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Thread: Cooling issue

  1. #1
    PF's #1 soft roader advocate Captiva Fan's Avatar
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    Cooling issue

    Had a WTF yesterday, engine temp needle started slowly heading north while in traffic, but moving freely again didn't help at all. Turning the heater+fan on did, brought it down pretty quickly.
    The fact that moving didn't help with cooling made me think it isn't a fan problem; if it was a fan problem, it would be a problem with getting air through the rad & just moving would've helped (I'd expect?).

    Volvo SOHC engine; water-pump attached to bottom-hose, pushes water through engine which returns to radiator through top hose (assume this is normal for most/all engines but don't know for sure). e-Fan run off ECU which uses std engine temp sensor, but as stated above don't think this is an airflow problem.

    Pulled into a servo, looked for leaks or missing coolant; no problem. Level in overflow still OK. Didn't really know what else to look for; radiator itself felt hot, top hose felt pressurised & hot. Didn't think to feel bottom-hose. Gave the top hose a bit of a squeeze ("air bubble" I had no idea) and got a bit of a burp/bubble in the overflow tank.

    The rest of the drive it seemed to stay under control. Now being paranoid I wasn't sure, it seemed to get hot a few times but would always drop down again by itself.

    Thoughts? Pressure in the top hose means thermostat & pump must be working?
    It seems like some sort of radiator blockage, doesn't it?
    Last edited by Captiva Fan; 24-09-17 at 12:07 PM.
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  2. #2
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Does the fan work?
    Is the radiator full of coolant - full overflow doesnt mean full radiator
    Pull and check the thermostat
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  3. #3
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    Dud thermostat and/or blocked radiator.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  4. #4
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    If jims suggestions are no go.

    As dnegative said, correct level in overflow doesn't mean happy system.
    Parents' magna did similar with small BHG was pushing a little bit of gas into the cooling system with similar symptoms. If it is only just starting to fail it won't blow bubbles at idle but will push gas at higher load while driving, changing the flow path to include heater breaks airlock/ lets stuff move. I was driving it at one point and just turning off the ac (and thus giving 100%cool air to rad) with the reduced coolant flow from the gas buildup was enough to pull the needle back down, likewise cycling heater. Radiator was fine.
    Last edited by Slides; 24-09-17 at 11:17 PM.

  5. #5
    PF's #1 soft roader advocate Captiva Fan's Avatar
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    I guess then, best way forward is replace thermostat/coolant and monitor?
    If no good, pull radiator and get checked for blockage? [and if that ... farque ]
    Soft roaders represent an excellent compromise between the needs of the hardcore 4x4 user and the convenience of a city hatchback. Its clear to see why they have become so popular in todays society.

  6. #6
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    I'd give it a pressure test to check for any leaks then if ok bleed system a couple of times....found hairline crack in my radiator that way.

    Probably just not driven in a while then shit at brick at warm/hot weather change.

    A mate used one of those ir guns on his monaro radiator was still blocked after radiator joint 'flushed & serviced it'
    Last edited by gtrboyy; 25-09-17 at 12:25 AM.
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  7. #7
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    Take the thermostat out and drop it in boiling water. This will test its operation. If it doesn't fully open then it's fucked.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  8. #8
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    I don't even bother testing thermostats, they're generally cheap enough on older stuff to simply replace. Same with the radiator cap. When was the last time you flushed the coolant?

  9. #9
    PF's #1 soft roader advocate Captiva Fan's Avatar
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    Yeah the coolant is more expensive than the thermostat, so given I'd be replacing the coolant regardless I might's well put a fresh thermostat in.
    And I'd probably be ordering from OS anyway, may as well get an overflow-bottle cap just in case.

    It's probably been 3-5 years (maybe 500km-1000km) since I last pulled the turbo & replaced the coolant, but I've never actively "flushed" it at all per se; what's the go there, garden hose in the top of the radiator?
    *edit*
    Ignore prior question, Mr Google has provided procedures.
    Last edited by Captiva Fan; 25-09-17 at 02:58 PM.
    Soft roaders represent an excellent compromise between the needs of the hardcore 4x4 user and the convenience of a city hatchback. Its clear to see why they have become so popular in todays society.

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