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Thread: Rebuilt LS Breathing Like A Steam Train

  1. #31
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    From my build thread...


    Cunt's fucked. The teardown showed that the smoking and seizing was from the crank rubbing against the block and a main cap as well as one of the bearings.



    My mechanic stripped it all down and shipped it down to Abbott Engines for assessment. He's been busy and now over in the US so I haven't had a chance to speak to him about what's salvageable and where to go from here.

    I am still confused about how this has happened when the bottom end was turning over by hand and seemed fine when aligning the crank scraper. I don't pretend to know SFA about engines, is it possible that it's some sort of input shaft/bellhousing/pilot bearing issue?
    Last edited by neil_se; 10-09-17 at 08:43 PM.

  2. #32
    Goat roper Motherfucker Jones's Avatar
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    Yeah I'd say you've got some kind of gearbox issue and its smoked the thrust bearing out of it. There's not much else that can do that
    Quote Originally Posted by RVK 355 View Post
    Hold it flat cunt

  3. #33
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Thats some pretty wild crank walk
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  4. #34
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    You didn't have a ve t56 but Vz thrust bearing? Ve has longer input shaft

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    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  5. #35
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    From memory it's a T56-M12 (would need to check the part numbers again) but I wouldn't know which bearings were used.

    Looks like I should get the box down to Abbotts as well to make sure everything matches and clears.
    Last edited by neil_se; 10-09-17 at 10:38 PM.

  6. #36
    \/ \/ My motivation \/ \/ ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Was the box a bit tight pulling onto the dowels?
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  7. #37
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    My box is super tight pulling onto the motor and it's the factory combo (L98 and TUET8381 T56 with the TR6060 output flange). What are you thinking Chuck?

    Anyone care to suggest how to check the clutch isn't overthrowing once it's installed in the car?

  8. #38
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Overthrowing isnt an issue, well it, wont cause end float like this.

    Could you select gear or never got that far?
    If the input was jammed into the crank snout it would be a cunt to select gear and if the throwout was compressed into the diaphram springs the clutch would slip.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  9. #39
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    The box never just slid right up to the block, I always did it up with a small impact gun or ratchet as I'd seen my original mechanic do and never thought anything of it.

    When I had it all mounted up last I couldn't get it into gear without a fair amount force. Again I didn't think anything of it at the time as the clutch lines weren't primed and bled so I couldn't disengage it.

  10. #40
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    If clutch was overthrowing, I'd have thought you'd keep blowing out the clutch slave
    Japanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars

  11. #41
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Gearbox pics for anyone that know what they're looking at. Part number checks out as a T56-MM6.


  12. #42
    Registered User Paul M's Avatar
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    Does it look like the input shaft (right in front of the splines) has been grinding metal on metal in person (that what the picture looks like)

  13. #43
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil_se View Post
    Gearbox pics for anyone that know what they're looking at. Part number checks out as a T56-MM6.

    if I enhance that picture muchly it looks like the input shaft has been galling against the pilot bearing/(bush?) how does that look?

    doubt it has anything to do with the clutch IMAO

  14. #44
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I can't tell if it's that or just grease. Here it is cleaned up.


  15. #45
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    Did it have a needle roller or bush in the crank near the welch plug or a normal roller bearing closer to the crank flange?

  16. #46
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I'm not sure, with both rebuilds the mechanics assembled it including clutch . This is the only pic I have without the gearbox on.


  17. #47
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil_se View Post
    The box never just slid right up to the block, I always did it up with a small impact gun or ratchet as I'd seen my original mechanic do and never thought anything of it.

    When I had it all mounted up last I couldn't get it into gear without a fair amount force. Again I didn't think anything of it at the time as the clutch lines weren't primed and bled so I couldn't disengage it.
    Shouldn't need to rattle it on.

    That little dick only needs to be a few mm too long to cause the thrust bearing to be torched and all the other mess.

    Drift guy I know had the same issue and also toasted 2 motors till they realised the ve input was longer.

    My 0.02

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    Last edited by Dogsballs; 12-09-17 at 09:02 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogsballs View Post
    Drift guy I know had the same issue and also toasted 2 motors till they realised the ve input was longer.
    Braeden?

    I've also had an LS3 die the same way.

  19. #49
    Goat roper Motherfucker Jones's Avatar
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    Put the box on the motor with no clutch. Or even no flywheel if the spigot bearing is in the crank. You'll see pretty quick if the input shaft is trying to have a fight with the back of the crank
    Quote Originally Posted by RVK 355 View Post
    Hold it flat cunt

  20. #50
    Registered User 9triton's Avatar
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    put a cheezel in the spigot ...and measure crush

  21. #51
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Pulling the gearbox on with a rattle gun is a pretty good indication that shit ain't right. Having to pull the gearbox on with the bolts is generally a good indication you should pull it all apart and figure out why. On an Auto it's a great way to fuck the pump.... on a manual, it'll eat the thrusts.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  22. #52
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9triton View Post
    put a cheezel in the spigot ...and measure crush
    lol I had that typed out and deleted it because my alternate way of measuring with straightedges and vernier calipers was getting a bit too involved.

    if the input shaft is too long just put washers between the bellhousing and block


    a full sized shim of the proper thickness could work as the starter mounts to the block, but you might be able to get a low profile bearing or something to do it nicer, or cut the end off the input shaft if that is what is bottoming out.

  23. #53
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Pulling the gearbox on with a rattle gun is a pretty good indication that shit ain't right. Having to pull the gearbox on with the bolts is generally a good indication you should pull it all apart and figure out why. On an Auto it's a great way to fuck the pump.... on a manual, it'll eat the thrusts.
    I fucked the pump on the TH350 on the El Camino by doing it with not even a rattle gun but a pneumatic ratcheting wrench. That was a $150 fix.

    I fucked the alternator bracket on the VW by using cross-threading two bolts with a 3/8" drive ratchet. That was a $20 fix, plus $100 in tools I suppose. A mate told me that, in the future, use a 1/4" drive ratchet to start. Because if you can't get it on with that, it's either cross-threaded or you're using the wrong bolt in the wrong hole. It's good advice...

  24. #54
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Pulling pretty much anything together with bolts is generally a bad idea, been there and fucked shit before lol
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  25. #55
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by afraid View Post
    Braeden?

    I've also had an LS3 die the same way.
    Yep

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    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  26. #56
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    It wasn't so much that it needed the force of a rattle gun to pull it together (I was only using my small Makita cordless), but just the lazy way I guess.

    Safe to say I need to get the box down the engine builders. The correct bearing seems to be the likely fix, otherwise I can get a 3 and 6mm spacer places from Mal Wood.

  27. #57
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    Fair enough. It should just push together on the dowels though
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  28. #58
    Registered User TurbostyleR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogsballs View Post
    Fair enough. It should just push together on the dowels though
    This is my thoughts exactly.

    What a cunt of a way to learn this lesson though Neil.
    A man can never step into the same river twice. Because, it's not the same river, it's not the same man.

  29. #59
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    I feel you Neil. I've had my T56 and L98 apart about 3 times and the cunt is heavy and snug. It has relief slots to pry them apart and using the bolts to pull it snug is about the only way without rigidly mounting the motor high off the ground or giving yourself a hernia. You have me a little concerned but the only thing I've changed is the clutch and spigot bearing but both are for LS engines. I'm sure yours were too!

  30. #60
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    I put my T56 in two seperate parts, makes getting the bellhousing bolts in a piece of cake. Then slide the box in and do the bolts up around the intermediate housing.
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