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Thread: nugget vc commo wagon sr20det thing

  1. #31
    Registered User [TUFFVQ]'s Avatar
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    Blingcommander - What adjustable upper rear arms are they?

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  3. #33
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    That those $80-$95 panhards from suzukisuper? Any good?
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  4. #34
    Registered User [TUFFVQ]'s Avatar
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    Thanks mate - $70 cheaper than whiteline.

  5. #35
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    So just wasted another day on this thing. Attempted to get the front suspension together. Bolted one side up and ran into a serious issue straight away. The balljoint was binding... Worked around it, but ended up running 0 camber. Any negative and it would bind.



    The issue was simple, here is the silvia lca with balljoint sitting about middle of its travel, and commodore lca with silvia balljoint at full travel


    And here is the dodgy drifters solution. V2 lca is 25mm longer at the top and 40mm longer at the bottom



    This stopped the binding in the balljoint, and gave me about -3.5 degrees camber. But the tierod end is now hitting the caster arm nut, limiting steering lock. Lame.



    Now onto V3 lca. This one is 55/75mm longer. It fixed all previous issues, plenty of lock and -6.5 degrees camber (yay) but created another. Because od the curve of the lca the wheel is now hard against the front of the guard. The extension now needs 10mm taken out of the rear to centre the wheel. Another days issue. Also needs to be raised a heap.





    So yeah. Surprised the wheels fit (ish)
    17x9 +22 rpf1 with 215/45 tyres

  6. #36
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    Allrighty, got my lower control arms sorted. Pie cut 10mm off the rear side. The wheel sits pretty good and the tierod end doesn't fowl on anything. Pretty happy with the amount of lock it has now.





    Also had a bit of time to get the engine mount adapters made and tacked in. I used r31 mounts because they are more simple to use than the sr ones. I ended up moving the engine forward 25mm compared to the previous post. Gave more room for the exhaust and the shifter hole doesn't need to be made bigger.




    And a quick test fit of the radiator/intercooler setup


    Also chasing some rear wheels, either 17x9 +45ish or 17x9.5 +50ish, can be either 5x120 or 5x114.3

  7. #37
    [DIRTY31] lysdexia's Avatar
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    this rules
    HR31 Coupe - RB20, Bilsteins, Cage and shit
    R31 Ti - Sun Visor, Venetian Blinds, Coilovers, Whiteline Bars, Wog Stance.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Jones View Post
    Farmer its all about how you cut them up, like a dead hooker jigsaw puzzle.

  8. #38
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    Thanks man.
    Been finding it tough to get time to work on this. Made a gearbox mount. 20x20 box welded together to make 20x40 'rhs' just because i had the scrap steel already.



    Anyone know how far you can pull the rear guard on these? Is 15mm going to be a pain in the ass?

  9. #39
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Inside the arch is quite strong could be pain in the arse unless cut some of then will be easy as piss.

    Cant see it being difficult for you.
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  10. #40
    let me tighten ya nuts wagoner's Avatar
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    fucking gold, you're going to upset a lot of people with this!
    '71 BMW 2002 - restoration
    '14 Colorado 4x4 dual cab - reliability

    Quote Originally Posted by Marv
    my cuts look like they're done by Michael J Fox using a grinder on the end of a pool noodle

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