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Thread: 2012 1m

  1. #31
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    FYI 1M downpipes have different part numbers to the 135i/335i N54 downpipes. The cats aren't as restrictive to the 135i/335i cats (I used to have a 135i when the 1M was released so I followed the cars discoveries/developments closely).

    But yeah, catless downpipes and N54 midpipes seem to be the go for a power setup that retains cats. If you want noise-only get N55 midpipes (no cats), which sell for $350ish used, $450ish new. N54 midpipes are worth $100-150 max.
    Kebabhunter

  2. #32
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Yeah same conclusion I came to especially since used N55 pipes are not worth it. I offered $450 to one guy last September and once again in Jan ($500), he wants $650. I understand they're NLM but it's not a special OEM part and especially not worth it when they aren't much more from the dealer anyway.
    The best option would be wrecker car - the narrow year range has made it a 4 month search so far. Another option was N54 midpipes with cats and resonator deleted. At this point I just decided, fuck it, catless downpipes it is despite the higher flow 1M pipes. Throttle response, lowered WGDC, EGT should be worth it

    Wagner: 2.5" throughout, easier fit with more clearance. Not sure if it's the picture but doesn't look mandrel bent in some sections. Tabs to mount to drivetrain/chassis which should ease the load on the turbine housing and overall assembly. Common cause for cracked manifolds is insufficient support.
    AR Design: 3" with nice taper to 2.5", no OEM style tabs. I can't weld, so $$ (and the fucking around involved) to get it done.
    VRSF: Cheap, will probably rattle and drive me insane after TC1 coating is applied. Poor taper to 2.5". No OEM style tabs.

  3. #33
    Weeeeee XXX19X's Avatar
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  4. #34
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Off to car sales I go
    DJ's don't need sigs

  5. #35
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    I like the discrete theme on that one. Going for the same thing except the badge. Got a sample sheet of 3M Vinyl i'll try on the side indicators next week. Hopefully it's enough.

    >"You know what you don't see there?"
    "No carbon roof!"

    lol

    I'm not sure about best BMW of all time, but it definitely is fun and demands your attention/focus plus has a little bit of character which I thought was missing from newer cars. Ie. I still carry basic tools in the boot should that throttle body pipe slip off.

  6. #36
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Wagner downpipes are in after sitting for 9 months. More aftermarket pos that doesn't really fit perfectly.

    Pretty much sounds like this car:


    Turbos whistles as soon as you get on it in the low rev range with the windows cracked/down. Might be because of RHD.
    Took it for a run through Akuna Bay/West Head and got caught in the rain. Needs rear grip. Fuck knows how other people get traction in these pushing at least 30% more power.

  7. #37
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    Nice, not bad. Could do with a PE mod
    Kebabhunter

  8. #38
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    PE Mod? If a local 1M backbox comes up for sale I might take a grinder to it. The noise at the moment is decent. The whoosh noises in low RPM is due to some function called "lean spool" in the ECU.

    There's some public XDFs but they're severely gimped. Ie a conglomerate of tuners (actually good that they work together and pick eachothers brains) have much more definitions. But the public releases are 9-12mths behind, it's a joke really.
    An example I asked for is this: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...postcount=7278
    And the response? Oh, we're on it (Awesome!) but we're figuring out how to add easy checkboxes for joe blow and we're also not going to do a pull request on the XDFs repo on github (...wtf).

    Anyway enough with this negativity, onto what I can do in TunerPro.
    Flashed a base map for myself, disabled cat efficiency codes, adjusted the torque request map for M-mode throttle.

    Short-term:
    Play with VVT(VANOS) settings and retard the intake cam a bit especially in the 5000-6000 region.
    Get a better understanding of "Overboost" tables. It seems like it does nothing over 4500rpm (or 5000) which is logical since peak HP doesn't change as per the manufacturer specs. Extending this moderate pressure target (14.5psi) to at least 6000rpm would feel good and not diesel-like.
    Log fuel trims and add fuel where I need to as a result of the catless downpipes.

    Long-term: Going to buy IDA and get shit done myself. Tables are all good and stuff, but to really understand them you have to understand the possible nested functions. Being a nerd in my daily duties should help with this. I also can't stand Americans mixing imperial and metric. Celsius for some tables. Fahrenheit for majority of others, conversion to lb/ft. Fucking swedes.

  9. #39
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    The one day I decide to drive it to a client, this happens in their carpark:



    Anyway, could be worse.

    Started getting base maps ready:
    Car runs cooler driving around for 45min and no longer pegs 120C oil temps even in Sydney heat today and yesterday. PWM controlled waterpump
    Intake cam retarded about 5-8degrees works surprisingly well. With a little more fuel, it's noticeable in the 5000-6000rpm range.

    Noticed the used metal throttle body pipe leaks from the MAP flange while I was cleaning out the threads with acetone. The retard I bought it from not only stripped the thread but tightened the bolt so much or used a longer than supplied bolt, his managed to penetrate the pipe. Might be leak-free and all good once screwed in, I hope so.

  10. #40
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Self tuning going okay:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Since fixed the load/boost drop from 5500-5700, and realised I had 135i VANOS exhaust cam settings. Reverted back to 1M. Noticeably quicker and now have clutch slip when banging gears only which is odd. Almost as if the clutch is disengaged very slowly. Maybe it's the CDV or maybe the DME is also closing the throttle to save what's left of it. Who knows, need logs.

    Last thing sitting in the cupboard since March left to install is the Wagner EVO1 FMIC.

    Shitpost by another competitor:
    http://www.mosselmanturbo.com/wp-con..._Mosselman.pdf
    They show a 5.29psi pressure drop at approx 380g/s (your typical Stage 2 tune) and worse than OEM.
    Wagner says 2.5psi @ 240g/s but better than OEM:


    For me it was between the Mishimoto, Forge, Wagner (Bar/Plate) since they all reuse the OEM quick disconnect o-ringed connections. I'm not cutting up this car. If it was a 135i, I'd do otherwise. After looking at the Wagner several times in person, I've asked them the possibility to make me a Evo1 Comp (Tube/Fin) with the OEM quick disconnects. No idea why they don't offer this in the first place. All they seem to do is chop the cast endtank, prep for welding, put it in a jig and weld on CNC'd billet OEM style fittings. Slightly lower pressure drop and 2.5kg less weight would be welcome. Meanwhile I'm still 50/50 installing this and I'll probably only do it after some more logging and a new clutch.

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