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Thread: Trailer brake controller and dual battery set up, advice.

  1. #1
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Trailer brake controller and dual battery set up, advice.

    Right, currently going through the motions of ordering a new family hauler and have decided I should get a trailer brake controller on it since nopics keeps talking about camper trailers/caravans etc. Any recommendations on brands/models? Prefer one that can be mounted out of the way, have no issues with mounting control heads on dash, this thing is likely to be drilled all over the place anyway.
    And secondly, I want to get a second battery for it, I would go for the factory dual battery but that's a special order build with is too long. Any recommendations on what isolator/charger to use? I'll be shoving the biggest battery I can under the seat, will wait till I have the car before I figure out the size, maybe even Li if they aren't stupidly expensive for my application so I'd need abit of flexability there. Will also add an invertor as well. Vehicle will be a VW Multivan which apparently uses a smart alternator.
    Cheers carnts.

  2. #2
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I have the Tekonsha P3 and the manual override within quick reach has saved my arse more than once.

  3. #3
    Registered User TRD-MX62's Avatar
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    I got a redarc tow pro elite, have not used it yet but I went for it due to the lack of 1970's spec controller to bash your knees on.
    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
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  4. #4
    bitch lasagne Bob Vegana.'s Avatar
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    It's going to be a massive cunt to wire all of that up, and have everything working correctly, without upsetting the factory electrics.

    There's no brake light switch on the pedal to get a signal from, for the trailer brake module. All the lights run off PWM. Closest you can get, is to tap into the hall sensor on the master cylinder, as it's a proper 12V signal straight to the BCM, which converts it to a PWM output.

    Dual battery and invertor should be straight forward, as long as you leave the van's wiring alone, and run everything seperate as much as possible. You can even buy all the brackets, etc to mount it under the passenger's seat, as per OEM. The UK forums should be across all of this by now, and will have info on what to use and how to hook it all up. Good camper fit-outs run completely seperate wiring looms, that only interface with the car's original electrics where absolutely necessary.
    Quote Originally Posted by brewdles View Post
    In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

  5. #5
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Yeah, found a bloke in the UK who does camper wiring so that bit shouldn't be overly hard, once I figure out what isolator I need. Looks like I'll be talk redarc.

  6. #6
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Ive seen a couple of newer installs that use an old style clutch/brake switch mounted to the pedal box for the trailer brake controller. Save tapping into anything.

    Tekonsha P3 ftw too, has saved me a couple of times with sudden crosswind wobbles.
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    Another vote for Redarc TowPro. Great unit to use, simple install and neat switch / dial.
    For dual battery wiring talk to Tim at Traxide. http://www.traxide.com.au/ Knows his stuff when it comes to complex late model Euro stuff (he does great kits for Land Rovers).

  8. #8
    bitch lasagne Bob Vegana.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    Ive seen a couple of newer installs that use an old style clutch/brake switch mounted to the pedal box for the trailer brake controller. Save tapping into anything.

    Tekonsha P3 ftw too, has saved me a couple of times with sudden crosswind wobbles.
    You know what, there's a very good possibility the pedal assembly carries over from the previous model on these (it is only a facelift of a faceift of a van that was released in 2004), so chances are the brake pedal switch off the earlier ones will fit and be useful.
    Quote Originally Posted by brewdles View Post
    In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

  9. #9
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Dealer is getting a Redarc tow-pro elite fitted for me, the battery can wait for the time being. Although not sure how long I'll be able to wait, there's going to be a fair few extra electrical stuff added to this thing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Vegana. View Post
    It's going to be a massive cunt to wire all of that up, and have everything working correctly, without upsetting the factory electrics.

    There's no brake light switch on the pedal to get a signal from, for the trailer brake module. All the lights run off PWM. Closest you can get, is to tap into the hall sensor on the master cylinder, as it's a proper 12V signal straight to the BCM, which converts it to a PWM output.

    Dual battery and invertor should be straight forward, as long as you leave the van's wiring alone, and run everything seperate as much as possible. You can even buy all the brackets, etc to mount it under the passenger's seat, as per OEM. The UK forums should be across all of this by now, and will have info on what to use and how to hook it all up. Good camper fit-outs run completely seperate wiring looms, that only interface with the car's original electrics where absolutely necessary.
    I though that the rear lights were 12v and 6v not PWM. Either way you can get the signal off the trailer harness ecu.

  11. #11
    bitch lasagne Bob Vegana.'s Avatar
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    It's all PWM now. Trailer input and output for brake lights is also PWM, which will fuck up if you've pissed money away on LED lamps for your box trailer.
    Quote Originally Posted by brewdles View Post
    In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

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