1uzvvti manual into a ke70

[awdmoke]

even if you did a total bodge job on the de-stroke use some OEM rods you could put the original crank back in later with some good rods and get your displacement back without an engine number change and no machine work

... or you could get another stock crank and offset grind it for increased stroke and swap it in keeping the short stroke rods and pistons and you now have more capacity than stock.

Anyway, find a set of rods and get a quote on the crank grind. Odds are it'll be cheaper than sleeving, boring and new pistons.

[Tripper]

Yeah the 4g rods? I ran them past mark and the amount of work (cost lol) was considered a lot less than the resleeve...

It might just be marks preference but he feels the rod stroke ratip is really good and nothing is to e gained by chasing higher revs unless we got a lot of work in the heads. And I don't have the money as much as I would love to throw cams and such at it...

Put the rods in get rego, put old rods back in

[fantapants]

Put the rods in get rego, put old rods back in

From memory the 4g rods were to be used with a offset grind. And the rods need work on them to fit at the big end...

From what I have found there isn't a cheap of the shelf options for a throw together motor. So I'm inclined to just cop the capacity reduction in the chin and build the "best" compromise engine I can...

I originally thought to get a cheap early gen Uz and no the quickest cheapest capacity reduction then put in a nice vvti.. But for such a small amount of lost power (mark recons 5percent) I'd rather a nice built engine from scratch?

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

[MRMOPARMAN]

Dont worry too much about the heads, you can always pull them off later and cut sick on them if you can afford it later on. I be concentrating on getting the capacity right and building the bottom end to suit upgrades later on.
Now im not a TKs arsehole, but my thinking would be to go the offset grind if you can get the capacity decrease. It might be more a 2v thing, but everyone seems to like keeping the bore size big to reduce valve shrouding/get bigger valves etc. Also iirc sleeving costs around $400 a sleeve. So by the time you do 8 cyls, thats not far off billet crank money. Then you would obviously use the millions of off the shelf 86mm pistons, but remember, reduce bore size, and you loose comp. And theres a good chance the piston off another engine wouldnt be optimised to suit the head.
So the fip side, honda rods are the rod equiv to 350 chev pistons. Theres a billion combos. Itscnot the end of the world if things like the big end width isnt right, as you can convert to piston guided rods, and things like that. And you can use off the shelf pistons that are known to work with 1uzs.
And besides all that.. If you have to go custom, custom rods are cheaper than custom pistons

[perthdrivers.txt]

R154 shift is fine with a short shift kit which are on ebay

If not its likely the shifter bush which is an easy fix

Those AR5 ratios above dont look "better" to me, unless you are building a crawler or something...

[fantapants]

Dont worry too much about the heads, you can always pull them off later and cut sick on them if you can afford it later on. I be concentrating on getting the capacity right and building the bottom end to suit upgrades later on.
Now im not a TKs arsehole, but my thinking would be to go the offset grind if you can get the capacity decrease. It might be more a 2v thing, but everyone seems to like keeping the bore size big to reduce valve shrouding/get bigger valves etc. Also iirc sleeving costs around $400 a sleeve. So by the time you do 8 cyls, thats not far off billet crank money. Then you would obviously use the millions of off the shelf 86mm pistons, but remember, reduce bore size, and you loose comp. And theres a good chance the piston off another engine wouldnt be optimised to suit the head.
So the fip side, honda rods are the rod equiv to 350 chev pistons. Theres a billion combos. Itscnot the end of the world if things like the big end width isnt right, as you can convert to piston guided rods, and things like that. And you can use off the shelf pistons that are known to work with 1uzs.
And besides all that.. If you have to go custom, custom rods are cheaper than custom pistons

Yeah OK that is the sort of advice I'm understanding

I'll keep doing my research and get market o quote up on a few different options.

I have sent tk a pm, but don't know if he has seen it... If anyone can give him a nudge to get his input?



Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

[fantapants]

nah 6G74.. v6

I was going from here http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-info/conrod-specs

but cross checking seems to leave a questionmark over the big end size so something to check..

another option is RB30 rods...

I have not seen a sleeved UZ motor last, as the factory ones are cast in you take a lot of strength out of the block boring them out.

even if you did a total bodge job on the de-stroke use some OEM rods you could put the original crank back in later with some good rods and get your displacement back without an engine number change and no machine work

Sorry missed this one...

I'll keep having a look. I wasn't aware the leaving was a problem. I have seen a few threads on lextreme of guys using those fancy sleeves to get mid to high 5l capacity.. But hadn't seen any mention of things being "damaged" by resleaving.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

[TRD-MX62]

Sorry missed this one...

I'll keep having a look. I wasn't aware the leaving was a problem. I have seen a few threads on lextreme of guys using those fancy sleeves to get mid to high 5l capacity.. But hadn't seen any mention of things being "damaged" by resleaving.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

yeah dont think you will find any dynos of said engines, I think lextreames one got a video of it at idle thats it

[fantapants]

Righto....

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk