Done a few MLS gaskets that have leaked with sweet fuck all evidence so its not unheard of for them to leak and not exactly look fucked.
I'm firmly in the fix, once over the tune and sell the fucking thing category. Next the box will shit the bed, then the diff, the the blower etc.
Fresh motor, clean dyno sheet, $10k on driftsales seeya later.
Your adub is a way better more reliable daily car, should of never let simmo run those red lights 40km/h over in that Lexcen
Last edited by dnegative; 30-12-17 at 08:58 PM.
Originally Posted by cracka
lol i was not keeping the lexcen for any longer than toyota nationals under any condition
im hearing you on the soarer, although its not that im afraid more shit will break. it's more just that having to go through all this bs has soured my experience. i probably should have just bought a nice clean unmolested JZS171 crown wagon instead like i was also considering. then again once i got the 9A going nicely in the adub i fell back in love with that car well and truly, so who knows. once this thing is sorted i might feel different about it
Last edited by trdee; 30-12-17 at 11:17 PM.
just confirmed - the injectors in it were indeed decapped. part number matches mazda 323 units
still baffles me why he used these when he had a full set of 7m 440s already...
Because 30+ year old injectors are just as shit, $350 for a brand new set of 8 of about the same size in a modern injector... https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...g302/overview/just confirmed - the injectors in it were indeed decapped. part number matches mazda 323 units
still baffles me why he used these when he had a full set of 7m 440s already...
or double the size for $550 https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...illocation=int
Finally found some motivation to get started on the engine loom. I dont have the patience to totally re do the loom, so I started by removing the charge/starter circuits since they were unfucked, and I will focus on just neatening the ecu/shift computer side of things, and putting in plugs where shit was hardwired etc
Good luck!
3x1UZ+1x2UR...
down the rabbit hole we go...
Lots of poor quality solder joins covered in poorly applied electrical tape
Have cut out and re-done most of it over the last 2 weeks, whilst also grouping together wires which had had to be cut to get the loom out of the car. Once it has all been sorted out, the cut wires will be terminated in a connector to allow the loom to be joined back up in a removable way once it is reinstalled in the car. Even the trans controller had been hardwired ffs. It now has some connectors:
Wow, that is some quality work you uncovered
3x1UZ+1x2UR...
Between trackdays, work trips, and Toyota Nationals I havent had a moment to work on this thing in the last 2 months. Got back into it yesterday and today and now the ECU side of the engine loom is starting to come together
Still lots more to go, injector wiring, CDI, water meth, bunch of other random shit in the engine bay etc. And then there is the small matter of the engine. The heads are currently getting serviced at a mate's and will hopefully be ready soon
wiring almost done now. injector connectors and neatening up a few things and then she is good to go. went over to foamy's on monday and pulled the sump off. lo and behold the sump still held a couple litres of oil. made a bit of a mess!!
heads are halfway through getting reco'd at the moment. hopefully this sad saga should be all over in a few weeks
The injector connectors needed to be swapped over, and it's a good thing that I was swapping them as the loom there was also fucked!
First things first, some cheap shit connectors off ebay
Then i start unwrapping the loom. No heatshrink here, just some poxy tape covering these solder joints, each injector had two sets of solder joints too for some reason....
New connectors in and loom cleaned up
Loom is more or less done now. Next up is putting a new set of brushes into the alternator and then when I have time I will fit some new heatshielding to the firewall
Looking great!
What's the go with the gearbox controller? Is that to manualise the auto or something? Name rings a bell
Well done on the loom, looking x1000 better already! I hope for your sake everything works properly 1st time around after re installing
1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
200B wagon
LOW AND SLOW STOCKER
It replaces the stock ecu which normally controls the gearbox. It controls line pressure, shift points, torque converter lockup etc. You can also wire up some inputs and have manual shifting yesWhat's the go with the gearbox controller? Is that to manualise the auto or something? Name rings a bell
Well done on the loom, looking x1000 better already! I hope for your sake everything works properly 1st time around after re installing
I also hope everything works first time cos I dont want to have to learn how to wire up all this shit! At the moment I am just re-joining like with like so that I can hopefully avoid that learning curve
Got any more info? This is relevant to my interests - I have a 1UZ + auto but nothing to control the auto.
Norbie!
It's pretty oldschool, uses hyperterminal etc lol: http://www.latentsolutions.com/suprastickuv.html
A friend of mine recently set up a shift computer using a microsquirt, apparently they are much more flexible, modern interface etc: https://www.diyautotune.com/
Mint, thanks for the info, that's helpful!
Norbie!
yeah so this took a back seat for a while. death in the family, racing the adub etc etc. getting back into it again now
new brushes for the alternator and terminal lugs for the starter
valve stem seals out and heads washed
next step is cleaning the valves and machining the heads i think, taking pointers from a mate here as ive never done a head reco myself before
note on ARP stud fitting without hacking the stud up... http://www.lextreme.com/forums/index...d-studs.15954/
heh the ARP studs in the bhg engine had already been hacked up :P
did not happen to blow between the middle cyls?
mechanic said leakdown test showed coolant leaking into cylinder 6. thats all he said
Last edited by trdee; 26-06-18 at 02:48 PM.
so that is a maybe... a lot of ARP stud installs I have seen are shit, no way you will get a reliable torque figure if the nut is not fully engaged on the stud by at least 1.5 threads or no or thin washer.
i will take care to make sure i get that shit right when it goes back together then!
The only issues I've heard of are where the hardened steel washer gets pressed into the aluminum head and you lose tension that way
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