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Thread: XR6 Turbo Circuit Racer

  1. #1
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    XR6 Turbo Circuit Racer

    Hi All,

    Been a long long time since I've been around here but I thought I'd share my latest money pit and use PF knowledge to help get to be something decent.

    After years of half finishing projects and selling them combined with prioritizing kids etc I decided to find myself a toy that was reasonable ex-factory and parts could be obtained reasonably easily locally for when I busted it. I settled on a 04 BA XR6 Turbo, 270,000kms, 5 speed manual. It had sort of been looked after with a glove box full of receipts, had a new clutch and turbo, rear muffler deleted and had been lowered at some stage. For $4500 it seemed like a decent place to start.

    Knowing nothing about turbo cars I dragged an empty trailer 300kms to have a look and after a 20 minute test drive I dragged it home. It had leather seats and a sunroof but otherwise seemed perfect.


    I got it home, stripped interior out (sold the seats for a good return) and went shopping in tightarse fashion. I found a set of 18x9.5 Rota Streetfighters with near new Advan Neova 265's fitted for 1k. Found a brand new Cobra GT seat for $700 from an abandoned project and went and bought a new harness as all the old ones were fucked. I chucked an OMP steering wheel on I had laying about and proceeded to enter a club day to see what I'd bought. To ensure I hadn't purchased a complete lemon I chucked it on my mates dyno for a quick power run which showed 180rwkw. He did point out some weird stuff on it though such as an adjustable full reg before the factory fuel reg, turbosmart blowoff valve and a PWR intercooler. It was a little bit lean but it seemed about right for a stocker I thought so I went out to have fun.

    Everything started fine until about 4 laps in it decided to not rev over about 3500rpm. Went fine up until then but it was like it was really lean. Short shifting fixed it but wasn't exactly full getting rounded up by skylines. It also seemed to like to piss oil out from under the rocker covers. Not ideal. I guessed the rings were showing their 270kms but it still ran ok without rattlings. I had a Walbro 255 pump spare that I hadn't fitted but the fuel tank was too full to get the pot out so I rolled about learning lines on the circuit before that got boring and I loaded it up.

    When I got home and pulled the pump out I fund it already had a 255 pump in it but also the flexible tube from the pump to the outlet had been replaced by a rubber fuel line that had pretty much perished. Easy fixed and explained the lean outs.

    I'd continued shopping and had bought middle muffle delete pipes so it ran no mufflers and was straight twin 2.5" from the cat back. I figured I'd leave the cat in for now to stop overboost until I had the wastegate ported. It was loud but I didn't care.

    I also bit the bullet and ordered a full cage from Bonds. $1900 delivered was cheap and a local fabricator would weld it off cheap if I notched and tacked it together. Was an absolute prick of a job due to the number of bars but it came together ok. The door bars along with the size of the seat make it fun to get in and out of but it'll have to do.

    Rocker cover gasket was replaced. While it was apart some -10 fittings were installed and 3 litre catch can fitted. Battery got shifted to the boot. Intake re-jigged and pod fitted. An aeroflow fuel rail was fitted to allow the multiple fuel regs to be ditched and the adjustable one retained (now with a gauge on it). The car was stickered up to cams spec and I entered a local hillclimb due to the fact the scrutineer was also the cams log book inspector so I could get both done on the same day.

    As per last time we did a last minute power run on the dyno to check all was good. Lean out was fixed and after a few adjustments fuel pressure seemed ok. Old mate plugged the ecu in to discover it had a tune in it (and the ecu was locked) and the car was looking for 10psi but only had 4. All the hoses were checked looking for a leak and nothing found. After lots and lots of head scratching we ditched the boost solenoid and put a tee in it. Found our missing boost however it still only spat out 200rwkw. Something still wasn't right and the diagnosis seemed to be 'pootune' but we ran out of time so decided to run as it was.

    At the track it had noticeably more power which highlighted the cars lack of desire to turn corners or spin the wheels out of the slow corners. Tried 2-3 different lines and slowly got faster throughout the day but wasn't really winning. I hadn't played or even checked what tyre pressure due to inexperience but on what was meant to be my 2nd last run the combination of no grip and over exuberance saw my spin around twice, straight over a culvert let by the weeks heavy rain which buckled a rim under the car and bent 2 suspension arms. Game over again.

    Got the car home, replaced all the busted bits and bought another rim so the cars now back together ready to go again. I've also replaced the front and rear sway bars with whiteline adjustables and started at the hardest setting at both ends. Camber has been set at the maximum factory setting front and rear so hopefully that may help. Have also replaced the electronic wastegate solenoid with a new one two so hopefully that helps too.

    Fibreglass Xr8 bonnet has found it's way on. Cage has been painted since the below pics (I passed logbook inspection before crashing) and the sound deadener has been removed from the interior. I'm a weight Nazi now and anything that cant justify it's spot is going but I'm keeping the car kinda street legal incase Targa lands inside the budget one day.

    Just really need to get some laps in the car and to get it set up half decent. I'm tight and like to do things myself but setting camber etc at home presents challenges to me so I've open for advice.









    Last edited by ahk068; 25-09-17 at 06:55 PM.

  2. #2
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    I'll be watching closely, although I cant't see your pictures. I have my old daily ba xr6 turbo sitting in the driveway at home that i've been toying with the same idea.

  3. #3
    I'm Johnny Hotfuck Greasystick's Avatar
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    Photobucket pictures are borked for me. Anyone else?

    PS the fix is to put "~original" after the .jpg in your links.

  4. #4
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    fixed I think. Let me know

  5. #5
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    If you are on a budget you should have chosen a jap car. MX5?? Too late now I would say. Once you get it sorted it will be fun all the same.
    NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VP 293KW- P.I 1:46.0 WNTN 1:33.5

  6. #6
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    mx5's and people with knowledge of them are pretty thin on the ground down here plus I can't cut hair. it owes me about 10k as it sits which I'm pretty comfortable with.

  7. #7
    Peoples Champ Fatboy's Avatar
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    Looks like fun mate. Shorten your belts though, you've got a bar a few inches behind your seat - use it...

  8. #8
    Registered User schnitzelburger's Avatar
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    this looks like a bunch of fun for not much money
    Turbo NB MX5: more derp less carbon lightyear clone
    Supra sold it: 1983 MA61 Supra - 2JZ-GTE + 6spd

    ohsdocs.com.au Safe Work Method Statements and other OH&S paperwork for builders and tradies, PF members PM me I'll do you a good deal.

  9. #9
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    Another Turbo Taxi! You should make friends with Nelsonian101 on here, he runs the same car, has done for a few years, you might be able to get some tips from him.

  10. #10
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    How much does a stripped out Falcon weigh?

  11. #11
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy928tt View Post
    How much does a stripped out Falcon weigh?
    dunno. leather seats etc weighed heaps along with all the rest of the interior but my guess is the cage would be about the same given its speced to allow me to run in Targa. everything on these cars is heavy. next job is to attack the doors to remove intrusion bars and as much metal as possible.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahk068 View Post
    dunno. leather seats etc weighed heaps along with all the rest of the interior but my guess is the cage would be about the same given its speced to allow me to run in Targa. everything on these cars is heavy. next job is to attack the doors to remove intrusion bars and as much metal as possible.
    That cage looks to be around about 60kg, give or take. You should be well ahead of that on weight savings with the stripped out interior. Weight saving is the cheapest way to improve your lap times, you are definitely doing the right thing there. Another useful thing to do is remove all the surplus brackets, get yourself a spot weld drill and go nuts. And have you got everything out from behind the dash, heater etc? Maybe not if you are going to keep it registered, but the air con could go.

  13. #13
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprinkles View Post
    That cage looks to be around about 60kg, give or take. You should be well ahead of that on weight savings with the stripped out interior. Weight saving is the cheapest way to improve your lap times, you are definitely doing the right thing there. Another useful thing to do is remove all the surplus brackets, get yourself a spot weld drill and go nuts. And have you got everything out from behind the dash, heater etc? Maybe not if you are going to keep it registered, but the air con could go.
    Heater is still in and 99% of the dash in place still along with Glove box etc. I'm being torn between weight saving and making still look sorta neat. Rego isn't really a concern but as I have a Cams Clubman Rally license I can get SI rego on it here if I choose to do the rally stuff. The fact I have a fundamental fear of trees will probably stop me.

    Air con condenser etc have all gone but pump remains until I can make a pulley for the belt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahk068 View Post
    Heater is still in and 99% of the dash in place still along with Glove box etc. I'm being torn between weight saving and making still look sorta neat. .
    Yeah, I get that. If you leave the dash in but remove everything else it will look OK, and will save you heaps of weight. Have you got a lightweight battery for it? That should be a 10kg weight saving over lead.

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    Where did you get the boss kit for the steering wheel? been looking for similar for mine

  16. #16
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blingcommander View Post
    Where did you get the boss kit for the steering wheel? been looking for similar for mine
    got it off a speedway racer. they love ba-fg coons

  17. #17
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    I quite like this. Good work.
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Sports Sedan

  18. #18
    Registered User nelsonian101's Avatar
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    Excellent project.

    Did you find the boost leak as 200rwkw seems low?

    Throttle body connector often leaks. Are the intercooler pipes alloy or rubber?

    A lot more front neg camber can be achieved by drilling holes in the upper control arms brackets and simply changing the bolt hole position in the FGs. Not sure about the BA's though. A bit of toe out at the front helps a lot too. More neg camber makes a huge difference with these cars as does stripping weight from the front with battery, bonnet etc

    What are the spring rates and what suspension does it have? I found a softer setting on the rear bar was better.

    Which track are you taking it too?

    35 psi hot is a good setting for these heavy cars with the AD08R's. Very important to get close to this as if you haven't checked, they may be closer to 45psi hot.

    What brakes/pads/fluid is it running? So hard to stop these cars consistently

    Power steering fluid also doesn't last long.

    I also recommend an engine oil cooler.

    As mentioned, awesome project and hopefully will catch up with this car at the circuit soon!
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  19. #19
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nelsonian101 View Post
    Excellent project.

    Did you find the boost leak as 200rwkw seems low? Yes it's low and never found any leaks. It was showing up to 12psi on the dyno with a manual tap fitted instead of boost solenoid so I don't think boost is the issue. Not sure if the manual tap would confuse the tune or something else is wrong. AFR's were ok.

    Throttle body connector often leaks. Are the intercooler pipes alloy or rubber? Rubber

    A lot more front neg camber can be achieved by drilling holes in the upper control arms brackets and simply changing the bolt hole position in the FGs. Not sure about the BA's though. A bit of toe out at the front helps a lot too. More neg camber makes a huge difference with these cars as does stripping weight from the front with battery, bonnet etc

    Battery is in boot, bonnet is now glass. I'll have a look at the top arm brackets to see how much room there is to drill holes.

    What are the spring rates and what suspension does it have? I found a softer setting on the rear bar was better. Dunno what spring rates are.

    Which track are you taking it too? Baskerville

    35 psi hot is a good setting for these heavy cars with the AD08R's. Very important to get close to this as if you haven't checked, they may be closer to 45psi hot.

    What brakes/pads/fluid is it running? So hard to stop these cars consistently Standard FPV brakes, only has ultimate pads in it atm, fluid is the same stuff that came in it

    Power steering fluid also doesn't last long.

    I also recommend an engine oil cooler. good advice

    As mentioned, awesome project and hopefully will catch up with this car at the circuit soon!
    as above

  20. #20
    Registered User INFLYT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
    this looks like a bunch of fun for not much money

  21. #21
    I'm Johnny Hotfuck Greasystick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahk068 View Post
    fixed I think. Let me know
    Good as gold now. Nice taxi!

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