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Thread: XR6 Turbo Circuit Racer

  1. #31
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    Correct, some had upper outer adjusters, superpro do an offset inner bush too SPF2413K (i can do a deal on price if interested) that will give or take half a degree of camber.

    this is how mine sits currently, this is V2, V1 had the upper balljoint binding on big bumps so have slightly gone up and out a bit. where mine is now gives an extra degree negative camber and seems to have no binding issues. i got extra negative camber as well because my lower control arms have been extended 15mm
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahk068 View Post
    Car tips into the fast corners really nicely but really struggles to keep front grip on the slow stuff which is frustrating. .
    Try a softer setting on your front sway bar, and stiffer setting on your rear sway bar to counter this.

  3. #33
    Registered User adamRSLC's Avatar
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    Bling, little off topic, is it Fulcrum with the Hunter aligner?
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  4. #34
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    Yeah mate. I manage the workshop in pakenham

  5. #35
    Registered User adamRSLC's Avatar
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    Dave Stewarts old shop?
    Sandown 1.23.31
    Calder 1.05.76
    Phillip Island 1.47.95
    Winton 1.33.30
    H/Hills hill climb 1.03.3(FG XR6T)
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  6. #36
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    Update

    Did this


    Bought these because the original ones were buggered. They're blue and a little shorter which might help the arse squat a little more



    I put them here



    I found the rear camber adjustment eccentric bolt too. Wound it around the max and with a magnetic degree gauge it gave me about 2 degrees neg on the rear which has to be an improvement.

    Dump pipe will come out Sunday so the wastegate flapper can be ported for a bit of insurance which will in turn allow me to cut the cat out altogether.
    Last edited by ahk068; 08-12-17 at 07:15 PM.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by blingcommander View Post
    Correct, some had upper outer adjusters, superpro do an offset inner bush too SPF2413K (i can do a deal on price if interested) that will give or take half a degree of camber.

    this is how mine sits currently, this is V2, V1 had the upper balljoint binding on big bumps so have slightly gone up and out a bit. where mine is now gives an extra degree negative camber and seems to have no binding issues. i got extra negative camber as well because my lower control arms have been extended 15mm
    Any pics/details on how you did it?

    Means well but is skittled


  8. #38
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    Pulled the turbo and front half of the exhaust off tonight. Cunt of a job but it gave me a few more issues to address but hopefully will address my missing kilowatts.

    Firstly turbo was only held on with 3 studs. One obviously fell out. There didn't look to be any blowby on the gasket but can't have helped.

    Secondly was the wiring from cam sensor on the drivers side rear was toasted. Like the outside was super brittle. I'd have no doubt it would have been shorting but not sure if this would have been causing the power loss or even if the brittleness is due to the turbo heat or the wiring shorting out. I have a gas motor I'll steal the wiring off to fix it.

    Turbo is apart to allow wastegate to be ported before fitting new flapper. Tomorrow's job. Turbo is in really good nick due to it only doing 5000kms. I have a turbosmart wastegate actuator here with 12psi springs in it which I believe is a combination of a 7 & 5psi spring. I was going to use it with just the 7psi spring figuring it's a lot easier to change the springs rather than use the stock actuator and change it later.

  9. #39
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    The turbosmart actutors still need to be stripped down completely to change springs so you still need to disconnect the wastegate flapper arm... So it's still a cunt.

    They also have a lot more mass to move internally compared to a stick units so need minimal preload compared to a stock unit.

    Means well but is skittled


  10. #40
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    exhaust cam sensor wires.

    preport



    post port




    I'll get it welded together tomorrow and find another stud so I can reassemble before starting on exhaust
    Last edited by ahk068; 10-12-17 at 12:34 PM. Reason: fucking

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahk068 View Post

    Secondly was the wiring from cam sensor on the drivers side rear was toasted. Like the outside was super brittle. I'd have no doubt it would have been shorting but not sure if this would have been causing the power loss or even if the brittleness is due to the turbo heat or the wiring shorting out. I have a gas motor I'll steal the wiring off to fix it.

    Turbo is apart to allow wastegate to be ported before fitting new flapper. Tomorrow's job. Turbo is in really good nick due to it only doing 5000kms. I have a turbosmart wastegate actuator here with 12psi springs in it which I believe is a combination of a 7 & 5psi spring. I was going to use it with just the 7psi spring figuring it's a lot easier to change the springs rather than use the stock actuator and change it later.
    The cam sensor wiring is a common fault, they log dtc's but won't bring the engine light on and cause a significant loss in power so you should see some good results.

    When people were first modding these things the only cars that needed the flapper mod were the ones with a 12psi actuator (everyone) and had a target boost pressure of 12psi, its too close and you need a very efficient waste gate. The 7psi spring would be perfect if you want to run 10-12psi.

  12. #42
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    Finished doing the dump pipe/cat delete today. Pretty happy with the outcome given I can't weld, I used shit laying around the shed and used a gasless mig. It's good and ugly in spots but is strong and doesn't leak. Heat wrapped the first half as
    I'm jumping on the anti-heat in engine bay bandwagon.

    When I cut the dump of the existing cat it didn't look too sinister but based on never seeing the inside of a cat before I'm happy to be corrected. The increase from 2 x 2.25" to 2 x 2.5" hopefully might help the turbo spool a bit quicker.

    Car fired and ran fine. Free revving it sounds like it's spooling more aggressively. My wiring repair must have worked as the car isn't displaying any codes and sounds ok. Slightly more crackly after a big rev.

    I can't get it onto a dyno for a few weeks due to Xmas and the next practice day I can't attend so struggling to test before new hill climb championship commences. Next job is to remake the front top control arm brackets to get some more camber and modify the shifter to shorten the throw.

    trying this tapatalk thing for the first time so hopefully pics work

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  13. #43
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    More back yard mods. Deleted the air con pump using by swapping the idler pulley for the tensioner one and using a shorter belt. Goes together really well however the belt rubs ever so slightly on the springy bit of the tensioner (see lines on belt in pic) I pulled it back apart and filed it back to give as much clearance as possible before polishing the housing to allow the belt to slide over more neatly. Not sure if it'll get really hot and snap but we'll see I guess. squealed a little bit but crc fixed that.

    Re-drilled front upper control arm brackets to get more front camber. Once everything was clearanced enough it all went back to together fine. I have about 5 degrees neg on the front now and I can dial some out with shims if needed. Eye ball says I picked up some toe out it the process but I'll measure and check.

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    Last edited by ahk068; 01-01-18 at 02:24 PM.

  14. #44
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    Do you have a fuel surge tank fitted to this? Any issues around corners?

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RLF View Post
    Do you have a fuel surge tank fitted to this? Any issues around corners?
    just stock tank atm with 'in pot' pump. no issues atm.

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  16. #46
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    That's interesting to know. You can get some pretty decent flowing in tank pumps these days which negates the need for noisy external pumps and smelly surge tanks.

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by RLF View Post
    That's interesting to know. You can get some pretty decent flowing in tank pumps these days which negates the need for noisy external pumps and smelly surge tanks.
    haven't seen a surge tank in a ba spec chooka ever. couple of reasonably quick ones down here on corn juice surviving with in tank option

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  18. #48
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    progressed a bit with this lately.

    Predrilled the top control arm brackets to give me about 5 deg camber in the front. Car turns in brilliantly now with no understeer at all. The increase in corner grip then presented an issue with fuel surge at less than half a tank of fuel so a 2 liter tank and a 44 pump were fitted in the engine bay.

    Pulled the sunroof and a few other bits to drop some weight and did a supersprint event Sunday. Fitted an old set of Direzza's in a hard compound. Struggled early to get tyre pressures right but ended the day taking 1.4 seconds of my PB. GPS lap thingy says theoretically best lap based off sector pb's is still a second quicker so the driver still needs work.

    Still has unknown tune fitted but increased boost to 12psi and fuel pressure to 65psi and the car is now great to drive. Nowhere near as fast as I'd like but well beyond the limits of the driver

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  19. #49
    Registered User bigshipengine.jpg's Avatar
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    Good stuff. Need more in car vids....

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  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigshipengine.jpg View Post
    Good stuff. Need more in car vids....

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    coming. gopro software is shit

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  21. #51
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    So, do we know what this thing weighs yet?
    " Money is for those without skills"

  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy928tt View Post
    So, do we know what this thing weighs yet?
    high 1600's at a guess but might visit the local garden centre this week

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  23. #53
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    It's just that performance is closely related to the power to weight ratio. My little hillclimber only has about 100hp but because it only weighs 375 kg is suitably sprightly. Still, I guess if you are making 400 hp you'd have a similar power to weight ratio...harder work for the brakes, suspension and tyres though.....
    " Money is for those without skills"

  24. #54
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    https://youtu.be/sN7j5pKz1a4

    it's sideways. deal with it

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  25. #55
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    Started to make some brake ducts of some description for this thing today. My overall aim is to race the State Superseries next year. It has three classes split by times at both Baskerville and Simmons. C class cut off is 63 seconds at baskerville and I'm currently doing 66.8s. If I race I like to win so if I can get to a 63.5 at baskerville I'll be happy and be very competitive. However due to building a house this year modifications will be minimal and very budget orientated. As a point of reference IPRA (Leigh Forrest) runs 58s.

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  26. #56
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    removed battery tray as part of drivers side. Fitted Ghetto cold air intake while I was there. Pod will live under the guard

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  27. #57
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    depending on what pads and conditions on the track, you might be preventing them from getting up to the correct temp in certain circumstances. so be sure to make it easy to restrict the ducting also.
    Turbo NB MX5: more derp less carbon lightyear clone
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  28. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
    depending on what pads and conditions on the track, you might be preventing them from getting up to the correct temp in certain circumstances. so be sure to make it easy to restrict the ducting also.
    Thanks for the tip. Given I'll be running 2 spots with 328 discs for a while I'm not thinking it's a problem in the short term but later on definitely

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  29. #59
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    I have a heap of 100mm heat proof duct tubing laying around. Let me know if you need any and I can ship it down if required.
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  30. #60
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nelsonian101 View Post
    I have a heap of 100mm heat proof duct tubing laying around. Let me know if you need any and I can ship it down if required.
    got some on it's way but thanks for the offer

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