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Thread: VS 5 litre low comp...rebuild time?

  1. #31
    Registered User MartyRX2's Avatar
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    VS 5 litre low comp...rebuild time?

    So just got off the phone to Luke at Camtech. Firstly, he reckons it is unlikely the previous owner fucked the cam timing. Itís a matter of lining up the two marks and all good. He suggested that maybe the cam in the car is too large. From the idle it has Iím not convinced but I guess thereís a chance and matched to the stock converter/diff gears the thing is a slug. Iím starting to think that maybe the cam in there is some cheap eBay special and the grind is really average. From here I can do a couple of things.
    1. Attempt to degree in the unknown cam thatís in there. Remove it, measure lift/duration/lsa and use a multi keyway timing set to correct it.
    2. Buy a Camtech cam/lifter set and put that in. ($460)

    Considering that this is my daily driver and can only be off the road a few days Iím thinking the second option might be best.


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    Last edited by MartyRX2; 22-01-18 at 09:20 AM.

  2. #32
    Registered User 9triton's Avatar
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    what vacuum is it pulling when idling -should be clue on cam size (or cam timing)(or ignition timing)
    Last edited by 9triton; 22-01-18 at 12:56 PM.

  3. #33
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    Why don't you check the timing (EDIT: And lift) as installed before you throw money at it? If you have a dial indicator with a magnetic base, you can make a cam degreeing wheel for next to nothing, and check it yourself.
    Last edited by Sprinkles; 22-01-18 at 02:34 PM.

  4. #34
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Hate to say it but cam change feels like a waste on these unless bump up compression...sv5000 had 268 or tiny shit thing which is why stally with shift kit/transcooler or diff gears proved better value.

    Usually they loose power from timing chain slack if they've got a few miles on them.

    Wouldn't be surprised if cam timing is wrong or lots of slack in it.
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  5. #35
    Registered User MartyRX2's Avatar
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    Going to pull this apart today and check cam timing. Nothing serious, just making sure itís not out one tooth.


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  6. #36
    Registered User MartyRX2's Avatar
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    Timing looks ok. 16 pins dot to dot. Iím a bit disappointed.



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  7. #37
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Cuntish, is it just dead off the line or all the way? Does it perform better when cold? If you have answered yes to one or more of these questions you may have dead valve springs.

  8. #38
    Registered User MartyRX2's Avatar
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    Itís pretty slack all the time. For example, a standing start from the lights and itís about as fast as most late model diesel 4X4s or NA 4 cylinders. Next thing Iíll do is a leak down test. If the engine is healthy in the valves and rings then Iím going to assume the cam is a shit grind.


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  9. #39
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Yeah when we found the valve springs were dead in my brothers 304 we found you could compress the springs with a big flat head screwdriver

  10. #40
    Registered User MartyRX2's Avatar
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    VS 5 litre low comp...rebuild time?

    Quote Originally Posted by Euronymous View Post
    Yeah when we found the valve springs were dead in my brothers 304 we found you could compress the springs with a big flat head screwdriver
    Good advice. The Camtech rep recommended at minimum removing one and sending it away to be tested. How did your brothers car drive with fucked springs?


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    Last edited by MartyRX2; 24-01-18 at 10:04 AM.

  11. #41
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    It was an auto Vn, Perkins kit, mild cam, small stall stock diff gears. It just felt dead as fuck all the time. Went through everything. Everyone said was something different. He took it to one dyno tuner (Barry) and he was the only one to say valve springs. Checked them and low and behold, dead as fuck.

  12. #42
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    Good'ol Barry.

  13. #43
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Had any luck with this?

  14. #44
    Registered User MartyRX2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euronymous View Post
    Had any luck with this?
    Iím in two minds whether to rebuild the engine with a heap of good bits(pistons cam etc) or just hold out and LS swap the thing. Itís a decision thatís influenced by both time and money. In the short term Iím busy getting my 4X4 back on the road. Another daily means I can park this up and take my time freshening it up. Rebuilding the 304 is the easiest way and will allow me to get back to my Datsun project which should be my priority.


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  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartyRX2 View Post
    Iím in two minds whether to rebuild the engine with a heap of good bits(pistons cam etc) or just hold out and LS swap the thing. Itís a decision thatís influenced by both time and money. In the short term Iím busy getting my 4X4 back on the road. Another daily means I can park this up and take my time freshening it up. Rebuilding the 304 is the easiest way and will allow me to get back to my Datsun project which should be my priority.


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    I wouldnt be putting an LS in it, just rebuild the 5L. Remember, most LS engines are a bit long in the tooth now and are likely to be just as tired at this point so you arent really gaining anything [ok, so youll gain a bit more power but...]. Id start with doing what the other boys have said. Give it a leak down test, check your cam lift, check the valve springs. Once you've eliminated all of those then start worrying about a rebuild.

    Also, this may sound bleedingly obvious but have you checked the ignition timing? Our old VQ went from absolute slug to respectable because the timing was out 4 deg.

  16. #46
    Emissions Friendly VW Sloth's Avatar
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    build a high comp 5oh. decent cam and intake and it should be fine.


    out of interest could it be a slack tranny or stally?
    Sloth: [Sloff] Noun, like Skompa but with euro shitboxen, a large bearded person, with a penchant for cider and garlic pizza.

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  17. #47
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Buy another $500 engine off scumtree to rebuild that way can keep driving yours.
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtrboyy View Post
    Buy another $500 engine off scumtree to rebuild that way can keep driving yours.
    They're like $1500.

  19. #49
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Scumtree or Fb...junk pops up eventually.

    Even ebay has rebuilder vn engine 5l/th700 for 950 no ecu,dissy,ign module.

    1500 can get you high mileage statesman or vt v8.
    Last edited by gtrboyy; 15-02-18 at 12:30 PM.
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  20. #50
    Registered User MartyRX2's Avatar
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    Ignition timing is good. I did a leak down check the other day too and itís leaking past rings pretty badly. Putting 100psi into the worst cylinder had air gushing out the dipstick hole. Auto and converter are fine. As much as Iíd like to buy another engine to freshen up itís just more money and a dead engine lying about when Iím finished. Iím really keen to do a back to back test on this engine pre/post rebuild. Might even document it all and put up some videos on YouTube.


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