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Thread: Luke's FD RX7 - FDL98

  1. #31
    Registered User 9triton's Avatar
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    good project .

    but I cant help but feel it needs more pointy stick action -

  2. #32
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukevl View Post
    they are all cast (die or pressure unsure) aluminium.
    Forged I think you'll find.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  3. #33
    The royal penis is clean tremolo's Avatar
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    Great project. It would be great if you complete it to an extremely high standard, get bored with it and then sell it at a catastrophic loss so I can buy it.

  4. #34
    right over the top TJ Shermuz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tremolo View Post
    Great project. It would be great if you complete it to an extremely high standard, get bored with it and then sell it at a catastrophic loss so I can buy it.
    Shhhh, that was my plan.
    I am a retarded 747 captain who now sells waterslides in Perth.

  5. #35
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Forged I think you'll find.
    Hnngggg. I love working on this car so many nice bits.

    Quote Originally Posted by tremolo View Post
    Great project. It would be great if you complete it to an extremely high standard, get bored with it and then sell it at a catastrophic loss so I can buy it.
    I'll keep that in mind but as I said if it does things well I have no desire to sell it. I have already started planning the electric conversion in 2025

  6. #36
    The royal penis is clean tremolo's Avatar
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    Good on you. I'd keep it too, I've always wanted a V8 FD. The electric part sounds gay though.

  7. #37
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    On that note surely by 2025 there will be a KERS system on the market for extra gay boosts.
    xw Falcon 393 full race cam, NGK spark plugs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Monza View Post
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  8. #38
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Electric sounds gay until you see vids of almost stock Teslas destroying nitrous V8 drag cars and GTRs on slicks. I love this thing as it is but I know the technology will be there one day where it will be a lighter and faster car in every way with electric power.

  9. #39
    Naughtius Maximus JayTHEFordman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukevl View Post
    Electric sounds gay until you see vids of almost stock Teslas destroying nitrous V8 drag cars and GTRs on slicks. I love this thing as it is but I know the technology will be there one day where it will be a lighter and faster car in every way with electric power.
    Yes, but they don't make the right noises, WNB
    Envy is Ignorance, Imitation is Suicide - Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Originally Posted by Stang:
    particularly when your body is functioning like a 1970s Alfa made by drunken chimpanzees on a Friday afternoon

  10. #40
    U gon dun wha now? Speedyblue's Avatar
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    I want to built one of these so badly, and the colour is right too. Alas, kids get in the way so I shall live vicariously through your build and bide my time.
    Ya'll don't know what it's like. Being male, middle class and white.

  11. #41
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    I agree. I was just making a point that I'm hoping to keep this thing forever. And it doesn't sound gay now so everyone calm down

  12. #42
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    One of the main issues with the LS conversion into RHD FDs is the clutch master cylinder real estate has been taken up by the L92 cylinder head. There are a couple of different solutions out there but aside from a pedal box every solution I saw has the MC mounted half in-half out of the firewall. I didnít like this so I went and over-engineered the shit out of it. First was to check what I was working with. The pedals in the FD are cool as. They are fairly lightweight and even the brake pedal arm is aluminium (so is the factory tyre jack FYI) (brake and clutch). The whole clutch pedal carrier weighs just 1100g.



    So the first thing I did was pump out some quality spreadsheet. There were differing opinions on master cylinder bore size and I am using a VE slave cylinder which I know is different to the earlier ones but unsure how much. I have no interest in just trying a 3/4" master cylinder then changing if it's wrong because I'm an impatient fuck who hates rework. So I measured up the factory MC throw of each car and bore dimensions. A couple of simple calcs and I came up with a 7/8" MC bore.



    And the plan is to mount it here somewhere so it all lives inside the car.



    So I modelled up this contraption to weld to the side of the factory clutch carrier with the MC mount on the side but facing in the opposite direction to factory. The clutch pedal would push a cut down factory rod, through some clevis arms and bearings and then actuate the MC back towards me.





    And this is the result. I'm not obsessed with weight just a bit saddened when I make something so elegant so gorilla-esque.












    I tried to use the OE reservoir but it wouldn't route nicely so I mounted the Wilwood reservoir in the engine bay with a small aluminium bracket and some M5 nutserts. I made a bulkhead fitting from some 2mm aluminium plate and some 5/16" aluminium hard line and fitted it with a rubber gasket to seal the firewall. It was connected at each point using rubber hose.












    The high pressure side was made up of good old Australian Speedflow 200 series -3 hose and fittings. A steel banjo on the MC and teflon braid passes through a grommet on the tunnel to a dash fitting brazed onto the VE hard line connected to the throw out bearing. This is the point I should have put a remote bleeder on but I was too lazy. It bled up fine but took a little too long.







    Lastly, once it was bled up the whole unit flexed a little too much for my liking so I added some meat (lightweight jesus wept) around the cage where it was flexing. Much better now



    And the result? Well it's bloody ace just quietly. Works absolutely brilliant in terms of pedal position and throw. Much happy. But I'll be cursing if I have to remove it!
    Last edited by lukevl; 11-10-17 at 09:09 PM.

  13. #43
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    That's an impressive fix you just 'whipped' up there ...nice work
    GT8
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  14. #44
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Now the diff and engine were mounted it was time to check the pinion angles. To do this I used a magnetic dial gauge base and cable tied a laser pointer on. By rotating the flange of the diff I could adjust the laser angle to get an almost concentric circle which was where the diff is pointing. I repeated that with the box and got the distance mismatch at each junction and used pythagoras to get my angles. I needed to add some 6mm shims under the diff nose, some 3mm shims to the engine mounts and a 5mm plate to the T56 trans mount to suit the Prothane gearbox mount and TR6060 rear housing. That gave me a nice even angle on each end but it was perfect then- if a little on the low side for angle at around 1.8 degrees.





    Once this was sorted I took the measurements and got Hardy Spicer in Brisbane to make up a tailshaft. It's a 3" steel shaft with plunge joint to suit the the TR6060 style flanged output shaft. They also had the billet adaptor for the output flange on the shelf which was cool. Off to Masters to get some HT bolts on a Sunday for fitment- awesome and it kind of shows how long it's taken to do this thread!





    And this was the gearbox mount mod as the crossmember is designed for the normal T56 style housing.



    Last edited by lukevl; 11-10-17 at 09:31 PM.

  15. #45
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justengt4 View Post
    That's an impressive fix you just 'whipped' up there ...nice work
    Ha thanks. It's not the biggest 'engineering special school' fix in the car but it's probably the most quirky

  16. #46
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    So that was the powertrain mounting sorted so the subframes and components could go off for powdercoating. But before they could there were a couple of other niggles to sort out for a complete fit. I had to cut some mounts off the chassis rail that had some rotary style AIDs crossmember attached to it. It was in the way of my reliabilities and torques.







    This was in the way of the GM AC compressor which I am planning to use. Note I didnít grind it flush because I didnít have to and may want to know where they were one day possibly who knows. Maybe rotaries will become reliable lol.

    The AC Compressor doesn't have a whole bunch of room against the chassis rail..


  17. #47
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    So all the new shit was removed and everything that was raw copped a powdercoat of amazing satin black to be discrete. NFI why there is a UBD in the back of my daily hack.



    And then the AC compressor mount copped some love. Basically I took about 4 trips to the mill to keep removing material and progressively getting the compressor closer to the motor. I had to die grind some meat out too but still happier with this than a custom adaptor at this stage. I think it has enough clearance now because it is not much higher than the engine mounts so shouldnít move sideways a lot under torque loading.




  18. #48
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Oh I test fitted the radiator and OTR too before I took everything out. It fit like shit. The Samberg stuff comes with zero fitting instructions so it takes even longer to figure it out when it doesn't fit perfectly. I don't have a lot of pics but I ended up having to space down the radiator about 6mm and increase the bend angle of one area by about 10 degrees and do some die grinding. Also had to cut the metal reinforcement on the top of the bumper but it's aluminium so no rust woo! Fits pretty good now so to celebrate I got the OTR powder coated in textured black. Looks gooooood.



    Last edited by lukevl; 11-10-17 at 10:00 PM.

  19. #49
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukevl View Post
    Electric sounds gay until you see vids of almost stock Teslas destroying nitrous V8 drag cars and GTRs on slicks. I love this thing as it is but I know the technology will be there one day where it will be a lighter and faster car in every way with electric power.
    Not gay. I'm 💯% with you

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    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  20. #50
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    #I'dturnfordamo

  21. #51
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Very cool and nice life hack with the laser.
    xw Falcon 393 full race cam, NGK spark plugs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Monza View Post
    I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

  22. #52
    Peoples Champ Fatboy's Avatar
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    My new favourite build thread. Awesome mate, love it !

  23. #53
    FD rotorhead16's Avatar
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    My old girl, I miss it. Glad to see your doing such a stellar job with the conversion. Many tears were had when I saw it roll away on the truck, but its gone to a good home.

    Will be watching this closely!!

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  24. #54
    The royal penis is clean tremolo's Avatar
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    Is this still for sale?

  25. #55
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Already sold to Fatboy sorry

  26. #56
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    This car is a Type RS which as I mentioned earlier is one of the Ďgoodí limited edition FDs. One of the benefits is that it has bigger diameter discs to the normal FD (314mm up from 294mm all around) and the fronts are 10mm thicker at 32mm. I figured I'd give these a go and see if they need upgrading.

    The OE brake discs had enough meat on them so they got a quick machining.



    The project Mu pads went back in for now as they looked ok and got a de-glaze on my garage floor. The calipers got a clean and new grease while I was there but looked good otherwise so they went back together





    I picked up some project mu Teflon braided lines second hand but unused. However during the mod plate inspection they got picked up as non-compliant with the ADRs and although the Project Mu lines looked decent they didnít have the required markings. So I went to HEL performance in Sandgate. I was absolutely stoked to find an Australian business within a very short drive making performance products in Australia. And the price was great too. That made my day.



    Fitment was a little less straight forward than the Project Mu lines because they either forgot or didnít realise that one of the hex vertexs needs to be rounded to locate in the FD mounts. It didnít take long to rectify but annoying when you are working in a clean environment on new products. Otherwise they fit and bled up well.

    These are the Project Mu lines you can see the rounded edge



    Modifying the HEL lines



    And installed





    Upon final assembly it dawned on me that the handbrake cables mounted to the stock diff. So I had to make a mount that straddled the Ford diff. I made a prototype by hand and hacked it for a while before drawing up a good version and having it cut and folded. It took a bit of rooting around because itís hard to do blind but it works well




  27. #57
    Peoples Champ Fatboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukevl View Post
    Already sold to Fatboy sorry
    Not many people are a man of their word. Much love bro...
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    Budget APRA racer

  28. #58
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    This is approaching Babs level of OCD, just with less pointy finger
    GT8
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  29. #59
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Lol thanks for the uber compliment but I'm nowhere near as OCD as Babs. I just like making shit and thinking about things for too long.

    But since you got me all excited I took the time to write about the motor. It couldn't stay stock for reasons but the one I choose tonight is that I can't hardly be the dude that turns up in a V8 swapped FD3S and it sounds like a poxy stock commodore with a 3". The idea for the motor is to take advantage of the capacity and keep bulk low down and mid range torque. I figured that if I can shift less often it will be a quicker car and with the low weight and 3.55 gears it should be quick around the track even when lugging out of corners in the mid range. It needs to pull away from standstill without any fuss and not complain if I want to cruise under 2000 rpm. BUT it has to sound kind of tough too because reasons.

    So the cam is the epicenter of decisions here. I decided on a COMP 228/230 on 112LSA but keep lift low at 0.570". Lift is awesome but pain goes up exponentially with lift and I don't know LSs that well. I want to be able to put kms on this thing without worrying about it. The rest of the valve train consists of Morel tie bar lifters, Manley pushrods, a Comp trunion upgrade kit for the stock rockers (a lot of info says keep the lightweight stock rockers if you can and with the low lift I should be ok), Comp springs, retainers, collets and seals.





    Pushing out the stock trunnion bearings





    Ready for assembly. Quite sexy little bits of kit these stock rockers. Happy to keep them



    New trunnions vs stock



    And assembled



    The rectangle port heads are meant to be pretty good for flow stock and looking at them it isn't hard to see why. But I like to fuck with everything so I measured some things to see what would work.





    A bit of spreadsheet action later and the decision was to shave the heads 0.5mm and use a 1.0mm head gasket to get compression to 11.2:1.



    But to achieve this (and time the cam where I wanted) I needed to flycut the pistons a little on the inlets. I bought a tool from Lindy Tools in the US ( http://www.lindytools.com/ihpc ) to do this.



    I taped up the deck real good like and got the offending piston on TDC.



    Then put the cutter in the head like you would an inlet valve and install the head. Then it's case of holding your tongue correctly and using the collar stopper to only cut the depth required. Once I did 7 of them I really go the hang of it!




  30. #60
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    While the heads were at PLR it got a 5 angle valve job which I felt was an area that couldn't hurt to touch up. When I got it back and did the finger test it looked fantastic. Again I'm no TK but the short turn feels epic now. It also got machine work done in the valve spring seats to get the installed height correct.



    So now it was time to assemble the heads. I got a Comp valve spring compressor and it worked quite well so no real complaints. I turned up a valve stem seal insertion tool because I'm a knob and like wasting time.







    And another cc'ing to satisfy my spreadsheet fetish


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