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Thread: RX7 6L Wannabe Sports Sedan

  1. #61
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Progress has slowed while I've had a big work project on. The engine shop has disassembled the LS and found that it didn't have everything I'd paid the original builder for. Not much I can do about that now but I purchased a few things and dropped them off on Friday, now it just needs pushrod lengths measured and ordered. Final build will be

    Mahle Powerpak pistons
    Scat Pro Sport H-beam rods
    SRE Cam 237/250@0.050" .613/.613 113LC
    Rollmaster double-row timing chain
    Powerbond balancer & ARP bolts
    ARP head bolts
    Lunati tie-bar lifters
    Smith Bros trunnion bushing upgrade
    Manley dual valve springs
    Moroso electric water pump
    LS3 injectors
    LS3 coilpacks
    Improved Racing crank scraper & windage tray
    New bearings, balanced, reground & polished crank, etc





    For a while I've been trying to sort the throttle cable. The OBP pedal box has the attachment point below the pivot down near the floor, which is nice because it just straight pulls on the throttle cable. Problem is that there's not enough room for the stainless sheath to mount & turn 90 degrees in that space, so I sourced a wire sheave from a boating shop and my auto elec made up a mount.



    All seemed good and we hooked it up while the engine was in the car. The problem I didn't foresee is that the pedal at 100% only pulled the throttle open about 50% The attachment point couldn't be moved any further away from the pivot as it's almost against the floor already, and even removing the pedal stops I couldn't move my ankle far enough to get full throttle body opening.

    So many hours and ideas later I came up with a new solution using a bell crank, ball joint linkage, and a hole drilled in the back of the pedal.I can't test it out until I get the engine back in but fingers crossed it works out.





    My fabricator accidentally earthed through my original throttle cable while working on the exhaust and fried it, so I cut off the melted section and re-purposed it as the external battery cut-off pull




    FDs front wheel wells don't swallow the wide wheels and tyres too well, with full contact at the front on turn in and very little clearance at the rear on turn out.



    I pulled out the grinder today to make some room.


  2. #62
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    Need more updates!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Rotary Mazda's??? Nah mate I don't know anything about them.

  3. #63
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Well you certainly made some nice room there! This thread makes me feel better about cutting the shit out of the floor on my FD.

    Any thoughts on sheet metal sump? I was nervous about the structural requirements of it so stayed with a cast pan and improved racing trap door inserts

  4. #64
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I'm not really concerned about the oil pan not bolting to the bellhousing, there's so many cars out there running similar pans without issue. I have a filler plate to stop the lower portion of the flywheel and clutch being exposed too. If the Holley 302-2 oil pan & Improved Racing baffles been available when I was shopping for one I probably would have gone that way. Mainly for the additional front clearance it gives right over the steering rack, which would have fixed the issue I describe below.

    I picked up the re-assembled engine last night so it's now ready to run. Few more pics of upgrades.




    Back in Post 55 I showed the extended tie rod adaptors I fitted to reduce bump-steer. Even still, I could easily observe a significant amount of toe-out on droop. Since I can't get the ends any lower I tried spacing up the rack while the engine was out, and 9mm of washers eliminated any observable toe-change (even at 4" droop which is well past what I'll get on the track). Problem is that I only have about 3mm of rack-to-sump clearance currently.

    I dropped the engine back in tonight and have worked out 2 options:

    1. Notch the front 75mm of the oil pan. It's around 1.8"/46mm deep in that area and I estimate there's about 8mm clearance currently between the oil pickup tube and the sheet metal. This is the solution I'd planned to do hence the 3/4 length windage tray.
    2. Drop the gearbox mount by 6mm which lifts the front of the engine enough to clear the rack. But only by about 1mm so I might need to lose another 1-2mm of rack lift. It improves driveshaft angle by a little but also pushes the throttle body hard up against the bonnet (which is only thin fibreglass, I could cut away all of the the second skin).

    I'll need to decide tomorrow so I can keep things rolling.

  5. #65
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    If you need any measurements from my car let me know. L98, T56, Samberg kit. It's all installed and on the hoist.

    What tailshaft angles are you getting? Mine ended up a little low (just under 2 deg by memory) but in the right direction so not all bad

  6. #66
    Registered User peal's Avatar
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    Want for this is so high. Amazing build mate.

  7. #67
    LS7 Prius = Proper HYBRID Walt Kowalski's Avatar
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    Great stuff. Keep the updates flowing. I'm not a fan of Tie Bar Lifters these days. Had one let go at around 260kph. Messy.
    Logical debate beats name calling any day. My Badges Of Honour so far in PF: Racist, Bigot, Islamaphobe, Numpty, Moron, Far Right Wing Nationalist, Far Fight Wing Fascist, "raving fucking lunatic", "dumb" & climate "denier". AND they are just SOME of the pathetic tags that I've been labelled by SOME here. HINT: Those labels are signs that the accusers have lost to logical debate.

    Maybe it's time for them to check some facts. Here's a good starting point: http://www.mostdamagingwikileaks.com

  8. #68
    LS7 Prius = Proper HYBRID Walt Kowalski's Avatar
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    BTW where did you learn such a broad range of skills?
    Logical debate beats name calling any day. My Badges Of Honour so far in PF: Racist, Bigot, Islamaphobe, Numpty, Moron, Far Right Wing Nationalist, Far Fight Wing Fascist, "raving fucking lunatic", "dumb" & climate "denier". AND they are just SOME of the pathetic tags that I've been labelled by SOME here. HINT: Those labels are signs that the accusers have lost to logical debate.

    Maybe it's time for them to check some facts. Here's a good starting point: http://www.mostdamagingwikileaks.com

  9. #69
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    After thinking about it today I think I'll notch the oil pan. Otherwise I've only got 1mm of clearance top and bottom so no scope to make any engine position changes.

    Quote Originally Posted by lukevl View Post
    If you need any measurements from my car let me know. L98, T56, Samberg kit. It's all installed and on the hoist.

    What tailshaft angles are you getting? Mine ended up a little low (just under 2 deg by memory) but in the right direction so not all bad
    Cheers. I saw elsewhere recommended output shaft-to-tunnel measurements but it's hard to compare since mine is a sheet metal tunnel. I think my angles are just under 3 degrees. Which oil pan are you using?

    Quote Originally Posted by peal View Post
    Want for this is so high. Amazing build mate.
    Cheers! Having done plenty of bodgy work in the past this time I'm following the "do it once, do it right" principle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Walt Kowalski View Post
    Great stuff. Keep the updates flowing. I'm not a fan of Tie Bar Lifters these days. Had one let go at around 260kph. Messy.
    I haven't heard of many failures but the original engine builder ordered these ones so hopefully they're rated for my lift and duration.

    Quote Originally Posted by Walt Kowalski View Post
    BTW where did you learn such a broad range of skills?
    I'm honestly just learning this all as I go. Although I've had imports for about 15 years I've not done much myself mechanically beyond swapping coilovers and doing oil changes. I'm not particularly handy but I am very good with Google

    It's a pretty slow process doing everything myself. As I was putting the engine in last night I chuckled to myself thinking about the US TV shows I watch where there's 2 or 3 guys carefully guiding an engine into place, while mine is bashing against the firewall and tunnel It's all made easier with a good range of tools, hoist, engine crane, press and CNC.

  10. #70
    LS7 Prius = Proper HYBRID Walt Kowalski's Avatar
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    My tie bar lifters were Morel 2009 early spec - so maybe that was the issue. Sonny wanted me to go back to OEM LS7. Yours might be OK then.
    Logical debate beats name calling any day. My Badges Of Honour so far in PF: Racist, Bigot, Islamaphobe, Numpty, Moron, Far Right Wing Nationalist, Far Fight Wing Fascist, "raving fucking lunatic", "dumb" & climate "denier". AND they are just SOME of the pathetic tags that I've been labelled by SOME here. HINT: Those labels are signs that the accusers have lost to logical debate.

    Maybe it's time for them to check some facts. Here's a good starting point: http://www.mostdamagingwikileaks.com

  11. #71
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Neil I'm using the F Body GM oil pan. I got it through improved racing with their whole kit. Good clearance to the samberg subframe.

    I used a laser pointer and geometry to measure pinion angles. Worked a treat

  12. #72
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I only had a cheap digital level with laser so I'm dubious of the accuracy, but I'm also at the recommended 5.5" from the output shaft to underside of the tunnel (which is roughly the same height as factory).

    Tonight I chopped out as much as I could without interfering with the oil pickup tube so I'll drop it off for welding tomorrow.

    Last edited by neil_se; 04-05-17 at 10:40 PM.

  13. #73
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    I cable tied the laser pointer to the output shaft of the gearbox and cable tied the button on. Then spun the shaft and adjusted the pointer position until it was close to concentric. I could then mark the actual axis point on the diff flange and measure how far below the diff axis it was. I did the same with the diff and used geometry to get the angle. I feel it was quite accurate.

    I ended up shimming the nose of the diff up by 6mm and all was good.

  14. #74
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Are you using the Samberg diff brace too?

  15. #75
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I've had the headers ceramic coated while the engine is out. I may get the rest of the exhaust done later if cabin heat is still a problem.



  16. #76
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    I'm using the Samberg diff mount for the Ford 8.8. I have the aluminium case 8.8 (he wanted to sell me an iron case WTF drag race batman) with 3.55 gears, Torsen centre, and the Driveshaft shop axles and porsche style CVs.

    Lovely headers now you've re-made them I'm not quite baller enough for ceramic coating I don't think. I was just going to wrap what I needed to (near the fuel lines etc) and use heat shields. Where did you get them coated?

  17. #77
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Where did you get the media blasting and priming? My GTR is getting stripped over Xmas hopefully.
    Jason Broadhurst

    Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

  18. #78
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukevl View Post
    I'm using the Samberg diff mount for the Ford 8.8. I have the aluminium case 8.8 (he wanted to sell me an iron case WTF drag race batman) with 3.55 gears, Torsen centre, and the Driveshaft shop axles and porsche style CVs.

    Lovely headers now you've re-made them I'm not quite baller enough for ceramic coating I don't think. I was just going to wrap what I needed to (near the fuel lines etc) and use heat shields. Where did you get them coated?
    I'd like to get a lower ratio but there's not many options with the stock diff. Perhaps I'll just need to launch in 2nd Did you get the whole diff through Samberg? When I looked it was just too difficult to source here.

    The headers are even more of pain in the arse to handle since original fabricator decided to cut each pipe into a separate flange. If they weren't I probably would have just wrapped them although from the tests I could find the coating is a lot more effective. Competition Coatings in Archerfield did them, was only $385.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Broadhurst View Post
    Where did you get the media blasting and priming? My GTR is getting stripped over Xmas hopefully.
    A guy up here in Toowoomba did it. I'm not sure what his business name is but I've got his name and phone number if you need. Every time I hammer on the car dust still pours out of every crevasse, I can't believe how much gets into every corner.
    Last edited by neil_se; 15-05-17 at 08:38 PM.

  19. #79
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I got the notched oil pan back, refitted it to the engine, and dropped the engine back in on the weekend. The clearance was still too tight to fit the Samberg rack spacers which is what I expected, but I was able to machine 5mm off the thickness and now the rack fits with about 4mm clearance.





    The throttle linkage that I made worked perfectly so that the throttle pedal and throttle body both get to 100% at the same time.

  20. #80
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I was told the LS1 coilpacks I had are crap compared to the newer ones so I bought a later model set. New problem is that they don't nearly clear the breather fitting, where the LS1 bracket just needed a little trimming.



    So I made some from 3mm ally that rotates them 10 degrees and positions them down a bit. The original harness still attaches the same as the factory and I've used inverted rivnuts as spacers and fixings, whereas the originals are bent and tapped.




    The LHS is much the same but with 2 different bolt holes. They're nice and rigid but a bit chunkier than I'd like. Now that I know all the bolt positions and clearances are ok I might do a slightly trimmed back version next time I'm cutting aluminium.

    Last edited by neil_se; 20-05-17 at 12:02 PM.

  21. #81
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    Nice. Overkill. But very nice
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  22. #82
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Yeah it is a bit. I wasn't really sure how rigid it was going to turn out since the factory one is just over 3mm thick steel.

    When lifting the steering rack I didn't consider the effect on the already tight shaft to header clearance. Now it well and truly collects it


  23. #83
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    Welcome to ls swap issues. Can you cut the rack mounts off and move over?
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  24. #84
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I think I'll just get that pipe modified, there's plenty of space above and on the engine side of it.

  25. #85
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I had the car at Goleby's this week for a bit more fabrication.

    Header pipe modified for steering clearance




    4" intake pipe with K&N carbon oval filter




    Catch can with AN10 push lock lines




    Starting to look very complete

    Last edited by neil_se; 27-05-17 at 05:58 PM.

  26. #86
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    Saw the car the other day at golebys, absolute weapon!
    Fantastic work and the attention to detail is unreal for a track car
    BeamTina

  27. #87
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Ha a mate tagged me in the Goleby post on FB of that intake pipe. I'm currently struggling with the shit figment of the samberg intake and radiator

  28. #88
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slain View Post
    Saw the car the other day at golebys, absolute weapon!
    Fantastic work and the attention to detail is unreal for a track car
    Small world! I'm real proud of how everything is turning out.

    Quote Originally Posted by lukevl View Post
    Ha a mate tagged me in the Goleby post on FB of that intake pipe. I'm currently struggling with the shit figment of the samberg intake and radiator
    I've heard that about the Samberg kit. I just couldn't justify the expense for what he sells and his communication is terrible. My 4" intake uses every mm of space between the radiator and bonnet. Actually there wasn't enough space to begin with, the top support on the radiator has been cut and folded, and the second skin has been cut out of the bonnet. The supporting bar that the bonnet normal catches on is gone as well.

    I could have replicated the layout of the Samberg kit but I particularly wanted my radiator to lay forward so that the air passing through is more likely to exit through the bonnet rather than under the car. Once I've sorted out a front bumper support and splitter/undertray then I'll bend up an intake shroud.

  29. #89
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    It's been another few frustrating weeks. Took about 2 weeks to get the car booked back in with the auto elec to wire up the last few sensors and inputs. Finally got everything powered up



    Then dropped the car off at my mechanic. They couldn't get to it for about a fortnight and have just started checking things late last week. So far
    - Tiny battery isn't good for much more than a few minutes usage
    - Filled all the brake and clutch fluids but the banjo fitting just hits each master preventing a seal, so fluids leaked out overnight



    - Ignition lead boots hit on headers. I might need to find some with an angled boot.
    - Header pipe that's been remade 3 times is now too close to the starter
    - Starter is too tight on the flywheel, but there's no room to shim because of the above



    I'm hoping more shims will fix the flywheel clearance and a BFH will fix the header clearance to avoid buying another starter. I just want to finally start the fucking thing.

  30. #90
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    I have the ceramic Accel 90deg leads which have been awesome.

    Starter is weird as I would of thought it would pivot at the end and move gear away from teeth

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

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