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Thread: 2012 1m

  1. #31
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    FYI 1M downpipes have different part numbers to the 135i/335i N54 downpipes. The cats aren't as restrictive to the 135i/335i cats (I used to have a 135i when the 1M was released so I followed the cars discoveries/developments closely).

    But yeah, catless downpipes and N54 midpipes seem to be the go for a power setup that retains cats. If you want noise-only get N55 midpipes (no cats), which sell for $350ish used, $450ish new. N54 midpipes are worth $100-150 max.
    Kebabhunter

  2. #32
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Yeah same conclusion I came to especially since used N55 pipes are not worth it. I offered $450 to one guy last September and once again in Jan ($500), he wants $650. I understand they're NLM but it's not a special OEM part and especially not worth it when they aren't much more from the dealer anyway.
    The best option would be wrecker car - the narrow year range has made it a 4 month search so far. Another option was N54 midpipes with cats and resonator deleted. At this point I just decided, fuck it, catless downpipes it is despite the higher flow 1M pipes. Throttle response, lowered WGDC, EGT should be worth it

    Wagner: 2.5" throughout, easier fit with more clearance. Not sure if it's the picture but doesn't look mandrel bent in some sections. Tabs to mount to drivetrain/chassis which should ease the load on the turbine housing and overall assembly. Common cause for cracked manifolds is insufficient support.
    AR Design: 3" with nice taper to 2.5", no OEM style tabs. I can't weld, so $$ (and the fucking around involved) to get it done.
    VRSF: Cheap, will probably rattle and drive me insane after TC1 coating is applied. Poor taper to 2.5". No OEM style tabs.

  3. #33
    Weeeeee XXX19X's Avatar
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  4. #34
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Off to car sales I go
    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  5. #35
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    I like the discrete theme on that one. Going for the same thing except the badge. Got a sample sheet of 3M Vinyl i'll try on the side indicators next week. Hopefully it's enough.

    >"You know what you don't see there?"
    "No carbon roof!"

    lol

    I'm not sure about best BMW of all time, but it definitely is fun and demands your attention/focus plus has a little bit of character which I thought was missing from newer cars. Ie. I still carry basic tools in the boot should that throttle body pipe slip off.

  6. #36
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Wagner downpipes are in after sitting for 9 months. More aftermarket pos that doesn't really fit perfectly.

    Pretty much sounds like this car:


    Turbos whistles as soon as you get on it in the low rev range with the windows cracked/down. Might be because of RHD.
    Took it for a run through Akuna Bay/West Head and got caught in the rain. Needs rear grip. Fuck knows how other people get traction in these pushing at least 30% more power.

  7. #37
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    Nice, not bad. Could do with a PE mod
    Kebabhunter

  8. #38
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    PE Mod? If a local 1M backbox comes up for sale I might take a grinder to it. The noise at the moment is decent. The whoosh noises in low RPM is due to some function called "lean spool" in the ECU.

    There's some public XDFs but they're severely gimped. Ie a conglomerate of tuners (actually good that they work together and pick eachothers brains) have much more definitions. But the public releases are 9-12mths behind, it's a joke really.
    An example I asked for is this: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...postcount=7278
    And the response? Oh, we're on it (Awesome!) but we're figuring out how to add easy checkboxes for joe blow and we're also not going to do a pull request on the XDFs repo on github (...wtf).

    Anyway enough with this negativity, onto what I can do in TunerPro.
    Flashed a base map for myself, disabled cat efficiency codes, adjusted the torque request map for M-mode throttle.

    Short-term:
    Play with VVT(VANOS) settings and retard the intake cam a bit especially in the 5000-6000 region.
    Get a better understanding of "Overboost" tables. It seems like it does nothing over 4500rpm (or 5000) which is logical since peak HP doesn't change as per the manufacturer specs. Extending this moderate pressure target (14.5psi) to at least 6000rpm would feel good and not diesel-like.
    Log fuel trims and add fuel where I need to as a result of the catless downpipes.

    Long-term: Going to buy IDA and get shit done myself. Tables are all good and stuff, but to really understand them you have to understand the possible nested functions. Being a nerd in my daily duties should help with this. I also can't stand Americans mixing imperial and metric. Celsius for some tables. Fahrenheit for majority of others, conversion to lb/ft. Fucking swedes.

  9. #39
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    The one day I decide to drive it to a client, this happens in their carpark:



    Anyway, could be worse.

    Started getting base maps ready:
    Car runs cooler driving around for 45min and no longer pegs 120C oil temps even in Sydney heat today and yesterday. PWM controlled waterpump
    Intake cam retarded about 5-8degrees works surprisingly well. With a little more fuel, it's noticeable in the 5000-6000rpm range.

    Noticed the used metal throttle body pipe leaks from the MAP flange while I was cleaning out the threads with acetone. The retard I bought it from not only stripped the thread but tightened the bolt so much or used a longer than supplied bolt, his managed to penetrate the pipe. Might be leak-free and all good once screwed in, I hope so.

  10. #40
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Self tuning going okay:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Since fixed the load/boost drop from 5500-5700, and realised I had 135i VANOS exhaust cam settings. Reverted back to 1M. Noticeably quicker and now have clutch slip when banging gears only which is odd. Almost as if the clutch is disengaged very slowly. Maybe it's the CDV or maybe the DME is also closing the throttle to save what's left of it. Who knows, need logs.

    Last thing sitting in the cupboard since March left to install is the Wagner EVO1 FMIC.

    Shitpost by another competitor:
    http://www.mosselmanturbo.com/wp-con..._Mosselman.pdf
    They show a 5.29psi pressure drop at approx 380g/s (your typical Stage 2 tune) and worse than OEM.
    Wagner says 2.5psi @ 240g/s but better than OEM:


    For me it was between the Mishimoto, Forge, Wagner (Bar/Plate) since they all reuse the OEM quick disconnect o-ringed connections. I'm not cutting up this car. If it was a 135i, I'd do otherwise. After looking at the Wagner several times in person, I've asked them the possibility to make me a Evo1 Comp (Tube/Fin) with the OEM quick disconnects. No idea why they don't offer this in the first place. All they seem to do is chop the cast endtank, prep for welding, put it in a jig and weld on CNC'd billet OEM style fittings. Slightly lower pressure drop and 2.5kg less weight would be welcome. Meanwhile I'm still 50/50 installing this and I'll probably only do it after some more logging and a new clutch.

  11. #41
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Went to SMP South today with camber plates, Cup2s, pads, new tune.

    Hit limp once and overboost once. N54 is the best turbo motor by BMW. Didn't know you had to mash the start/stop button 3 times to restart while rolling. Oh well.

    A sample of the ridiculousness of this car while my pre-turnbull internet uploads the rest.


    It's also retarded under braking. The bite is good enough to unsettle the rear end everytime. Might need to get an actual alignment.
    Think I ran this with 0 toe all round, -2.1 front camber,-1.8 (lol) rear camber, some sort of increased front caster because I goofed installing the strut back.
    Last edited by gmx; 11-02-18 at 06:29 PM.

  12. #42
    Registered User AndyMac's Avatar
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    Look forward to seeing this thing in April.

    Who will you get to do the alignment?
    Panzer Wagen

    M-Cars follow the idea that power should be felt & not seen

  13. #43
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    ^ Likewise!

    Nelsonian101 recommended East Coast Suspension and I'll head there next Monday morning.
    I'll adjust the caster back to neutral on the weekend. So it won't be a true before/after but fingers crossed he can work his magic to get it a bit more stable.
    Taking it slow, learning and identifying "problems" with the car and me before throwing bits at it.

  14. #44
    Little engine that could. itsnotagsr's Avatar
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    One of these (relatively) cheap on carsales. Seems to be reasonably priced compared to the usual dreamers. Soooooo much want.
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower." - Mark Donahue Penske Porsche 917

    "In Japan we no give fark for Subaru" - Trust Japan Technical Director
    (TM - AVENGE)

    "You can never have enough power. I remember when we had Group B cars... THEN we had enough power!"
    Juha Kankkunen - Rally of Argentina '02

  15. #45
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Surprised that one hasn't been snapped up tbh.

    Only thing remotely off putting is the missing oem wheels.

  16. #46
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    If he is closer. Pete @ Road&Race at Rydelmere... Know's BMW's well. Need to book and allow a day though.

    Yeah, bit of a dream car of mine the 1M, be more of a polisher for me though, I reckon these things will be worth a mint in 10 years. I'd 100% put it into the "CSL, E30 M3, E46 CSL, M Coupe Clownshoe" type bracket.
    Panzer Wagen

    M-Cars follow the idea that power should be felt & not seen

  17. #47
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Mine certainly isn't perfect, the exposed guards get hammered with fine chips easily. A lot of owners have the car repsrayed then completely wrapped/PPF'd. Bits of vynil and tape will do until I put it into that bracket
    Re the black one on carsales. Service light is on, except the ad says it has full history. Still worth checking out.

  18. #48
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    After 3 alignments, I have a feeling the rear eccentric bolts aren't holding. First and third time the "before" value has been 7, and 8mm toe out respectively. Second time, I asked the mob doing it to 0 it out, either wasn't done, done wrong, or backed out - on both sides. Haven't heard of any M3 or E8x/E9x owners experiencing the same thing. Anyhow, Explains how it drives.
    Ended up with -3mm total toe which seems to be a lot by internet speak but we'll see. So far so good, and couldn't be happier with ECS.
    Also, seems like the allen caster screws on the camber plates use 5.5mm sockets. Why? Swedes...



    Best lap was 1:06.4 during session 2.

  19. #49
    Registered User BreaksMyWallet's Avatar
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    Yikes, 8mm of rear toe out?! Apparently these things are pretty bitey anyway, so I'm impressed you managed to keep it pointing in vaguely the right direction.

  20. #50
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Heh, have to say I couldn't do that all day. Electronic aids helped keep it on the black stuff after a few "bigger" ones like the one above.
    One of the boring 1:06.4 later in the day with "MDM" on.

    Heaps of room for improvement.

    Couldn't check torque on the toe bolts yet since the 1M/M3 toe arms use triple square bolts. Non Ms are normal hex, another wtf moment. Marked them with a sharpie for the time being.

    Rear alignment before:
    RL/RR:
    Camber: -1.6 / -2.16
    Toe: -4 / -4.5

    After:
    -2.16
    +3mm total
    Front is -2.83 with -2.5mm total toe.

    Street impressions of the new alignment are awesome, it feels as if I'm on OEM 250kw map and the front end is pointier.
    Lesson learned, $65 alignment at black donut retailer probably means "yeah the totals are in spec for an E87 118i so i'm not going to do shit"

  21. #51
    Registered User AndyMac's Avatar
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    Take it to Pete.

    He'll fix it from moving out of setting if you tell him thats what its doing.

  22. #52
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Getting more and more comfortable driving this thing with no aids on standard suspension and tyre sizes + camber plates. Constantly playing with the throttle map helps with that. OEM M mode throttle map is plain retarded and way too difficult to modulate - I'd say impossible.

    There's a knock in the rear left corner that has been driving me nuts since my second ever session back in Feb:

    Skip to 5:40 for Porsche GT4 flyby porn

    It started when I ran offline and picked up a bunch of garbage. Pretty much took apart that whole corner except top shock mounts and didn't see anything obvious. Dave/ECS also didn't note anything abnormal when he test drove while he was doing his thing (alignment). It also felt fine to me after I heard it so I kept driving. I'm starting to think it's the TPMS sensor inside the wheel fallen off. Except no TPMS alerts German shit strikes again.

    Pedestrian outlap+warmup lap at Wakefield:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhZLMibQXDY
    And the fantasic M viscolock diff at 0:05. It's interesting how this circuit really exposes the weaknesses of this car. Ran into Nelsonian101 there and his feedback and generosity is awesome.

    This happened after I spun:


    Modern cars without space savers or spares eh?

    Pics from the day:



    The obligatory, "But it's not a S engine!" pic:


    New Marulan circuit is awesome, couldn't crack 59s though. Unfortunately no video.

    Probably do a few skidpan or wet circuit days as I have trouble with gathering up more than an armful of lock sometimes.

    And met this dude in Japan:


    He had an akrapovic cat back. 3 months later and I can't resist anymore. About time to tick the Ti exhaust thing. About 600 euro cheaper without CF tips. I'll take that (axle back).
    At this point it's pretty much like a E9x M3 but worse due to the short wheelbase. The front is soft, the rear subframe is attached with slightly stiffer rubber mounts but not solid like the F8x and E92 GTS. Should go much faster, and importantly, more consistent with that stuff sorted out. Consistent = fun.

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