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Thread: Resistance is futile - The story of the borg.

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    Resistance is futile - The story of the borg.

    I’ve had a few build threads around the net for this car, but over the year’s images and forums have gone offline, so I thought it was about time to document the story of this car again.

    I look back at the 12 years I’ve owned the car and think the journey has been more fun than arriving at the final iteration. I have learnt a lot owning and modifying this car and I’ve tried a lot of things that didn’t work that’s for sure, as you’ll read later.

    Taking a trip back, it all started in 2005 when I found this nugget at a Perth importer.



    It’s a 1988 Mitsubishi Mirage Cyborg and It has a lot in common with the Australian assembled CB Lancer as far as body panels and standard trim components, but as with most imports the JDM version’s specification was much higher with more standard electric gizmos, better seats and interior trimming, plus a turbo engine and 4WD drivetrain.

    You could consider this basically the little brother of the Galant VR4 of the same vintage, but with several differences.

    Standard, the specs read like;
    • 1600 Twin cam, Turbo and Intercooled / 4G61T / TD04 11g / 8psi
    • 4WD with Viscous Center Coupling, Solid Rear Diff (Open Standard/Optional LSD)
    • 5 Speed Manual, 2.844 diff ratio
    • A/C / Elec Windows & Mirrors
    • Grand Slam Sticker

    And the standard performance is a spirited;
    • 95.5KW / 144NM
    • 0-100 kph in 10.3s
    • 1/4m 17.2s
    • Kerb weight ~1200kg

    I can’t say I was wowed when I first inspected it, it had horrid wheels and underwhelming performance and at the time I was really looking for a EVO 1-3.

    But after about 3 weeks I convinced myself to buy the car and parted with $7,000 of the good stuff, it was clean, only had 90,000kms on the clock and a very rare option of the sunroof.



    This is where the journey began…

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    The very first mod I did was get rid of the 15” Racing Hart CP Competition wheels, they were very light and probably rare – but I wasn’t a fan. (fast forward a couple of years and the Harts were wrecked when I lent them out)

    I really wanted a set of Enkei Tarmac Evo’s, but they were impossible to find at the time, especially in a 4x114.3 stud pattern. I settled on a similar design by Advanti called the SA15 which I ordered in 17” with some 215/40 tyres. This puts the rolling diameter about 10% higher than stock but it is the largest rim/tyre package that would fit comfortably in the guards.

    Second mod was to lower the car but of course there were no off the shelf springs available in Australia for this car. The Fronts were easy as the MacPherson strut setup is the same as the ADM CB Lancer GSR, but the GSR springs wouldn’t work in the rear because the Rear diff made the lower mounting higher. With a lack of options, I ended up getting a set of CB Lancer GSR King Springs anyway and shortening the rear springs to fit. This made the rear very stiff and quite horrible to drive, but it looked better than being 4” too high in the rear.


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    Shortly after I installed an Auto Meter Phantom Series boost gauge that has since day one, never read accurate. It’s always hovered around 1psi when at normal air pressure and I’ve hunted for a calibration bung, but there isn’t one.

    The momo steering wheel came with the car and I think it’s perfect, I intended the button as a scramble boost toggle, but it’s never been hooked up.



    I drove the car around like that for a few months and then had a custom 3” Mandrel bent exhaust installed combined with a dodgy boost tap the car went pretty good.

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    Now around 2006, I started attending a few of the local car cruises and on one night I had done a few clutch dump launches in a row and then heard a little “ting”. The car still drove okay but something wasn’t right, it would almost drive like it had a locked rear diff. I wonder what it could be? Mmmm never mind it still drove.

    One of the reasons I convinced myself to by the Borg was because of how easy it was to upgrade with VR4 parts and after keeping an eye out in the local trading paper I found a 1992 ADM Galant GSR that had a JDM Galant VR4 Evo Zero front cut installed, but it wasn’t running properly.

    This made me start thinking of doing an engine swap, which from what I had read was easy enough as the 4G63T is the same family as the 4G61T except 2.0 litre vs 1.6 and the only real physical different is a 10mm taller block.

    A good reason to hunt down a VR4 Evo Zero was because of the factory upgrades over a standard VR4. The Evo Zero makes 176kw and 304nm vs 150kw and 294nm for the standard VR4, this is mainly achieved with 510cc vs 450cc Injectors, TD05 Small 16G vs 14B, Larger Intercooler and piping, slightly more aggressive Cams and a better tune in the ECU, which is a single board and chippable.

    When I looked at the swapped Galant GSR, the engine ran fine, compression was good but it wouldn’t shift into any gear and the clutch just didn’t feel like it was there at all, but the basis looked good enough and I really wanted that engine! $1800 later and it was mine.

    No use wasting time then…

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    I sold the stock 4G61T complete minus wiring loom to someone in Adelaide for almost the cost of the Galant with the VR4 motor, probably the best deal I had with the car.

    Gave the VR4 motor a birthday, new Cambelt, pulleys, water pump and balance shaft removal.


  6. #6
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    When removing the balance shafts in 4G63’s it tends to increase the oil pressure significantly, it’s not uncommon for it to go way above 100psi which can cause a few problems with turbo oil seals etc.

    The common solution is to port the standard oil pressure relief valve, I may have gone just a little for far here, but it works!


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    I had a new engine, just needed to sort out a gearbox. The one that came with the new motor was cactus, it had a dodgy FWD conversion done, broken bellhousing from probably running into something and the clutch release bearing had collapsed. I stripped it down for some bits and binned the rest.

    It wasn’t too much of an issue that the VR4 gearbox was unusable because with just a VR4 clutch and flywheel the stock 4G61 gearbox would bolt up fine. I just needed to find a clutch and flywheel…

    Lucky for me I guess, I found a Direct Clutch Twin Plate for sale on eBay, total over kill!


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    Remember the “Ting” noise I heard when I did a launch earlier? Well it seems I smashed the two spider gears in the Centre diff and they had wedged themselves in such a way that they locked the diff up. This explains the car driving like it had a locked rear diff.

    So why not do the job properly and weld the whole thing together with bird shit? Theory being it won’t break again right?


  9. #9
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    With the drive train sorted, I swapped the 4G61T engine mounts onto the 4G63T and it all dropped in like it was meant to be there.



    I wish I had known at this point how much further I had to go.

  10. #10
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    With the 2.0 litre finally in the car I started on swapping some of the VR4 sensors into the 4G61 loom, mainly the Cam/Crank Angle Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Stepper Motor. I also added a SARD FPR to the stock fuel rail and gave the rocker cover a lick of paint.

    Electrically, the swap from the 4G61 to 4G63 is very easy as the wiring between the Cyborg & VR4 is almost identical. Only a few sensor plugs need updating and the VR4 ECU even plugs right in.


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    I then started to plan the fuel system, the standard pump is guessed to be around 120lph which would probably be ok for standard power levels but I wanted to build some future proof in.

    My thoughts were to use the stock pump as a lift pump into a surge tank with a single Bosch 044 as the primary. That should give me a bit of head room. Now, where to put it?



    Might as well relocate the battery to the boot at the same time, this will free up some engine bay space for cold air induction. I ran a length of 32mm2 double insulated power cable from the front to rear of the car.


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    Speaking of induction, you may have noticed no exhaust manifold/turbo or intake in the previous images.

    Well, I happened to acquire a TD05 16G-6 from a Hyper RVR, this turned out to be a bit of a gem as when we looked closely at it, it was the same physical size as a normal Big 16G but had a revised compressor wheel, which I assumed to mean good things. One drawback was that I would need to clock the turbo compressor cover to fit and that would mean I couldn’t use the stock internal wastegate and actuator. Damn.

    So, to solve that problem I purchased a TRR Stainless manifold with a 38mm Tial Wastegate. This was before the golden age of Chinabay and quality was assured 😉

    A couple of other parts arrived, a 2.5” Throttle Body Inlet and an Injen Turbo Intake for an US Eclipse.


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    A bit more happened on the fuel system and boot. I wasn’t thinking of building a show car, just a nice streeter and I was trying to keep the boot a usable place.



    Battery boxed and a huge fuse added inline.


  14. #14
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    I have a friend in the sign writing business who owns a CNC router, he machined me up this awesome custom sparkplug cover and I added some Taylor Ignition leads for something nicer to look at.



    The standard intercooler wasn’t going to work for this engine, its tiny and sits inside the driver’s side wheel well. The obvious choice at the time to was use the VR4 cooler, being the Evo Zero spec it was slightly larger than the normal JDM Galant cooler and with a 2.5” end tank mod should work well for this setup.

    I positioned the standard VR4 Oil Cooler in the passenger side wheel well, it gets its airflow from the standard bumper vents, but probably needs a little fan behind it for the summer time.



    …and I also added a little cold air induction on the driver’s side in the form of a 250mm 90deg Bunnings spec storm drain, this earned the car the affectionate nickname: POSBOG from my mates.


  15. #15
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    With Cyborgs & VR4’s, they share a lot of wiring and sensors. This made the swap quite easy but when it comes to ECU’s there are only a few good ones and they are the single board ECUs from late model VR4s.

    These late model single board ECU’s can be chipped and they can also data logged via an OBD like protocol.

    Thankfully with the 2.0 litre engine came the accompanying MD165808 ECU that I had socketed and chipped by a local guy to include a stock VR4 RS Fuel & Ignition Map, updated code for the newer E1-3 Air Flow Meters and “stutter box” which is a launch control mode that creates about 7psi of boost while popping & banging.



    The data logging on the single board ECU is done via a Palm IIIc with MMCd Logging software installed. It works really well and is a lot faster than real OBD/II, enough so that it actually provides useful information and can be setup in a dash mount with night lights.


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    A few months later all was complete and with the locked center diff it made the car a bit of a fun to drive, the inside rear wheel would skip if turning at low speed or if trying to reverse and turn, the inside front wheel would drag. It did cause no end of a confusing looks at petrol stations from the local bogan’s.

    I entered Motovation 21 at Perth Motorplex with Old School Toys and apart from the blazing heat it was an amazing experience.

    Unfortunately, I couldn’t enter any events as the Fuel Pressure Gauge failed, leaking fuel everywhere and the car would overheat if it wasn’t getting enough air flow through the radiator.

    At the time, I thought the overheating was probably the dodgy super cheap slim line fans.








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    First mod post Motovation was improving the Brakes. Standard Cyborgs run a Single Piston front and rears but they just don’t slow the car down quickly enough, especially now it has double the power of the stock motor.
    The obvious move is to install the VR4 braking system as its meant for a heavier car with similar amount of power – this is exactly what I did.
    CB Lancers and by extension, Cyborgs run a captive front rotor and there isn’t any option to increase the size of the rotor from 236mm to the VR4 sized 276mm.



    Removing the rotor also means breaking apart the whole hub assembly which means you may as well replace the hub bearings at the same time. Bugger.

    Thankfully a friend had been down this path before and the remedy is to disassemble the hub, replace the bearings and machine down the stub axle to fit inside the VR4 rotor.

    This is the stub axle, effectively I need to have about 3mm machined off the outer edge for it then to fit inside the VR4 rotor. This then turns the front braking system into a floating disk.



    Now some might be wondering why I don’t use a whole VR4 hub assembly? Good question grass hopper.

    The problem with swapping the whole hubs over if that the geometry is different and the mounting point for the steering arm is upside down, this all impacts handling and gives the car a tendency to tramline over any bump, not something I really wanted.

    Once the stub axle has been turned down it slots easy inside the rotor, problem solved? Nearly, but now the rotor is effectively offset by the rotor hub face thickness, which means the caliper is no longer centered with the disc. In the end, all that’s needed is some 6mm spacers behind the calipers to bring everything back into alignment.


  18. #18
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    VR4 Brake conversion all completed, I ran a seal kit through the front and rear calipers while at it.





    With the new rotors and calipers, combined with a re-sleaved 1” VR4 brake master cylinder and the car finally stops reasonably well. It still feels like it needs a larger booster ratio as you still really need to step on the brakes to start hauling up – buts its much improved over standard.

  19. #19
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    A month or so after doing the brakes I noticed a couple of drips of gearbox oil on the driveway. It seemed the 5th gear retaining nut had back out and cracked the end of the gearbox housing.



    A quick torque up again and a bigger hit with the hitting stick on the 5th gear nut crush points seemed to solve it for the time.

    A benefit of transverse mounted engine is that it is easy to replace the front gearbox cover, just jack the car up, take off the driver’s side wheel and there it is.

    Now as luck would have it, when you own an odd ball car, owner’s kind of group together and someone not too far away from me had two KM221 gearboxes for sale with transfer cases, these are the standard Cyborg gearboxes with the 2.844 ratio diffs.

    I borrowed one of the front covers from the gearboxes I had just collected, problem solved.



    If you recall earlier in the thread I mentioned I had a habit of launching the car, well I had been itching to try this “stutter box” out and… well… when I did;

    1. The output shaft of the transfer case snapped off.
    2. A whole bunch of teeth on the rear diff crown wheel were ripped off.

    Seems the on/off nature of the twin plate clutch and fused center diff attacked the next weakest links in the driveline.

    It still drove that broken though, with the locked center diff it was just and open diff front wheel drive and it sucked, it would fry the front single wheel in 4th very easily and was basically unusable.

    Thankfully though, I had a spare transfer from the gearboxes I picked up earlier and I also managed to source a 2.844 ratio rear mechanical LSD off retardme.co.nz, I’ve never heard of one let alone seen one for sale, score!

    Speaking of ratios, VR4s/RVRs and Evo 1-3’s share a common set of rear diff ratios, 3.547, 3.909 or 3.312 for some Auto’s. The diff ratio doesn’t equate to the total final drive though as there is also a primary reduction ratio of 1.275 in the gearbox and a further 1.090 ratio in the transfer case which brings the total final drive 4.929 for 3.5’s and 5.433 for 3.9’s. Where am I going with this?

    Well the pre-1990 Cyborg’s were the only series that had a 2.844 rear diff ratio and this is because they used a KM221 gearbox which has a different primary reduction ratio of 1.640. With the transfer case ratio of 1.090 this brings the total final drive to 5.084 very similar to a standard VR4’s.

    Anyway, I digress, I put the spare transfer case in and swapped in the new rear LSD and it was good.
    Last edited by to4garret; 17-05-17 at 11:47 PM.

  20. #20
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    Subscribed. Always enjoy reading these long term ownership build threads.

    Great parts interchangeability between Mitsubishi models it would read, nice.

  21. #21
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    For about a month, then I kept on hitting ignition breakdown, it would just start running on 2 cylinders, which in a wasted spark setup points to a coil. I swapped in multiple different coils, changed out Power Transistor Units (Ignitors), probed the loom looking for issues but I just couldn’t keep the car running reliably, it seemed to be spitting coils for some reason.

    Looking back at it now, this is where I think most sane people should have stopped and just maintained/fixed and enjoyed the car, but I must have been dropped on my head when I was a baby as I continued tipping money into this thing at an increasing rate.

    I cracked the shits at the ignition problem and then this happened.



    Innovate LC-1, Link Plus G3 with wire in loom, 7 bar Map Sensor, Dual – Twin Ignitors and a Jaycar kit to make a set of “Det Cans”.

    I bought the Link Plus G3 a few months before the G4 was released, but thankfully the hardware is the same in the G3 and you can unlock the same features as the G4 with a $150 software unlock.

    And so, begins the next round of mods, my solution to the ignition problem…


  22. #22
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    At this time, I also pulled the engine and gearbox out again, this was so I can get rid of the twin plate clutch and put something in that would actually act as a fuse on the driveline, rather than the murderer.

    It was also a suitable time to swap in a gearbox that didn’t have a welded center diff.

    I didn’t drop in a standard gearbox though, I modified the center diff off one of the gearboxes I scored earlier for a 4-spider center. This is a rather simple mod that almost doubles the power holding of the center diff and also helps a little with shocking load capability.

    The mod is straight forward you machine the cross bar down… (machined left, standard right)



    …and then slide a set of additional spider gears on and machine a small amount off the side of the center diff housing.



    It was fairly expensive machining the crossbar as it was hardened tool steel but a local tool sharpener was more than happy to have a crack and he did a magic job.

    All bolted together an installed into another good gearbox.

    I’ve kept the gearbox with the locked centre for another time.

  23. #23
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    I replaced the twin plate with a Fidanza Aluminium flywheel, sintered puck friction plate and a something/something pressure plate – yes, I obviously had not learned anything from the twin plate fiasco.



    I got to thinking about why Mitsubishi rotated the engine and gearbox 180deg in the Evo 4+, common reasoning is that it removes a shaft in the gearbox.

    Earlier models need 3 shafts, Input, Intermediate and Output whereas the Evo 4+ have only an Input and Intermediate.

    Or perhaps it’s so if the flywheel explodes it takes the passengers nads out and not the drivers.

    Hrmm, think I need a scatter shield.



    Actually, I need a polished scatter shield.


  24. #24
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    Next minute these goodies arrived. A set of Brian Crower 280 degree duration cams, matching heavy duty valve springs, titanium retainers, Fidanza cam gears, ARP head studs and ARP rod bolts.

    Totally over kill for a standard short block but, you know, why not right?

    Matchstick for scale, tissues for clean-up.



    To install the valve springs, it was easiest to take the head off for a freshen up. I used a local machining shop to clean up the head, skim, check the valve seats, install new guide seals, springs and retainers.



    Next up was a Cometic Multi Layered Steel Head Gasket along with the ARP head studs. Brian Crower recommend the 280’s to be installed straight up but at the time I didn’t have a dial indicator to check for actual Top Dead Center of the Pistons since the head and gasket height were different now.

    I have since checked with a dial indicator and it’s just under half a degree out, not enough for me to worry about cracking the Loctite on the cam gears retaining nuts.


  25. #25
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    And another turn for the project, a local was selling this low km turbo and I had to impulse buy! Unfortunately, the standard unit of measurement, the Nokia phone was unavailable, I had to substitute with another period correct device.



    It’s a PTE SCM 6152E, in hindsight it’s a complete ass of a turbo, but it’s a bolt-on to the Mitsubishi mounting flange and well, bigger is better, right?

    Apparently its rated for 630hp, with a 3.5” Inlet, 56 trim compressor wheel with an Inducer of 61mm and Exducer of 82mm. What really lets it down is the custom rear housing made by PTE to suit the Mitsubishi flange and the 76 trim T350 turbine.

    But what’s done is done. 😊

  26. #26
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    With a bigger turbo, you need bigger injectors and I picked up a set of second hand SARD 800cc injectors and had them cleaned before installing.

    What’s annoying about these injectors is SARD don’t offer any decent specifications on them, just a vague Dead/Lag Time of 1.1ms, like at what voltage and fuel pressure?

    It turns out that at 3 bar fuel pressure these are closer to 855cc. Not quite enough for corn juice, but that wasn’t even available in West Australia when I was building this.



    Getting ahead a little here, but I recently purchased an oscilloscope and measured the actual dead time on the car while it was running. The Hantek DSO 6074BE IV is a kit specific for cars and makes testing this stuff easy. I varied the voltage by turning on ancillaries, disconnecting the alternator and running on battery power etc. then used a non-linear extrapolation to get the lower voltages.

    At standard operating voltages, the dead times are now exact and much closer at the lower voltages.


  27. #27
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    I dummied the engine up on the engine stand to see how much additional clearance would be needed on the water pump inlet pipe which runs behind the turbo, fortunately none was needed.

    I also gave the exhaust manifold a heat wrap in the hope it would help with the overheating the car had while sitting at traffic lights. On a stock car, there would be some heat shielding on the manifolds and dump pipes and maybe with the tighter engine bay in the Cyborg compared to the VR4, the unwrapped manifold may have been radiating too much heat into the bay for the near stock cooling system to dissipate. It couldn’t hurt, right?

    One of the other changes here was that the oil feed for the turbo could not come from the stock location in the head as the oil pressure at this point is too low, PTE recommend taking the oil straight from the filter housing which is as close to max pressure you can get.


  28. #28
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    In a semi-serious continuing effort to stop the overheating when stationary on hot days I thought about adding some bonnet vents and in my opinion, the only ones that would be correct for the car are VR4 RS vents. I did consider some Evo 3 bonnet vents but I just didn’t think it would work right as they are much larger.

    I was pretty nervous doing those first few cuts into the bonnet, but in the end, it came up okay, not perfect but good enough.



    I did plenty of measuring to find the right spot for the vents in the bonnet, I’m not using the best position for heat extraction, but rather a position that is as close to where the vents sit on a standard VR4 RS bonnet. This puts the vents half over the radiator support and half over the exhaust manifold.

    With liberal amounts of Sikaflex I glued the vents into the bonnet and even after 8 years there has been no sign of movement.



    I went to super cheap and got them to mix up and rattle can of the standard paint and it turned out awesome.



    Until I applied the clear to them which made them go a milky colour. *sigh* I ended on masking them up and painting them satin black recently.

  29. #29
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    I put the engine back in the car with the new clutch, gearbox, turbo. I had also entered into a group buy for some custom Front & Rear Strut braces which I finally got to test fit.


  30. #30
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    Remember how the handling was pretty bad because of the shortened rear King Springs I installed?

    I bought a set of G4’s for a VR4, taking a gamble that I could adjust enough height out the rear to get the Cyborg sitting right.

    This wasn’t the case and the rears were far too tall but the G4 dealer in Australia was more than happy to help in customising the coil overs to work.



    I sent the rears back with some measurements and this was what the result is, one very shortened rear coil over which worked!



    Some of you might be thinking, “But G4’s are cheap shite” and, well yea they’re not the best, but they are light years better than what was there previously.

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