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Thread: M12 x 1.5 high tensile bolts

  1. #1
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    M12 x 1.5 high tensile bolts

    I'm after some M12 x 1.5 high tensile bolts, can't have a knurled body or an unthreaded body under the head. Need to be about 8-10cm long, bullet nose would be even better.

    It's for a wheel hub that had screw in wheel studs, ditching those and going with these. I need them to screw in from the back as I've seen the nice products one break etc.

    Would rather not get these:

    http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=73

    because then I'll have to drill the thread on the hub out completely etc, was hoping that I could thread a normal bolt all the way through the hub and then use something like loctite 272 to keep them in place or a small grub screw to keep them tight.


    If I can order them online etc that would be ace.
    Quote Originally Posted by jmac View Post
    ... he may have seen one of the signs of the apocalypse - 4 horsemen, fwd transmission, pestilence etc??

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    I would give Unbrako a call.


    http://www.unbrako.com.au/hex-bolts
    Last edited by Fondles; 12-12-17 at 09:39 AM.

    Some of those that work forces are the same that burn crosses.


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    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    When I need bolts/screws I usually go to a fastener store. I find they will sometimes exchange goods for money

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    Nay sayer Mr Ed's Avatar
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    Nay sayer Mr Ed's Avatar
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    Drop the 1.5 out of the search and youll get a shitload of hits, most will be 12x1.5. 100mm (not 10cm) is pretty common.

    'Set screw' seems to be the term for fully threaded.
    Last edited by Mr Ed; 12-12-17 at 12:20 PM.
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    I'm pretty sure metric coarse on M12 is 1.75 thread pitch.

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    Nay sayer Mr Ed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S View Post
    I'm pretty sure metric coarse on M12 is 1.75 thread pitch.
    Hmm, on review you are correct.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Ed View Post
    Drop the 1.5 out of the search and youll get a shitload of hits, most will be 12x1.5. 100mm (not 10cm) is pretty common.

    'Set screw' seems to be the term for fully threaded.

    I'd reckon anything that says metric course will not be 1.5.

    Edit: beaten by Rdyno !!

    Some of those that work forces are the same that burn crosses.


  10. #10
    Nay sayer Mr Ed's Avatar
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    Yeah having a bit more of a look its the 1.5 that fucks it. Heaps of 1.75 fully threaded, the 1.5 stuff seems to be max 40mm threaded.

    Could always get new nuts but Im not sure what 1.75 thread is like for wheels.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Ed View Post
    Yeah having a bit more of a look its the 1.5 that fucks it. Heaps of 1.75 fully threaded, the 1.5 stuff seems to be max 40mm threaded.

    Could always get new nuts but Im not sure what 1.75 thread is like for wheels.
    From my memory my bolt supplier speciality fasteners can get them in. They just can't get odd shank diameters and lengths.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lukevl View Post
    When I need bolts/screws I usually go to a fastener store. I find they will sometimes exchange goods for money
    Work 7 to 7, Dad on Saturday and Tutor on Sundays. Keebles in the CBD has moved to Sunshine so STFU :P
    Quote Originally Posted by jmac View Post
    ... he may have seen one of the signs of the apocalypse - 4 horsemen, fwd transmission, pestilence etc??

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    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Im impressed you have time to play with a project car then. Well done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silence View Post
    Work 7 to 7, Dad on Saturday and Tutor on Sundays. Keebles in the CBD has moved to Sunshine so STFU :P

    When do you need them by ?

    My bolt supplier is a bolt manufacturer they may have them or able to make them (not sure on min qty).

    Some of those that work forces are the same that burn crosses.


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    Cheers all. Sorry Luke, got super pissed off about work and bit. Yeah I struggle with spare time but early Sundays before I tutor or M-F evenings are my car days.

    Fondles: All good, going to try those links people have posted. Problem is that every time I close my office door and try to make a phone call to order something, I always have someone barging in with some sort of "the sky is falling need this sorted now" faux crisis...

    Gamma: You're a gingerbeer, is there anything I should think about in terms of using high tensile bolts screwed in from the back of a hub as wheel studs? It's to do away with the shitty Mazda/German screw in wheel stud system.
    Quote Originally Posted by jmac View Post
    ... he may have seen one of the signs of the apocalypse - 4 horsemen, fwd transmission, pestilence etc??

  17. #17
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    what about a screw in stud ?

    Some of those that work forces are the same that burn crosses.


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    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silence View Post
    I've seen the nice products one break etc.
    I would be pretty hesitant to replace studs with bolts in a situation like this, couldn't tell you why exactly.

    Could get genuine studs if you don't want nice products? I spent some time looking for longer studs and eventually solved the problem by selling my AE86.

    Quote Originally Posted by S View Post
    I'm pretty sure metric coarse on M12 is 1.75 thread pitch.
    Not sure about the hub side but on the lug side M12 is generally 1.5mm pitch (toyota) or 1.25mm pitch. Might be of help to OP if he needs wheelnuts to fit his (backwards) wheel bolts
    Last edited by Roadsailing; 12-12-17 at 02:58 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadsailing View Post
    I would be pretty hesitant to replace studs with bolts in a situation like this, could get genuine studs if you don't want nice products? I spent some time looking for longer studs and eventually solved the problem by selling my AE86.



    Not sure about the stud side but on the lug side M12 is generally 1.5mm pitch (toyota) or 1.25mm pitch. Might be of help to OP if he needs wheelnuts to fit his (backwards) wheel bolts
    I was stating in the link Ed provided the bolt was listed as metric coarse. Metric coarse is always the same pitch so M12 is 1.75, M10 1.5 and so on. Wheel studs are indeed 1.5 or 1.25 and from memory M12 metric fine is 1.25 so a 1.5 M12 is a little harder to track down but can be done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles View Post
    what about a screw in stud ?
    Nah, trying to avoid them because:

    1. I've see them snap clean off at the hub face and drum face

    2. They can unscrew even with loctite in them

    3. I've seen them come undone just by the wheel nut getting stuck on them, so go to change a wheel and the whole stud came out.

    I'll throw up some pics tomorrow of the hub, have to press it off the disc first at work. My only kinda thought is that if I drill out the thread on the inside of the hub holes (where a screw in wheel stud would thread), say I press in the new studs from behind, there really isn't enough meat on the knurl of the ARP studs for them to grip onto the hub. I kinda need a wheel stud that has a decent knurl length. (thickness of the part where the wheel stud would pass through is 20mm).


    I am overthinking this I'm sure of it...
    Quote Originally Posted by jmac View Post
    ... he may have seen one of the signs of the apocalypse - 4 horsemen, fwd transmission, pestilence etc??

  21. #21
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    Use permanent thread locker. I've never had one come out. Have purchased about 8 sets from www.motorsporthardware.com. Never had any break. If they are breaking I wonder if its due to either being over tightened or used to locate wheels and spacers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Buford T. Justice
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  23. #23
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    They look just the same as the knurled ARP ones in the first post that are not wanted !!

    Some of those that work forces are the same that burn crosses.


  24. #24
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    12.9 might not be the go? Do you really need the super tensile strength? That comes with the offset of increased brittleness which might see high impact loads on wheel fasteners fail. 10.9 might be a better option? Generally more kooky sizes in 10.9 too.
    Mit freundlichen Gre

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    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor ed View Post
    12.9 might not be the go? Do you really need the super tensile strength? That comes with the offset of increased brittleness which might see high impact loads on wheel fasteners fail. 10.9 might be a better option? Generally more kooky sizes in 10.9 too.
    Yea I would use 10.9 too.

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    Try ab bolts thomastown. They can be dear but mostly have everything

  27. #27
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Id also rethink your reasoning for needing a head on the bolt. You could easily cut a threaded length off a longer fastener, and peen one end into a gentle flare. You dont need the head to torque the fastener down, you just want wind-out security. A mechanical lock like a peened flare (plus minus loctite 611ty) and it aint going nowhere
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

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    Quote Originally Posted by Madhatr View Post
    Use permanent thread locker. I've never had one come out. Have purchased about 8 sets from www.motorsporthardware.com. Never had any break. If they are breaking I wonder if its due to either being over tightened or used to locate wheels and spacers.
    Purchased some studs from these guys as well, no issues so far A++.

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    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    Ryan (owner) also has a stroked LS3 powered E36. So he's pf material.
    Quote Originally Posted by Buford T. Justice
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  30. #30
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    Um...yes this all sounds a bit of a worry..wheel studs & nuts should only clamp the wheel onto the hub. The centrebore of the wheel should support the weight and locate the wheel. Typically, breaking wheel studs is an indication of some other problem.
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