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Thread: $800 shit heap EP71

  1. #241
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    Going big block, nice!

    making your own mount is v.cool.

  2. #242
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Can you paint it in something not a shade of homosexual blue?
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  3. #243
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    I'll put out a postal vote and & see what the verdict comes back with. Who was that habib that painted your Supra?

  4. #244
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Just say its "group a" blue. Have bitches throthing at the giblets then.

  5. #245
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    Never had a FWD car before with an aggressive LSD. It has some interesting side effects, probably all can be negated with a change in driving style though. Pushing hard through corners, you can literally feel the clutch packs engage as you roll on the throttle. The front of the car begins to understeer and more steering angle is required (or less throttle). Took the car for a blat on old pac, the speed I can carry through corners is quite a lot, even with shit tyres on the car. I literally got to the point where I could no longer go faster as I was hanging halfway out of my seat.
    Low speed turns really suck, LSD is quite clunky and the car is a bit jerky. I know the Cusco LSD's need running in (figure 8's for 30mins or some shit) but this one is 2nd hand, so I don't think it would need 'running in'? Can't wait to take it down the strip, launching the car now is excellent, power is put straight down with fuck all wheel spin which is exactly what I was hoping for.

    Really need to sort the brakes. Bigger master and the pedal has gone to shit (long travel before brakes work). Plan is for new rotors & pads, and if I CBF I'll get the workshop down the road to check the clevis rod clearance & bias from front to rear. I'm at the point where I spent so long trying to sort out that master, I'm over having to fuck around with the brakes so rather pay somebody to do it for me
    Last edited by foamy; 12-08-17 at 07:02 PM.

  6. #246
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    You have fitted a legit good mechanical LSD, if it didn't lock up in a carpark doing lock to lock parking shenanigans you would want your money back;
    OEM clutch LSD's are pretty shit but are carpark friendly but you generally have to be dumping the clutch on the limiter or really out of traction for them to be kinda sorta locked.


    Cusco mechanical = choice
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  7. #247
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Foamy drops thing thing off to the land of the performance workshop tomorrow, adaptronic, 1000cc injectors, E85 and tuna to suit.
    Absolutely no idea whats going to happen, its running good so if anything, not sure how the stock ignition will go.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  8. #248
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Haha fucken awesome! You finally got both wheels turning, no better time to throw more hp at it haha

  9. #249
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    Bit of an update.

    Dropped it to the tuner for ECU + injectors + E85 tune etc. Unfortunately the last owner though it appropriate to use regular fuel hose in the tank for the fuel pump. Mid dyno session the car leans out, shop ends up finding the issue and fixes it + cleans the tank out of all the scunge.

    Car is back on the dyno, all of a sudden won't hold boost. Turns out the front compressor housing is loose and leaking boost at a rapid rate. The turbo manifold flange is also leaking and the gasket has blown. So the shop is pulling it all off to sort it. I'm hoping the turbo is alright and it just needs a new o-ring (or however they actually seal). There was a bit of oil in the intercooler piping so I don't know if that's a sign the turbo needs a rebuild (the crankcase breathers aren't plumbed into the intake).

    Good news is it made 138kw on 18psi with a leaking housing on 98. When the car is back together they will finish with the E85 tune and hand it back. Estimating around 155kw for the flex tune?

  10. #250
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    That's going to be great fun with 155ish

    Always the way though, nothing ever goes perfectly!
    DJ's don't need sigs

  11. #251
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    Probably the positives to take from it is that the things that have failed I either never touched (fuel pump, tank & turbo) or knew about them previously (knew the manifold flange was never machined after welding, kinda hoped the fact it is 15mm thick would mean it wouldn't warp but I guess when the exhaust shop mig'd it, it fucked it).

    Hoping to have it back next week. Mark @ MRC always does quality work so looking forward to getting it back to thrash these Nitto NT-01's

  12. #252
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    So this all went south pretty quickly.

    Speaking to the tuner at various times, he was always mentioning the coolant was very frothy. Didn't think anything of it. Got a message saying the car was ready, but unfortunately it's been pushing boost out of the head and into the cooling system.
    Looking at the dyno sheets, around 14psi and it's ok. Any more boost and it just doesn't want to make any more power. We're talking 1psi = 1kw. I havn't pulled the head just yet (waiting on parts to show up), but I'm guessing whoever built the motor just used stock head bolts & gasket and it doesn't like any more than 120kw.

    So plan at the moment is to pull the head off. Have it decked and cleaned. I've bought a genuine steel gasket from Toyota and will order some ARP head studs. I would go down the MLS route but I've got bad juju with MLS gaskets for some reason (plenty of guys getting around in the UK/AUS with big hp 4E's and using a stock gasket with studs). Realistically the block and head need to be cleaned well but I CBF taking that risk (will still clean it all well anyway but prefer using an OE gasket).

    Once it's back together I'll hand it back to the tuner just to make sure everything is ok and probably another power run or two.

  13. #253
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    gasket, studs = fixed
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  14. #254
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    Well, at least it actually has forged pistons lol.

    Got the head off late yesterday, very simple job. Ordered a bunch of new hoses and thermostat housing from Toyota along with a new head gasket and some ARP head studs. No damage anywhere, just looks like the head was lifting on boost. Head bolts were tight so wasn't a case of some loose bolts. Also took a chance to delete the 2 redundant map sensors from the engine bay.

    Didn't grab a photo, but one of the CV boots is twisted badly and ended up ripping? Never seen that happen before, NFI what could even cause that to happen.....

  15. #255
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Bit of a spew about the head gasket. But at least it's done right this time.

  16. #256
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    i see youre getting some practice in before we need to do this to my 1uz

  17. #257
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    Fuck the 1UZ lol double trouble.

    Engine shop just phoned. I never eyeballed the head (probably should of!). Coolant galleries have corroded into the combustion chamber. So I guess there was never an issue with head bolts or the gasket itself. Engine shop is welding it up now as we speak so it's not too big an issue but obviously was enough to cause problems on full boost.


    Should have the head back tomorrow, maybe back together by this weekend.

  18. #258
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Sweet, oh well time for 35psi then hahs

  19. #259
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    I didnt even look at the head, eyeballed ok and yeah, headgasket looked mint.
    Oh well, one of the many reasons why you should run a good coolant. It sat for quite a while with a mixture of shitty water in it.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  20. #260
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    Need some advice here.

    I've put heads on a whole bunch of engines and have used ARP studs / bolts a whole heap of times without issue.

    Chased all the head bolt threads prior to installation. Went through the usual bullshit of hand tight > 20 ft pounds > 40 ft pounds (as per ARP instructions) & then onto 60 ft pounds (wrench is in Nm which is 81 Nm for 60 ft pounds).

    First bolt...turn...turn...turn...........turn. By this point I'm worried it felt like I've gone past 81 Nm. Back off the wrench to 70 Nm. Wrench clicks. Up it to 75Nm. Wrench clicks. Up it to 80 Nm. No click from the wrench, turn the bolt a bit more and bang. Bolt snaps maybe 4-5 threads from the top.

    First thought was the thread has been broken inside the block. 2nd thought is the wrench is fucked and wasn't reading correctly. Thread in the block is mint. As a test I set the wrench to 80 Nm, and try the 2nd bolt. Bolt goes to 80 Nm as expected, wrench clicks. Try the 3rd bolt....same deal.

    I'm assuming at this point I've gone too far on the first bolt, but I can't possibly think why? Lubed all the threads + underneath the bolt heads. Only solution I can think of, is somehow the torque wrench has fucked up and on 80 Nm it hasn't clicked to let me know I've hit that torque point?

    Question being, is there something else that could of given me a false reading on the wrench? Is it possible for a torque wrench to give such a bad reading as to snap a bolt? I mean these were brand new ARP bolts...how far over 80 Nm do you need to go for you to break one in half? Could it be a dud bolt? The other 9 + the HG are now junk, I can't go and buy a single ARP bolt from my supplier.

    Not too phased about the money, I just want to know if it's something I've fucked up or if my tools have failed me. It's not a deflecting beam type....if there is say a 10% tolerance on them. Could 90 Nm be enough to break one of these ARP bolts? Just fucking weird that the first bolt breaks.........2nd and 3rd ones have no issue going to 80 Nm (and didn't feel like I was over tightening it either).

  21. #261
    Registered User AlexinPerth's Avatar
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    It was the bolt.
    You would have felt a significant change in torque required to break a good bolt.
    If they all felt the same, then the bolt was damaged.

  22. #262
    bitch lasagne Bob Vegana.'s Avatar
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    Is your torque wrench one of those ones that you have to manually set the clicker?
    Quote Originally Posted by brewdles View Post
    In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

  23. #263
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    No it's not one of those deflecting beam types, it's the one where it makes the clicking noise (don't have to reset it). I've borrowed Dneg's deflecting beam one now (gets calibrated regularly) so I can rule out if the wrench somehow fucked up.

    I guess I'll send the bolt back to the supplier and see what they say.....

  24. #264
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    You have my Bahco/Snap-on/CDI wrench;
    It's calibrated and good. But the one you have I gaurentee is good too.

    But yeah, fucking ARP
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  25. #265
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    What a cunt...
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  26. #266
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    FML.

    Got this all back together over the weekend. Fired it up, car was running like shit. Set the timing no problem but the car would chug when given some revs. Went through the ignition system but couldn't find anything wrong.
    Pulled the plugs out, CYL #1 was full off coolant. Checked the coolant idle up valve, no leaks from that. Pulled the head off.....where the shop has welded the head it has cracked again between the combustion chamber and the coolant jacket.

    So I have two options. Either get the head repaired again or replace it with one in better condition. Or I have a mint condition 5EFE head here. Same head except this one is configured for coil on plug (well actually 2x coils running 4x plugs).
    Just trying to work out now how much of a headfuck it would be to splice that into the existing loom? I have the 5EFE loom here so it's just a case of working out how viable it would be to have it done. Not too sure what needs changing in the ECU, if it's a case of ticking a few boxes or changing ignition maps etc etc.

  27. #267
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    Not much progress on this. Found some busted bits so ordered replacements from Amayama UAE while waiting on the head.

    Ended up calling ARP in the US. Went through some specs with one of their workers. May of found a head stud solution that doesn't involve re-tapping the block.

    A14.240-2B is the head stud part number for Hayabusa (M9x1.25). Length is 10mm more than the longer of the 2 head bolts. Looking at the head, looks like there is plenty of clearance anyway for a longer stud so no problems there.

    300-8342 is the part number for the wrenching nut or whatever they call it. OD is .615" or 15.6mm. Size on the regular bolt head is around 14mm so these nuts should have plenty of surface area. Washer diameter is 19mm.

    Found a spare head, just trying to tee up with old mate to go and collect it. Will present both heads to the engine shop, they can then pick which of the two is best to use. Will also update on if this head stud solution works or not. I fuckin hope so because it's the best part of $300!

  28. #268
    Registered User LB-XP's Avatar
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    What a mission. Nothing worse when this kind stuff happens on a cheap project car!

    Hopefully you get it sorted again for minimal cash outlay

  29. #269
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    How's it going? More parts here?
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  30. #270
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    ep71s with no heads seems to be a thing huh

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