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Thread: Fucking Minis v2.0

  1. #1
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    Fucking Minis v2.0

    if you read the "fucking Minis" thread, you'll see I bought this car from Cliffordcliffs and picked it up on the weekend.
    Today I opened up the motor for a look inside.
    I'll give it a quick hone and re-ring job and do a bit of work to the head. I was also curious to measure the CR and see what camshaft it had in it.
    I might also take the opportunity to open the ring gaps up a bit, just in case I feel like ramming some extra air into it in the future

    I'll get the motor sorted over the next couple of weeks, then move onto prepping and painting the body.

    Pic from day 1:

  2. #2
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


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    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    What?! No LS swap? /i

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    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

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    You know nothing of Mini engines do you?

    See that tiny little bore, and that long stroke. They are particular about rings and the bedding in of rings. I know it's a fuck around, but I'd leave it well alone. Put it in and run it, to find out how good it is. If it has an issue, deal with it. The last thing I'd do is hone and rering it. They just don't respond to that as larger bore engines do.

    As for widening ring gaps for boost, again, that's not the way it works on Minis.

    These things I know.
    " I didn't have $$$$$, so I thought I'd build a car instead" : Ron Tauranac

  5. #5
    VW Service Bloke Sloth's Avatar
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    or save yourself years of fuckerey like a workmate, who spunked 15k into a turbo a series for 200bhp.

    buy a b18, add turbo, make 350bhp easily. save 10k.+

    he wishes he did it years ago.
    Quote Originally Posted by Marty! View Post
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    You guys are way over-complicating this. Just rebuild it to standard Cooper S spec and enjoy having a car thats a ball to drive and didnt cost 11ty thousand to build and 900000 man hours of fab.

    G13B is another swap that used to do the rounds back in the day...

  7. #7
    Resident Expert too_much_boost's Avatar
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    Any non-mini engine in a round nose is pretty tight. It can be done of course but takes a bit of thinking and a fair bit of cutting, then engineering

    I have a G13B driveline with turbo kit in the garage if you are interested though
    Disclaimer: I may have no idea what I am talking about

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    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    I have a copy of the Vizard book here if you want to borrow it.

    Agree with the above - bolt it together and see if it makes power or not. Just check your diff ratio and whether you've got a decent cam in it before putting it in the car because they're a pain to change afterwards.

  9. #9
    Registered User clutch-monkey's Avatar
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    Keep mini engine but if you want more go then 7 port head or twin cam head.

    I'm leaving mine in cooper S spec because there are other cars to actually go fast in haha

  10. #10
    Moderator Cal's Avatar
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    I'm so glad you are doing this. Then you can teach me all the stuff I both forgot and never knew about them. Thanks man!
    The most dangerous risk of all - the risk of spending your life not doing what you want, on the bet you can buy yourself the freedom to do it later. - Randy Komisar.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy928tt View Post
    You know nothing of Mini engines do you?

    See that tiny little bore, and that long stroke. They are particular about rings and the bedding in of rings. I know it's a fuck around, but I'd leave it well alone. Put it in and run it, to find out how good it is. If it has an issue, deal with it. The last thing I'd do is hone and rering it. They just don't respond to that as larger bore engines do.

    As for widening ring gaps for boost, again, that's not the way it works on Minis.

    These things I know.
    I've rebuild many engines before, but this is my first A-Series.
    I was hoping to leave it alone, but there were issues that had to be fixed.......

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    I have a copy of the Vizard book here if you want to borrow it.

    Agree with the above - bolt it together and see if it makes power or not. Just check your diff ratio and whether you've got a decent cam in it before putting it in the car because they're a pain to change afterwards.
    I've got Vizards book thanks
    I haven't yet measured the diff ratio, but I have measured the cam. I think it's a little too big for an otherwise stock-ish motor and it could do with a bump in compression and some porting to make it work properly. I may build a better thing later on, but the goal with this one is just to patch it up and make it run for now.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    I have a copy of the Vizard book here if you want to borrow it.

    Agree with the above - bolt it together and see if it makes power or not. Just check your diff ratio and whether you've got a decent cam in it before putting it in the car because they're a pain to change afterwards.
    This. That's a good block - thick flange and no side plates to leak - and crank. Just bolt back together, don't go too crazy. Do the bodywork first, assemble engine last.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 36 View Post
    This. That's a good block - thick flange and no side plates to leak - and crank. Just bolt back together, don't go too crazy. Do the bodywork first, assemble engine last.
    That was the plan, however a quick look with a borescope told me that the little bit of coolant sitting on #2 piston should be addressed sooner rather than later The gasket looked ok, the head will be crack tested.

    I like knowing all the details, so I was happy to rip into it and measure the capacity, camshaft, compression and see what part # crank it had etc etc.
    Turns out it's 0.040" over, so 1310cc. It will live again in this configuration, but will have to go 0.060" over if I decide to go through it again in years to come.

  14. #14
    Mechanical 'Tard Cliffordcliffs's Avatar
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    Uuheels is being more then a little bit diplomatic. I told him it had a stout motor which was true the last time I had it running. Turns out sticking it away in the corner of the shed for almost three years is not a good idea, coupled with me having nfi and trusting the wrong people to take care of it means it needs a rebuild. At least the gearbox should be top notch.

    There must be cheaper ways for self flagellation (but maybe not so painful) as doing a rebuild on a car you bought in boxes and in bits based on stories from some random punter.

    I hope to redeem myself by lending a hand where possible.
    Last edited by Cliffordcliffs; 29-05-18 at 09:14 PM.
    "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

  15. #15
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    I used to restore minis for a living for a while. Still have a soft spot for them.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  16. #16
    Mechanical 'Tard Cliffordcliffs's Avatar
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    So many people coming out of the closet. They really do tick a lot of the boxes for ‘car people
    "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

  17. #17
    Registered User LB-XP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliffordcliffs View Post
    So many people coming out of the closet. They really do tick a lot of the boxes for ‘car people
    Yeah, i will admit I had a mini as well. I had one when i was at school.

    It was orange, it was lowered, it had wide steel wheels, It scrapped on everything, it was slow but it ruled as far as I was concerned.

    Constantly broke those stupid rubber driveshaft flanges, probably from me hooning around i suppose.

    It never had a fuel gauge that worked the whole time i owned it, so there was a wooden dipstick stored in the boot that told me how much fuel was left in the tank. That reminds me, the speedo never worked as well.

    Headlight wiring caught fire late one night while we were driving in the middle of nowhere, so we had to drive the whole way home holding the stalk on full beam manually. The smoke from the electrical fire was extremely rancid and burnt my eyes. My mates in the car also suffered obviously when this happened.

    Funniest thing that happened in that car on another occasion was driving accidentally into a deep big puddle on the road one night at high speed. The water burst through the gearshift hole in the floor like a fire hydrant and hit the headliner like a canon, filling the interior with about a 100L of water instantly and soaking me to the bone.

    Good times. Good cars.

    Looking forward to the updates on your build!
    Last edited by LB-XP; 29-05-18 at 09:48 PM.

  18. #18
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    It's a few months away, but colour choice and the option to use flares is doing my head in.

    I think my preference is for 10" wheels and no flares.
    However, this car has 12" wheels that need 2" flares and 8.4" brakes, so to go back to 10's without flares will mean replacing the brakes for 7.5" rotors and matching calipers and buying new the 10" wheels of course.
    I think the flares and larger wheels make them look a bit too modern, like the Rover minis. I also like the full length chrome wheel arch and sill moulding. Some people put this on a car with flares but I think it often looks shit.

    So colours.. This car's original colour was Seamist Green with white roof, like this:


    I like to paint old cars in their original paint and initially I was all for this colour, but the more pics I look at the more I think it looks too grandma spec and it almost needs flares to give it some cred.


    Next option is a medium grey with white roof, exhibit B:



    Last option is the obligatory BRG (it's actually a different green, but you get the idea):

    This car has flares and the wheel arch trims. It almost gets away with it, but I cant help focussing on the flares and I think it detracts from the appearence.

    Sigh....

    Opinions?

  19. #19
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    If it were me id avoid BRG, Red or English White - pretty much every mini in existence are painted these colours. Id be going for one of the other factory/period colours w/ 10" wheels in Monte-Carlo rally style. Like such.



    https://silodrome.com/mini-cooper-cafe-racer/

  20. #20
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    I don't thimk I should comment on colours

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  21. #21
    Registered User clutch-monkey's Avatar
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    the great thing about mini's is that you can paint them whatever colour you want pretty much.
    mine started as white. actual fridge paint white, applied by roller by previous owner.


    i then fitted enormous 10" wheels, painted it in ford bluprint with white roof from rattle cans (i did redo it with a gun later) and found flares that are still too small for the wheels.




    then i got it painted properly in a lotus exige green, and got some flares that fit from mr purple


  22. #22
    VW Service Bloke Sloth's Avatar
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    minis look good in paler pastel shades.

    something like a pale lemon with white roof etc.
    Quote Originally Posted by Marty! View Post
    I like cars. Cars are cool.


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  23. #23
    Jak Sie Masz! trent from punchy's Avatar
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    So what's the going price for something that will run with a bit of DIY home work?

    My son loves them and wants one as his first car.
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  24. #24
    Moderator Cal's Avatar
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    I like them without flares. This is the look I'm going for, albeit in Indigo Blue.

    The most dangerous risk of all - the risk of spending your life not doing what you want, on the bet you can buy yourself the freedom to do it later. - Randy Komisar.

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    I tend to agree Cal.
    I may have to sell off the 12"/8.4" stuff and replace with 10"/7.5" stuff.

    I think the grey is winning at the moment, in my mind anyway. Nobody has actually commented on the three colour options I put forward

    Roy, you are definitely excused from colour discussions

  26. #26
    Resident Expert too_much_boost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trent from punchy View Post
    So what's the going price for something that will run with a bit of DIY home work?
    Depends on alot of things. Condition, year, model etc. They are going up so the longer you wait the worse condition they will be and more they will cost

    Rusty shitheap leyland will only be a couple grand. Rust free early morris will cost alot more
    Disclaimer: I may have no idea what I am talking about

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by uuheels View Post
    I tend to agree Cal.
    I may have to sell off the 12"/8.4" stuff and replace with 10"/7.5" stuff.

    I think the grey is winning at the moment, in my mind anyway. Nobody has actually commented on the three colour options I put forward

    Roy, you are definitely excused from colour discussions
    Colours: The Grandma spec is exactly that. BRG is great, but very common. The grey is a bit more unusual. And perhaps a little closer in spirit to the original colour.

  28. #28
    Moderator Cal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uuheels View Post
    Nobody has actually commented on the three colour options I put forward
    That first olive green or grey. Don't ever paint it BRG.
    Last edited by Cal; 30-05-18 at 01:24 PM.
    The most dangerous risk of all - the risk of spending your life not doing what you want, on the bet you can buy yourself the freedom to do it later. - Randy Komisar.

  29. #29
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    Fiesta Yellow is a cool original Mk.1 colour...




    Saxon green is another, but I may be a little biased (see my signature)

  30. #30
    Mechanical 'Tard Cliffordcliffs's Avatar
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    Fucking Minis v2.0

    What about some of the beiges? Period looking like sugarcane or clay beige?

    There’s a few nice bmc greys as a second choice.

    Minis look way tougher on 10”s. I don’t by think you will notice any decline in braking performance going to smaller discs. The generic innocenti style plastic flares are not really special but the f/g ones seem to be hit and miss fitment wise.


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    Last edited by Cliffordcliffs; 30-05-18 at 01:30 PM.
    "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

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