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Thread: VN Group A Race Car (round 2 of the V8's)

  1. #31
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    Yes.
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

  2. #32
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Thought it might have getrag due to hydraulic clutch..if t5 find what it is out of sell befrore you pop 3rd out the case.

    Buy ls1 do speed rebuild + cam/springs yourself...who cares if it pops grab another as spare lol.
    Dogsballs could point you in right direction for engines etc

    Still got that muncie/t10 thing or has to be 6 speed?
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  3. #33
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    I still have the 4 speed T10, it would be a lot lighter than a 6 speed. I could use it, but like the idea of a modern 6 speed without the linkages.

    True, the LS1's are cheap and plentiful. But I want to finish races. If I get an LS1, I would need to get it rebuilt half decently. I will pay attention to the oil supply as that seems to be the killer. So good baffled sump and accusump. Unless I can get some dry sump at a reasonable price, but doubt the budget will stretch that far.
    Last edited by lightyear; 14-09-16 at 09:50 PM.
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

  4. #34
    Tits! Kroozer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightyear View Post
    I can buy crate L98's, but dont see any crate LS1's.
    Where can you find Crate L98's 6+months ago I couldn't find any in Aus?

  5. #35
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Holmart still got one for 7k also 2 other joints on ebay all in Vic.

    If you want NSW arse reaming try Eagle Autoparts.


    Sounds like whether 2nd hand ls1 or crate engine you're still going to pull it apart for mods.
    Last edited by gtrboyy; 14-09-16 at 10:12 PM.
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  6. #36
    Peoples Champ Fatboy's Avatar
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    Group A had 6 spd so if budget conscious go LS1 & stock 6spd.

    A decent LS1 with cam and heads will easily go north of 300rwkws - more than enough in a VN to be competitive....
    When you go back out there, i want you to hit the pace car....

    # 28 NSW APRA N14.

  7. #37
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    Around 300 is what I am after. LS1 with a rebuild might be the go. But if it's not much more to go 6.0l then I would consider it. Depends what the LS1 ends up costing.
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

  8. #38
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    Ls1 is pushing it though. 6.0 or 6.2 rectangle heads will do jt easy and room to upgrade
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  9. #39
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    I replies to your message btw
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  10. #40
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    Loosely quoting TK the cathedral port heads have a more usable torque band so they are better on a circuit track.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lord_fahrquhar View Post
    The au put the fucking tunnel in with the bullbar. Even Chuck Norris respects the ability of the au coon.

  11. #41
    Peoples Champ Fatboy's Avatar
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    L98 with the right cam and heads will go close to 350rwkw. How fast do you want to go ?

    Me personally i'd save a few extra bucks and go dry sumped L98. But that's just me....
    Last edited by Fatboy; 15-09-16 at 12:08 AM.
    When you go back out there, i want you to hit the pace car....

    # 28 NSW APRA N14.

  12. #42
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogsballs View Post
    I replies to your message btw
    Cheers.
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

  13. #43
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    I sent off an email asking for a price on dry sump to an American company. They have not replied. What is the cost roughly?
    There is a pump and tank on gumtree for $800.
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

  14. #44
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    HPW have 6.0l motors with box and loom for under $5000. Might be the go.
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightyear View Post
    Around 300 is what I am after. LS1 with a rebuild might be the go. But if it's not much more to go 6.0l then I would consider it. Depends what the LS1 ends up costing.
    We've run a crate l98 with cam, springs, pushrods and a home brew 4 stage dry sump for 4 years. 310kw at the rears. Never touched a rod bolt, pulled the intake or a head.

    Can't recommend one highly enough for cheap fasts.

    We also run a Jerico which is great if you can get over your linkage fears. Keep the cam sensible and you won't run out of power between gears.

  16. #46
    Registered User TK's Avatar
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    Wait & save for an LS2, see if you can find one with less than 150,000K's on it.

    Freshen with rings, bearings & ARP rod bolts - open up bearing clearances a little - .0025-.0028" on the mains, .0023-.0026" on the rods, you may need 1/2 a set of HX bearings to get there.
    Use the 243 heads that come with an LS2 - they will not produce as much top end HP as the rectangle port heads, but will produce a stronger TQ curve & be more drivable. A reco on the heads with good valve job, stock valves, mild port work & mill to get to 12.5:1 comp is all that is required.
    Cam around 238/242 on 109 centres - none of this wide lobe centre bullshit.
    You may need to eyebrow the pistons for piston/valve clearance, can be done by hand with a die grinder, or send to SPS & have them do it, or buy new slugs that already have valve reliefs.
    Add good springs, pushrods & trunion upgrade for the rockers.
    Run on E85.

    Ditch the stock intake & use an edelbrock victor jnr with a 4 hole TB - much better transient response & more top end into the bargain.

    Grab one of those cheaper dry sump kits I linked you to, cheapest upgrade you'll do (in that it'll save you building another motor).
    By the time you buy a good sump etc you're 1/2 way to the cost of the basic kit.
    Another option is to buy dry sump bits second hand & make your own - but it never seems to work out much cheaper that way, all the little shit like drive, pump mount, pulleys & lines end up costing more than they would if you bought a kit & it comes out only a little cheaper.

    Almost every failure I've seen in an LS circuit engine has been oiling related, you can build it reliable without a dry sump, but it's not much cheaper, dry sump is good insurance.

    It won't be the cheapest engine, but it will be reliable & fast enough to not be cursing the lack of HP.
    I've got a couple built just like that, they make 320-330rwkw & run hard.
    Last edited by TK; 15-09-16 at 09:21 AM.

  17. #47
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    But thats $20k
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogsballs View Post
    But thats $20k
    This

    8k motor
    2-3 k dry sump
    6-7k gear bag

    Plus all the rest....

    I love club racing, can't handle the dollars.

  19. #49
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    Cheap, fast or reliable. 2/3...

  20. #50
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    My original budget was way under that. I will go with the 6.0l motor.

    I emailed the dry sump guys. But no reply as yet. I can get my sump modified by my mechanic. And buy an acusump. Should work out cheap enough and hopefully work.
    Last edited by lightyear; 15-09-16 at 01:20 PM.
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

  21. #51
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    With the accusump. Just do what vett guys do in the states.

    I pretty much, force oil back into the oil pump, gears.

  22. #52
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
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    My LS drysump was about $900 total
    GURU ENGINEERING PTY LTD

  23. #53
    Tits! Kroozer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtrboyy View Post
    Holmart still got one for 7k also 2 other joints on ebay all in Vic.

    If you want NSW arse reaming try Eagle Autoparts.
    Tried both them and they told me no, and just had a look on Holmart Website again and no good...

  24. #54
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    I saw one on Holmart I thought, or eBay.

    I finally caught up with the guy across the road, he has a really neat VL Calais with a 6.0l conversion built as a burnout/cruise car. He wants $18k for the lot. But it has a lot of good stuff, so if I can part out the bits I don't need and sell the car minus motor and box. I should get out of it for around $10k or less. He said he spent $2k or so on the cooling system, $3k on the fuel system, etc. Ceramic clutch, 6 speed. And the motor is built not long ago with forged bottom end. It only has a HSV cam, something to do with rego. Made just shy of 300rwkw's. Not sure what a good VL Calais is worth minus it's motor and box. $6k? It's bright red and silver. Original 5.0l car.
    The best part is I just have to walk across the road and pick it up. And it has everything I need. No sourcing conversion kits and bits and pieces. So will speed up the process. And being a newly built engine with maybe 2000km's it should last a lot longer than a wrecker motor with 150,000km's.
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

  25. #55
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supashake View Post
    My LS drysump was about $900 total
    Any links or details?
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

  26. #56
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    Whats another car?! Lol
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  27. #57
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    Lightyear you have to remember that a street car vs a race car is like cat and dog. I would listen to TK if your filling the rocker covers and hit a hard turn and the pick up go's dry for one millisecond that's it at the right revs.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lord_fahrquhar View Post
    The au put the fucking tunnel in with the bullbar. Even Chuck Norris respects the ability of the au coon.

  28. #58
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Yep you're broken haha

    Fucking envious of $900 dry sump setup.

    Kroozer it's all on ebay,according to that Holmart have 2 available.
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  29. #59
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    Good luck parting out the VL....

    Get ready for the all time low dealing with flat brim, comoodore people.

  30. #60
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    The motor should be no different to a race car motor. Except for the dry sump. He said it has a baffled sump, but I would like to see how baffled it is.
    If I can get a dry sump that works for $900 I will be all over it.

    I know of one guy that runs a good sump and accusump and has had no issues.
    NA8B 89 KW's- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181 KW's- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VN SS

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