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Thread: V6 commo supercharger with 200k what will help the rotors last?

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  1. #1
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    V6 commo supercharger with 200k what will help the rotors last?

    Iíve got a V6 supercharged engine Iím working on the supercharger has about 200k on the clock. My question is would flash lube help the rotors on the charger last longer? I would like to see 400k on the clock other than doing a supercharger rebuild which obviously wonít renew the rotors would the flash lube help prolong the life?

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    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    The rotor coating gets fucked when the charge temps are too high or when the bearings fuck out and they touch. Flash lube is arranging the deck chairs on the Titanic.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

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    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    Flash lube works when combusted, if it helps your supercharger you're in deep shit.
    Retard Honour Wall.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
    Rob Sloth Young did i ask for your opinion? no. i only want it for a paddock bomb. go play with traffic.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles View Post
    you stupid fucken imbicle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles
    your are a fucken idiot of the highest level.

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    So there is nothing that can help prolong an old blower? I know not having enough fuel in the intake like in DI engines is bad but there must be some way to help poor old blower last a little longer?

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    VW Service Bloke Sloth's Avatar
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    no. its fucked.
    Quote Originally Posted by Marty! View Post
    I like cars. Cars are cool.

    Always looking for Triumph 2000 and 2500 parts and cars.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
    no. its fucked.
    No itís not yet but itís going to be soon enough and cost mega dollars to replace.

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    Look behind you... Milkman Don's Avatar
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    Remove L67 and replace with an ecotec, save worrying about a 20yr old blowers shelf life
    Quote Originally Posted by Faux Forg View Post
    I agree with Rdyno

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    used blowers are like $400, if that and they come up all the time, find a good one and slap it on?

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    Registered User Stix Zadinia's Avatar
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    yeah it's going to be a eaton M90, not like they're rare
    Last edited by Stix Zadinia; 19-12-17 at 06:02 AM.

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    infantile egomaniac CussCuss's Avatar
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    Theres a supermoo at the wreckers in the general population, even the wreckers dont think they are special enough to take them off and try to sell them as a special/rare part.
    this signature intentionally left blank

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    Quote Originally Posted by CussCuss View Post
    Theres a supermoo at the wreckers in the general population, even the wreckers dont think they are special enough to take them off and try to sell them as a special/rare part.
    No the wreckers sell the engine as whole but charge 3 times the price of a normal moo which is why I'm fucking around with this piece of shit. ACM only had one on there nation wide system which was in Melbourne.

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    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Put fresh bearing in it if it's not already fucked. Don't overdrive the blower and wind the intake temps up.
    It's about all you can do.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Put fresh bearing in it if it's not already fucked. Don't overdrive the blower and wind the intake temps up.
    It's about all you can do.
    Thanks. Where's the best place to get the bearing from?

    Also that reminds me I forgot to order the stinky oil for it.
    Last edited by S; 19-12-17 at 08:43 AM.

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    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S View Post
    Thanks. Where's the best place to get the bearing from?
    A compass.
    Fuck me, does your mum tie your shoelaces for you?
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

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    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    The thermal properties of the rotor coating breakdown at approximately 197,263kms. I know this because my neighbour's brother in law had fitted an M90 to his Subaru Sherpa and it once ran out of fuel on the way to Adelaide. So if you're travelling in Nepal with a backpack loaded with Eaton M90s make sure they have travelled a combined total of less than 195,000kms to ensure safe travels.
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

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    Just send the thing in for a rebuild. Harrop used to do them, JB do them in the states, I do them in the states. The rotor coating is of absolutely fuck all consequence if you have functional EGR on the engine, just put case bearings in the thing and do NOT do the rotor plate bearings unless you can fit an 0.075mm feeler wire between the front drive gears. If you do the rotor plate bearings make sure you have a few extra rotor plates to fuck up, they take a light touch and a little practice.

    THERE ARE NO KEYS IN THE ROTOR ASSEMBLY.

    You will have to arrange the rotors and gears to the correct tolerances when you press the gears on. Mark them and use the marks to get close, use cellophane tape to set the clearances, and once the rotor assembly is done, the snout drive is a cakewalk.

    99% of the time, the only thing these blowers need are case bearings and a snout drive rebuild.

    Case bearings are simple, they have to be hydraulically pushed out of the case. You'll drill a hole in the bottom of the case, tap it to fit a handy bolt that you have drilled to fit a grease zerk, and use a grease gun to push the bearing out of it's bore. Once that's done, clean up the grease, push the cup-type case bearings back in, and that's it. They come pre-greased with the special blue grease, (Nye lubricants makes it, it's some high temp/high rpm stuff.) and you push them in slightly past flush with the case.

    To rebuild the snout drive you MUST use a pulley puller designed for the M90. A regular puller, or a hydraulic press, or a hammer, or whatever else you have, WILL NOT remove that pulley without damaging it. Same goes for putting it back on, you need to use the correct tool to pull it back on.

    Once the pulley is off, press the shaft down through the snout. The front bearing will stay in the housing, the rear bearing will come out with the shaft. I use a hydraulic press, but if you're careful you can use a hammer for this part. The press fits are light. Once the shaft and rear bearing are pressed out, remove the retaining clip on the shaft seal in the front, flip the snout drive over and press the bearing and front seal out. Replace front bearing. Do not replace front seal yet.

    To remove the rear snout drive bearing, you must press the drive plate and its three pins off of the shaft. It's splined really fine, and it's not a big deal to press it off. Then you can press off the rear bearing and replace, and line the splines back up and press the drive plate back on. Put the spring back on. It's big, you can't miss it...and it's not always in there from the factory. I don't know why, but if you've got one with a spring put the spring back in.

    Now, put the seal installer tool up against the front snout bearing-you're gonna be pushing the shaft in to the housing, and the press fit isn't the OD of the rear bearing, it's the ID of the front bearing so do not attempt to press the shaft in by supporting the snout drive casting-support it on the OD or ID of the front snout bearing! A bit of pipe the right size works fine, it's not that terrible of a tight fit. Press the whole shaft assembly including the rear bearing into the case, and into the front bearing. It'll stop when the step on the shaft butts up to the back of the front bearing. Now you can install the front seal and the seal retainer clip.

    Now, the snout drive bearings are done, and you've replaced the plastic coupler, use some anerobic sealant (RTV doesn't work...) to seal not only the snout drive to the rotor plate, but the the rotor plate to the case. Torque the bolts to 18ft-lbs/24N-m in a random pattern and wipe off excess sealant.

    Now, if you do have to do the rotor plate bearings, cellophane tape makes a handy 0.005" thick stick-on shim to set up clearances with. Rotor to Rotor clearances should be 0.005 to 0.007, and case-to-rotor clearances are the same. Check the clearances on each lobe of each rotor. If the rotor timing is not perfect then clearances will be off rotor-to-rotor, this is how you can find that error before you hear the rotors swordfighting inside the case later.

    You might guess that the rotor plate bearings are about as much fun as sticking your hand in a woodchipper, and you would be correct. It's a bitch. don't do it unless you just absolutely can't find another rotor assembly with good bearings. My fuckup rate on rebuilding rotor plates is a solid 50%, and I have done exactly twice as many as I needed to do. BTW, the rotor plate casting will break apart when you press out the old bearings, this is normal and you will need to TIG weld on new retainer plates on the back side of the casting to retain the new bearings-loctite will not do it when they get hot. I think Magnusson here in the states used to have rebuilt rotor assemblies available, might call them up and ask.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    Very detailed post.
    Thanks for the write up. I wish you were in Sydney or Melbourne I would just send it to you. But I just ordered some other parts which put touching the super charger over budget on this job.

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    Registered User ls400x's Avatar
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    You are American Jmac, Xnke!

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    no mods, leave it stock Jack Nicholson's Avatar
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    M90's off supermoos aren't exact rare or gold plated are they...

    If the blower isn't making any bad noises, just put some new turbine oil in it and run it until it starts making bad noises.

    Then pick up another replacement with 200k on the clock for $300 off gumtree, and repeat.
    Jaguar XJR, Freelander 2 HSE, Jaguar XKR

    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
    Look, just because you drive a couple of imported luxo Pommy cars doesn't mean you need to act like an Imperialistic Lapdog and be the last bastion of defence for Straya The Beaut's mid-20th-Century ideals
    Quote Originally Posted by nutttr View Post
    People must assume you are some sort of drug dealer with all these nice cars turning up to a fibro home

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Nicholson View Post
    M90's off supermoos aren't exact rare or gold plated are they...

    If the blower isn't making any bad noises, just put some new turbine oil in it and run it until it starts making bad noises.

    Then pick up another replacement with 200k on the clock for $300 off gumtree, and repeat.
    This will be a viable option for about 5 more years imo. The car is a series 2 VY itís 2003 in 5 years it will be 20 years old imo 20 years is where parts seem to start dropping off in avaliabilty. One factor that is not taken into account is everyone is chasing supermoos for conversions and the superchargers for adding boost to shit boxes. I donít see the prices going down on these.

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    no mods, leave it stock Jack Nicholson's Avatar
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    How much is a typical rebuild from Harrop?
    Jaguar XJR, Freelander 2 HSE, Jaguar XKR

    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
    Look, just because you drive a couple of imported luxo Pommy cars doesn't mean you need to act like an Imperialistic Lapdog and be the last bastion of defence for Straya The Beaut's mid-20th-Century ideals
    Quote Originally Posted by nutttr View Post
    People must assume you are some sort of drug dealer with all these nice cars turning up to a fibro home

  23. #23
    25 schmeckles? Do the safety dance.'s Avatar
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    Why care about the longevity of shitty supercharged moo motors when you can buy running LS powers cars for like $1k?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Do the safety dance. View Post
    Why care about the longevity of shitty supercharged moo motors when you can buy running LS powers cars for like $1k?
    Because the lady (no pics) that owns it doesnít want a V8. She used to own a SLR 5000 and other V8ís back in the 80ís but Iím guessing she wants a car with power without chugging the fuel. She bought a 2016 hatchback shit box and told me after a month that she wants her commodore fixed lol.

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    Look behind you... Milkman Don's Avatar
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    Supermoos arenít known for being economical, they drink worse than lsjuans
    Quote Originally Posted by Faux Forg View Post
    I agree with Rdyno

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    Quote Originally Posted by Milkman Don View Post
    Supermoos arenít known for being economical, they drink worse than lsjuans
    Not true. The VT and VX were very good on the highway but VY not so much. There is people that think less cylinders means less fuel I don't bother to go into detail about this subject as it annoys me so it is what it is.

  27. #27
    Look behind you... Milkman Don's Avatar
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    They all drink like sailors on shore leave, nothing to do with how many cylinders. Heavy car, lazy auto and tall diff gears. Engine working harder to achieve the same thing.
    Quote Originally Posted by Faux Forg View Post
    I agree with Rdyno

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    Quote Originally Posted by Milkman Don View Post
    They all drink like sailors on shore leave, nothing to do with how many cylinders. Heavy car, lazy auto and tall diff gears. Engine working harder to achieve the same thing.
    The VT and VX had highway lean out which got deleted due to NoX emissions. They use fuck all on the highway.

  29. #29
    Look behind you... Milkman Don's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S View Post
    The VT and VX had highway lean out which got deleted due to NoX emissions. They use fuck all on the highway.
    Im no expert on these things but why would they delete lean cruise on the later models?
    Quote Originally Posted by Faux Forg View Post
    I agree with Rdyno

  30. #30
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    Just because the blower came on a moo doesn't mean you can't rebuild the thing and make it work on anything you want. That said, I can't wait to start seeing TVS series blowers in the junkyards...

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