #84
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Brisvegas
    Posts
    843
    Nice build thread, good to see another S chassis hit the track.

    My S14 is taking forever to get built for Prod Sports over east, work keeps getting in the way, or no money.

    Interesting to see how you have approached the limitations bought about by IPRA rules.

    A good cage will at least let you tie in a lot of the suspension to get everything nice and stiff. The cage in mine made a huge difference to overall stiffness of the shell.

    Best thing about these is how cheap a lot of bits are, and the selection of off the shelf bits that will bolt up from other cars.

    For my brakes I'm using Z32 alloy 4 spot calipers for the front with the 298mm rotors and R33 GTR 2 spot calipers and rotors on the back that I got off ebay stupidly cheap and run unboosted with the non ABS 1" master cylinder.

    For 2B Prod Sports I get a lot more freedoms in most areas, but are much more restricted in turbo and manifolds.

    It is fun trying to work out how the rules can be stretched without breaking them.....

  25. #85
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Quote Originally Posted by 3sgem View Post
    I wouldn't get excited about the floor mounted pedal boxes happening anytime soon. The problem is that some States are not against them per se but are against the potential floor modifications that maybe required to fit the pedal box. This is because in smaller cars there could be a lot of mods required to the drivers foot-well area to fit a pedal box and such mods are against other IP rules already in place. So potentially another IP can of worms coming up!!!
    Yeah, I've been around IP for long enough to know that some things take forever to happen (if at all). The potential floor modification should not even be an issue, and is more than likely just some BS reason made up to stop the change. Simply write the rule so that modifying the floor is not allowed, save for mounting holes. If you can't fit the floor mount without having to modify the floor, then you can't do it. Make it so that the pedals need to be within a certain distance from the original pedals when at rest and that also solves the other issue I have heard of people saying that the floor mount will be mounted further back and the drivers seat will end up replacing the back seat of the car. FFS, it's not that hard really. Allow the floor mounts and make it easier and less costly to build cars. We can fit pedal boxes anyway, it's not like it's going to be some massive performance advantage.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  26. #86
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Quote Originally Posted by PXL265 View Post
    Nice build thread, good to see another S chassis hit the track.

    My S14 is taking forever to get built for Prod Sports over east, work keeps getting in the way, or no money.

    Interesting to see how you have approached the limitations bought about by IPRA rules.

    A good cage will at least let you tie in a lot of the suspension to get everything nice and stiff. The cage in mine made a huge difference to overall stiffness of the shell.

    Best thing about these is how cheap a lot of bits are, and the selection of off the shelf bits that will bolt up from other cars.

    For my brakes I'm using Z32 alloy 4 spot calipers for the front with the 298mm rotors and R33 GTR 2 spot calipers and rotors on the back that I got off ebay stupidly cheap and run unboosted with the non ABS 1" master cylinder.

    For 2B Prod Sports I get a lot more freedoms in most areas, but are much more restricted in turbo and manifolds.

    It is fun trying to work out how the rules can be stretched without breaking them.....
    Thanks dude. I'm looking forward to getting it closer to IP spec and seeing what we can do on a small/modest budget. Part of me wishes had just gone the R32 Alloy 4 pots like you have, would have been much easier and less costly, but I think the 326mm rotor with the Brembo's should be a pretty good set-up. How do you find the brake pedal without the booster? I'm going for the bigger 17/16' master cylinder, some have said that it should be ok un-boosted? I'm not so sure how it will work with the pedal ratio though?

    I've been out of IP for about 6 years, and there have been some changes to the rules (shock horror) since then, so I have a little bit of catching up to do, but the basics are still the same. The initial challenges I think we face are :

    1. Setting up the rear end
    2. Getting it as light as possible
    3. Build a driveline that can take the torque, while using a 6 speed gearbox (that's not a hollinger).
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  27. #87
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Brisvegas
    Posts
    843
    I haven't got that far to worry about what the brake feel is yet..... The car is still a roller, but hopefully will get some work done to it over January. Planning to get the steering rack rebuilt and what PS system to run, full electric or just electric pump, suspension finally bolted in properly and wheels pointing in the right direction, seat mounted and basically ready to splash some paint in and on it.

    I have been told the brake pedal should be fine with an unboosted 1" master with the calipers I am running. The last race car had an unboosted 1" master to run 4 pot wilwood dynalites and 2 pot volvo/peugot rear calipers and the pedal feel was great.

    Not sure on the rules you get to work with, but for 2B, if I can't get the car under 1100kg ready to race I have done a pretty piss poor job, especially as I have stripped the car completely, including all the deadening off the floor and from underneath, running acrylic windows except for the windscreen and replacing the hanging panels with plastic.

    I am also running 18x9" wheels to run 240/640/18 or 240/650/18 slicks.

    I chose the series 1 S14 as a straight shell came up for dirt cheap and nobody wants s1 panels or headlights so they are cheap to buy spares.

    The cost of bolt on go fast bits is scary cheap, cost me around $600 for front and rear adjustable suspension arms to replace the standard ones.

    The six speed Z33/34 box should be fine for what you want. With my car I am restricted to using the standard turbo and manifolds so I can get away with the standard 5 speed, and at the price they go for, they are almost consumables, though I may look for a RB25 5 speed, which for me will be unbreakable in my car.

  28. #88
    Improved Production Racer Datman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Perth from 23rd Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,701
    Quote Originally Posted by PXL265 View Post
    I haven't got that far to worry about what the brake feel is yet..... The car is still a roller, but hopefully will get some work done to it over January. Planning to get the steering rack rebuilt and what PS system to run, full electric or just electric pump, suspension finally bolted in properly and wheels pointing in the right direction, seat mounted and basically ready to splash some paint in and on it.

    I have been told the brake pedal should be fine with an unboosted 1" master with the calipers I am running. The last race car had an unboosted 1" master to run 4 pot wilwood dynalites and 2 pot volvo/peugot rear calipers and the pedal feel was great.

    Not sure on the rules you get to work with, but for 2B, if I can't get the car under 1100kg ready to race I have done a pretty piss poor job, especially as I have stripped the car completely, including all the deadening off the floor and from underneath, running acrylic windows except for the windscreen and replacing the hanging panels with plastic.

    I am also running 18x9" wheels to run 240/640/18 or 240/650/18 slicks.

    I chose the series 1 S14 as a straight shell came up for dirt cheap and nobody wants s1 panels or headlights so they are cheap to buy spares.

    The cost of bolt on go fast bits is scary cheap, cost me around $600 for front and rear adjustable suspension arms to replace the standard ones.

    The six speed Z33/34 box should be fine for what you want. With my car I am restricted to using the standard turbo and manifolds so I can get away with the standard 5 speed, and at the price they go for, they are almost consumables, though I may look for a RB25 5 speed, which for me will be unbreakable in my car.
    I too am aiming for under 1100kg's (without driver). Last time I weighed the car it was 1,158kg's. But I still have the sound deadener to remove and the new 17x9" wheels will be much lighter (at least 20kg's) also than the old 18x9.5" heavies that were previously on there. I have also removed the ABS system and the heavy battery is being replaced with a lightweight unit. I do still need to get a cage in the car though, so I will be looking at every possible option to get it lighter.

    I'll certainly look at the Z33/34 box, but will also need to consider the weight. I'm not restricted by what brand of gearbox we use, it just needs to be able to cope with the torque produced by the retsitcted turbo engine. It seems funny to me that you can change all your suspension arms in a "Production Sports" class, yet we have to run standard arms in "Improved Production" - not to mention the plastic panels & acrylic glass replacements you get to use. On the flip side, we do get to play with the engine & turbo set-up, even though we do have to run a 36mm restrictor.
    When the flag drops...............the bullshit stops!
    Go Hard..........or Go Home!

    VW Amarok - Daily
    2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited) - Nopics
    2001 S15 - IPRA Build
    VE SS Redline Ute - SOLD
    SR20DET Powered IPRA Datsun Sunny = 400hp @ Wheels - SOLD

  29. #89
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Brisvegas
    Posts
    843
    When I first got the shell I was looking at trying to build a car to suit both Prod Sports and IPRA, and even looking at 2F and IPRA it was too much of a compromise where it would not have worked for either, so went with 2B as being less restictive, would be cheaper in the long run to build and run with the extra freedoms allowed.

  30. #90
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Roleystone
    Posts
    3,289
    Quote Originally Posted by Datman View Post
    I too am aiming for under 1100kg's (without driver). Last time I weighed the car it was 1,158kg's. But I still have the sound deadener to remove and the new 17x9" wheels will be much lighter (at least 20kg's) also than the old 18x9.5" heavies that were previously on there. I have also removed the ABS system and the heavy battery is being replaced with a lightweight unit. I do still need to get a cage in the car though, so I will be looking at every possible option to get it lighter.

    I'll certainly look at the Z33/34 box, but will also need to consider the weight. I'm not restricted by what brand of gearbox we use, it just needs to be able to cope with the torque produced by the retsitcted turbo engine. It seems funny to me that you can change all your suspension arms in a "Production Sports" class, yet we have to run standard arms in "Improved Production" - not to mention the plastic panels & acrylic glass replacements you get to use. On the flip side, we do get to play with the engine & turbo set-up, even though we do have to run a 36mm restrictor.
    Go the same way with the box we are, Samsonas, Higher torque rating than a Holinger and as Holinger are all geared for torqueless low comp 5.0ltr better ratios..
    Cost more but spend once.
    GURU ENGINEERING PTY LTD

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •