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Thread: Electric/hydraulic trailer disc brake setups

  1. #1
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Electric/hydraulic trailer disc brake setups

    Need to do something in this arena as my camper trailer is weighing more and more everytime I add shit to it and take it out. Will be easily over a tonne fully loaded and on the way up once I've got a few other things sorted out like extra water tanks, shower, storage and what not.

    There's plenty of off the shelf electric drum brake kits but most are generic old falcon/holden 5 stud pattern and my current setup is 6 stud (with brand new polished alloys and good muddies!). Obviously 6 stud versions also exist but I'm torn as to which way I want to go.

    Current tow rig is an Amarok dual cab that runs 5 x 120 pattern and 17" 33's for play. Trailer runs 6 x 139 and 15" 31's. Not a drama towing it generally but can get a bit hairy coming down steep mountain ranges if needing to pull up in a hurry as the rok is an auto so no engine braking to speak of and generally on the anchors anyway when pointing downhill. Rok does have upgraded slotted and dimpled rotors and bendix commercial grade pads, seems to stop pretty well. Not above doing a proper disc and caliper upgrade on this in future if easily obtainable for reasonable money (6 pot toureag calipers and commodore discs or something?).


    Should I:

    1. Just buy an off the shelf 6 stud electric drum brake kit, keep my current trailer wheels and tyres and be done with it as probably the cheapest option.

    2. Do same but go with 5 stud kit, sell flash new wheels and tyres, run a spare set of Amarok spec wheels on the trailer so have extra spares on board if needed. Cool but requires another 3-4 wheels and 33" muddies so not the cheapest exercise.

    3. Adapt a basic 6 stud landcruiser or whatever easily fits hydraulic disc brake setup onto the trailer, try to find an electric over hydraulic brake actuator that isn't $1000, never have to deal with setting up drums and easily be able to find spare pads and other brake parts.

    4. Same as above with electric over hydraulic but convert everything to Amarok spec brakes and wheels. Ultimate option for spares, adaptability and overall braking performance but undoubtedly the most expensive, plus no doubt lots of ginning about with fab and offsets to get everything to fit and work properly.

    At this stage looking to keep both truck and trailer for at least the next 5 years, possibly longer and do lots more trips away. The camper trailer is a basic but sturdy proper off road box trailer camper that I got for free and have been kitting out bit by bit.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
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  2. #2
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    As it currently sits.

    Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
    My entire working career pretty much consists of suckin dick and takin names.

    Sometimes im too busy to take names.

  3. #3
    Registered User Paul M's Avatar
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    What bearings does that axle take at the moment - that may limit/define you options.

    Not sure what your budget is but marshall engineering do a complete kit (including springs, etc.) for $800 - http://www.marshall-eng.com.au/Single_Axle_DIY.html, have a look at them. BTW they will put a kit together for what you need.

  4. #4
    Registered User TRD-MX62's Avatar
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    heavy on a single axle trailer is begging for getting bogged aside from that definitely nice to have the same wheels and tires on the trailer.

    Would buy two axles with ends to suit your front and rear hubs throw extra axle under trailer while you're messing with it and enjoy really good brakes, the ability to run lower pressures on the trailer so you don't shake it to bits and if shit happens you can steal a wheel/hub off the trailer and limp it on 3 or 2.

  5. #5
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul M View Post
    What bearings does that axle take at the moment - that may limit/define you options.

    Not sure what your budget is but marshall engineering do a complete kit (including springs, etc.) for $800 - http://www.marshall-eng.com.au/Single_Axle_DIY.html, have a look at them. BTW they will put a kit together for what you need.
    No idea, never taken them apart. First time I've even had the wheels off (and I reckon the first time since brand new) was last week when I put the alloys and muddies one. Will check out the link though and have a squizz.

    Quote Originally Posted by TRD-MX62 View Post
    heavy on a single axle trailer is begging for getting bogged aside from that definitely nice to have the same wheels and tires on the trailer.

    Would buy two axles with ends to suit your front and rear hubs throw extra axle under trailer while you're messing with it and enjoy really good brakes, the ability to run lower pressures on the trailer so you don't shake it to bits and if shit happens you can steal a wheel/hub off the trailer and limp it on 3 or 2.
    Bigger wheels and muddies to prevent getting bogged is why I put them on, but not driving like a spastic generally solves that problem anyway. It's a box trailer at the end of the day though so dual axle is way over the top.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
    My entire working career pretty much consists of suckin dick and takin names.

    Sometimes im too busy to take names.

  6. #6
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    All the people I know that have used electric brakes rate them so I would go with electric drums. An electric over hydraulic disc setup can be bought but they are fucking expensive my old boss had a few boats with that setup.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lord_fahrquhar View Post
    The au put the fucking tunnel in with the bullbar. Even Chuck Norris respects the ability of the au coon.

  7. #7
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    I have elecy brakes on my trailer ......... and trailer x 2 before that. Would not tow without them

  8. #8
    Compulsive modifier awdmoke's Avatar
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    For an off-road trailer I'd opt for mechanical override disc brakes.
    Simple, waterproof, and reliable. No hydraulic reservoir to smash and no sand/mud/dust filling the drums.
    About $360 for a pair to suit 6 stud rims.
    Lots of minis & mokes including a G13b powered Sports Sedan, a couple of Swift Gtis, a Goggomobil, 928S, Polo Gti, BMW 540i, a WRX and a Navara with the deadly ZD30

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