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Thread: Sil80 with a smattering of other sil* and *80's

  1. #61
    Registered User 9triton's Avatar
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    ha - good one with the neighbours

    Quote Originally Posted by nopistons View Post
    . I decided this is the time to replace EVERYTHING and make the car nice to drive finally
    Babaloiuie nods in agreement at this

  2. #62
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    After giving the suspension a complete refresh, the car developed a squeak. It sounded like it was coming from in the car. And out of the car. From the drivers seat, it was coming from passenger side. From the passenger seat, it was coming from drivers side. With the windows down, it was louder. I checked everything that I had changed. After months of scratching my eyeballs out, I found it was the center bearing.

    Legendary oldmate used an ABS tailshaft when he did the manual conversion, meaning the rear section is a centimeter shorter. You can install it on a non-abs car, by putting the center bearing in first, and then using the bolts to pull it onto the diff flange. That would explain why the rubbers around the centerbearing were oval heh. When I undid everything to swap subframes, the oval'd assembly partially came out of the center bearing bracket, and squeaked like a motherfucker. I rebolted it and the sound went away. The car was now SILENT to drive.

    But in the midst of searching for the source of this noise, I spied this:



    I never pay labour on anything, because I'm a jew, and ultimately, I can learn to do everything*

    (*see why shit breaks when I do it)

    In this case I took a bare subframe and loose control arms to a shop around the corner to get bushes and balljoints pressed. They told me they had a hard time doing it, which is fair, Nissan subframes always seem like a bitch to work with. I paid the price and didnt think much of it.

    I lived by the beach, so when the parts were on the car for a week, the nasty salt air already started rusting away the areas they had belted and heated the fuck out of. So all four holes on the subframe, and all the control arms were rusting nastily. One subframe bush isn't even tight in there, as you can see in that picture its sliding out



    Which isn't a surprise, because the hole isn't even round anymore! Everything had been stretched to get the old bushes out. Fuck me in the ass, how can you do such a shit job and then still charge EXTRA labour because it took longer than expected? This was around 4 months after the rear end went in the car, so it hadn't killed me yet, but will still need redoing at some point

    Fuck ass shit fuck

    This took a long time to get over. Honestly thought about giving up on cars and just being a grown up. Just put up with it since then, but knowing I need another subframe, set of control arms, and set of bushes to re-do it again at some point.

  3. #63
    Pull my finger StupidFlanders's Avatar
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    r.e. your short tailshaft, i just found that out too with mine. I swapped from the ABS 180 diff back to the Sil non ABS and noticed the difference in length because i still have the 180 manual ABS tailshaft in. I did the same as you and just pulled it in with the flange bolts and crossed my fingers.
    Then i noticed the noise. Except it wasn't a squeak, it was a metal on metal scraping noise that matched road speed. I then realised the yoke has now pulled out the back of the gearbox 10mm and is now rubbing on a lightly dented bit of the cup around the output shaft on the extension housing. That will fix itself.

    Also your SR/CA clutch pedal difference, i'm running CA pedals and master in mine. Pedal travel feels fine?

  4. #64
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    That tailshaft was in the car for 5 years and only made noises for 6 months. Moot point now, because there's a one piece shaft in there with a suitable Z32 gearbox.

    pedals: I cant find my picture of the pedals side by side, but they're completely different. My issue arose when I had a CA pedal with SR master.

    Speaking of things that don't fit, ever since my tune, I was after a better coilpack solution. Everyone was making the jump to yaris coilpacks, and so I did too! Someone from NS had a 'business' that sold enough parts to warrant an ABN, and so bought cheap stuff. He sold me a kit by a guy in QLD, whose kits were powering 400kw track weapons. Alright!



    It came with an ignitor delete, that would save me from having to modify my newish engine loom



    erm



    uh

    "We've sold dozen's of these kits, and they all fit without issue!"

    I bought the kit because yaris coilpacks could apparently handle 1.1mm gap at my measly 220kw. I hate gapping plugs, and the plugs Yavuz put in my car for the tune only come in 1.1mm. Makes sense, yeah?

    The new coils would miss at 0.9 bar at 1.1mm gap. Another friend got retuned on the same kit, had to gap to 0.65mm to make 230rwkw. His failing splitfires actually went further than the supposedly brand new, genuine Toyota coilpacks.

    Have since seen that Goleby's kit uses non-genuine coils, that are marked as genuine coils. My kit isn't Golebys, but it means that there are proper replica coilpacks getting around. Fucks sake.

    Anyway, life was good. Car drove well. Few issues now. But something was niggling at me. The body of the car was so badly murdered to fit the 17x10's on that were equipped when I purchased it, that normal sized wheels (the 16x7.5's) looked stupid. The car lost its visual impact for me anyway.

    A few mates showed up for a drive on my birthday last year



    I got to drive the hachi down Mac Pass



    Silly little cars that you can't NOT giggle in.



    The Silvia a friend had been restoring for the better part of a year. Really shows how dented, bashed and lacking in paint my car is in comparison.



    This day pushed me off the edge anyway, so I went back to my aligner to make the car handle worse.





    Was nice to enjoy a few months where a few mates could meet up and have car hangs. Almost forgot why I had a car in the first place, so this was a nice stage to reach again.

  5. #65
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    By now astute observers may have noticed that I have a problem.



    I think I've had around 34 sets of wheels



    Nismo LMGT2



    Nismo LMGT3



    Nismo NS5R



    Impul RS



    AVS VS5



    5Zigen/Black Racing somethings



    Enkei NT03



    Wedz Kranze ERM



    OZ Futura



    BBS LM

  6. #66
    ...... marcus_h's Avatar
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    My god, what an emotional rollercoaster

  7. #67
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    TLDR alert

    Ok, a convoluted and multi threaded tale of woe and loss.

    Chapter One - 2014



    The last two tone S13 I bought as a donor for the vert had a HKS GT-RS, complete with some oldschool braided lines with Earls flame sleeve, and used banjo bolts! Most braided lines just use straight fittings, and therefore are twice as long as the standard lines, and curl and curve and wrap around and take up half of the engine bay.

    HPI make an oil feed with banjo bolt, but want like $80 for the single line. ugh. Not important yet. I swapped the GT-RS for another HKS GT2530, and that is what went on my car.

    These HKS lines even included a restrictor built into the banjo bolt. Makes sense, considering it was a ball bearing turbo.

    The braided lines were eventually sold to a mate, who eventually sold them on to another local guy

    Chapter Two - 2015



    The new owner of the braided lines blew his CA18DET at the same track day I went to in 2014. He eventually picked up a fresh-ish SR20DET, a T28 bush bearing turbo and the HKS braided lines.

    He got the car running and went to a wetpan at Eastern Creek. During the first session, his radiator cracked and he had to park it. He put up a desperate WTB and managed to pick one up during the event

    During the second session, the car started pumping smoke. It appears the T28 he bought was dead.

    He put on another turbo and decided to sell the car. I picked it up, sold everything off, but kept his fresh KAAZ 2 way diff, and front panels.

    (I stripped the car bare, because it was RUSTY. Holes in the floor, holes in the sills, holes behind the firewall)

    Some proper wogs wanted to buy the engine asap. The guys profile picture on facebook was a silvia doing a MASSIVE burnout outside some houses. Looked like great guys, and the engine was obviously going to a good home. </sarcasm> It was a low km, type X engine, I was staunch in demanding good money for it

    [Note: I have always bought low, and sold medium. I've never gouged on prices, and have never gone near wrecker prices. But firm is firm]

    The guys wanted the T28 turbo as well, and wanted a discount, but also wanted to see the car running in person, despite me sending videos. Then they also wanted me to rip the motor out in front of them, despite leaving it in place for them to see running. Fadghadogihiu

    The turbo had only been on the motor and started once. I took a video of it running, all good. The two wogs turned up, and the turbo started chattering. And getting noisier. It literally died in 5 minutes running time. I looked like an idiot, the guys still bought the engine for my price, and I refused to let them help remove it to lower the price.

    ~~~ Intermission ~~~

    I told Anthony this story. He recounted a time that that he sold a working bush bearing turbo to a few well known drift dudes. A few hours later, they were blasting him on the phone for selling them a dud turbo, it failed 10 minutes into the first drive.

    He diagnosed (over the phone) that they ran stock oil lines to suit a ball bearing turbo with the bush bearing turbo. The restrictor in the lines killed the turbo.

    I remembered the restrictor in the HKS lines, and it made sense that the rusty car just killed two seemingly fine bush bearing turbos.

    Chapter Three - 2016



    My car always had exhaust leaks, ever since I put the steampipe manifold on. It in itself did not leak, its flanges were flat and true. But something was never right about it, it always leaked and it always stunk.

    I begrudgingly went back to a stock manifold to see if it made a difference - and it was silent! Amazing!

    But I put the turbo back on using the HKS lines. I was using GKtech straight fitting'd lines, which used up half of the engine bay, were fraying, and you'd always cut your arms to shit doing anything. Short lines with banjo bolts were obviously a good idea. And being a HKS kit with restrictor to suit HKS ball bearing turbos, it was obviously a very good idea.

    30kms later I had scary engine bay noises. The turbo was dead. I rolled home and pulled it out. Fragments of the bearing cage came out of the oil drain.

    R. I. P.

    A friend sold me a bush bearing T28 to get me out of trouble. It made no power, it had worse transient response than the bigger HKs turbo. It sounded weak and lame. The car sucked dick to drive. I fucking knew using those lines was a bad idea,

    ~~ Intermission ~~



    In ths picture, you can see that the steampipe manifold had a flat, one piece flange. OEM manifolds have four individual flanges that bolt to the head. I was using OEM MLS gaskets, which have rivets to hold them together - the rivets are located in between the separate flanges.

    The rivets were being crushed by the one piece flange, so it never fucking sealed properly.

    Fuck off cunting thing.

    Lessons learned : don't use parts off dead motors, don't use parts off dead turbos. DONT USE THINGS YOU KNOW ARE GOING TO FAIL YOU DICKHEAD

  8. #68
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    Continuation of a convoluted and multi threaded tale of woe and loss.

    Prologue - 2014

    In late 2014 a friend and I bought a 300ZX. Manual, nonturbo, shitbox. Best car. The car eventually stopped starting, so it got stripped. The gearbox was put aside in my dungeon for later use.

    Chapter Four - 2016



    Many moons later, I started to finally put together the conversion. Got a cut and shut bellhousing made up from a guy in SA. Bought some bits from USA - transmission crossmember and shifter mount. A few little bits and pieces to make the conversion a little nicer.

    I had 5 weeks off uni and there was no better time to do it. Nopics had finally gone back to work after maternity leave finished up, so I 3 days a week, for 5 weeks, of potential time to touch the car.

    Step one: remove old gearbox. I fucking couldn't. The OS Giken clutch is a bi taller and square shaped compared to stock clutches, so there is less room between it and the firewall. The Nismo engine mounts effectively raise the engine, since they aren't 20 year old compressed rubber things that stock cars would have. I loosened the mounts, lowered the crossmember, etc. Every dirty trick I could. No dice.

    I had to wait a day or two for a friend to swing by, literally lean on the motor as I pulled the box, and it came off. Sigh.

    I cut all the plugs off the sensors to modify the Z box with, got it ready, and tried to put it back together. The box is 20kg heavier, and the weight isn't centralised - the trick to getting boxes in is put them 1/3 upside down, slot it into the crank and then spin it into the right orientation. Because the weight is awkwardly distributed in the Z box, when you try spinning it, 20 kg goes here and 40kg goes there. Disaster.

    I waited a week or two for the same mate to swing by again. He literally used one hand at the back of the box to stabilise it, and it went straight in. So flustering. Once it was in, I could measure for a tailshaft, and run down to a shop to get something made.



    Waited a few days for the shaft. From this point the conversion went smooth. Shaft went straight in, oil into the box, and the car drove! Fantastic!

    Except it made a hideous noise when labouring the engine.



    "Don't labour it then". I couldn't sleep with it like that. Was it the clutch? Did I fuck up the gearbox swapping the bellhousings? What the fuck is it? I waited another week for a mate to be able to swing by and get the box off.

    We stripped the box down, nothing obvious. No sign of damage to the clutch or pressure plate. There was some slop when you turned the input shaft clockwise then counterclockwise. My friend declared that is the problem. Fuck.

    This was halfway through the last week of my time off. I needed the car running, and I didnt have time to deal with shit. I advertised the conversion with fucked gearbox, it got snatched up that day. I bought Anthonys last spare SR box (I had sold mine for a premium the week it was removed).

    Except the clutch wouldn't bleed. My friend had pushed the pin in the slave when we were checking to see if the clutch was fully disengaging, and that appeared to kill the used master that was put in during my previous batch of clutch troubles.

    Anthony had a BNIB S15 master, so I grabbed that another night. Waited a week for a friend to help me bleed it. The car was finally back on the road! I was $40 richer, for having sold my good gearbox. But then I noticed that the car always made a noise when labouring... the different driveline somehow amplified this. And since I used an SR size throwout bearing carrier instead of an RB size, the bearing was resting on the pressure plate. The noise was amplified through the driveline and resulted in the clutch rattling.

    get

    fucked

    cunt

    The icing on the cake was this new gearbox would pop out of 2nd. If you went into gear, and didn't load it up, it would pop out a second later. If you accelerated, it would stay in gear.

    But coming into a corner in third gear, switching to second, you'd have to hold the shifter in gear and corner with one hand. Fuck me, what a shit car to drive.

    This coupled with the bush bearing turbo, the car was the opposite of a sports car. The only plus was the 2 way KAAZ I picked up in the last story.

  9. #69
    Registered User evo-gsr's Avatar
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    Lol! This just keeps getting better. Dunno how you kept yourself from torching the thing by now!!
    Quote Originally Posted by BigMuz View Post
    Fuck 1uz you're such a sad cunt, trolling at a rookie level is the lowest form of self expression.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fatboy View Post
    Interesting that no-one wants to come to the rescue of 1uz though. Maybe he really is an annoying flog ?

  10. #70
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Soooo glad I didn't buy a Nissan
    Good read though
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  11. #71
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    Chapter Five - 2016



    Instead of blowing the gearbox money on crap, I decided to buy crap instead. My wheel alignererer guy put up a near new disco for sale. Oldmate bought with a 0.64 housing, got it ceramic coated, and had the car tuned. Not happy.

    Bought a 0.86 housing and got it ceramic coated. Car was tuned and did half a day at Wakefield. Not happy.

    So he bought some precision turbo and put up the day old disco for peanuts. It was as close as I'd get to the GT2530, so I grabbed it, and the car has been more funner since.



    Then not long later, another cheap ish Z32 was up for sale, not far away. It was a manual, non-turbo P plater special, and it had been driven into the ground. Literally.

    Every panel was damaged in some way. Rust. Mix of OEM paint, poor repair work, and rattle can. The bonnet had some weird vents installed - PC speaker covers? $0.20 bathroom drain covers? What the fuck? This car I actually couldn't bother stripping. Just pulled out the gearbox, brakes, passenger seat, and wheels. Scrapped the rest. I've mentioned what I think of the R33 crowd, the Z32 crowd is even worse. It is the RWD Nissan that shares the least components with other cars, and therefore, the community is insulated from the rest of RWD Nissan lovers. And thoroughly inbred. Fuck

    The car had a one piece tailshaft. For some reason, all Z32's destroy their center bearings, so almost every Z has a one piece tailshaft. They are correspondingly dirt cheap. But a useless commodity in an insulated community.

    I was trying to sell it for peanuts, knowing that I'd need 800ish to get a new one made. I finally found a buyer, but had a light bulb moment. I ran downstairs and measured the shaft, it was 8mm shorter than the one I had made up. Meaning it'd fit a Silvia.

    2+2 Z32 tailshafts fit S13 Silvias

    *with a Z32 gearbox




    Anyway, new year, new me. We moved house last year, so have a cozy double garage, with less shit/treasure than I've ever had. Doing this gearbox swap was relatively luxurious. This time I had a friend come to help put the Z32 box in, which was infinitely easier in comparison to the first attempt.

    The only dumb issue I had was changing over the flywheel to a non-OS Giken one. The ARP flywheel bolts are apparently 1.4mm longer than SR20 OEM bolts. Meaning if the back of your crank has been machined slightly, or if you have a slightly thinner flywheel, the bolts bottom out. Flywheel bolts bottom out in the crank.

    It hasn't been an issue for me, but on 7 of the 8 bolts, the very last thread was squashed. Ugh.

    A mate dropped off a new set, I cleaned the threads and everything, loctited everything paranoidly, and it went back together. And the car drives!

    ~~ Epilogue ~~

    The car is driving fine, with the driveline I want. ~200kw turbo terror up front, Z32 gearbox in the middle, and GTR diff holding fort out back. If I could be bothered to go to a track day on any of my huge stash of 16's, it should be impossible to have any driveline breakages. Finally. What an adventure. The Car Is Ready™.

    (*I'm sure I just jinxed it)

  12. #72
    Registered User darwinschops's Avatar
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    Wow. That's fucking awesome (edit lol end to the story) man, be good to see the next iteration(s)!
    Last edited by darwinschops; 21-01-18 at 05:18 PM.

  13. #73
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Why do I suspect after the highest of highs, we're about to see the lowest of lows?

  14. #74
    Registered User evo-gsr's Avatar
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    .
    Last edited by evo-gsr; 21-01-18 at 02:37 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by BigMuz View Post
    Fuck 1uz you're such a sad cunt, trolling at a rookie level is the lowest form of self expression.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fatboy View Post
    Interesting that no-one wants to come to the rescue of 1uz though. Maybe he really is an annoying flog ?

  15. #75
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irsa76 View Post
    Why do I suspect after the highest of highs, we're about to see the lowest of lows?
    Nervously waiting for the new flywheel to come loose and cut my feet off.

    No wait, please don't.

    That's basically where the car is today. The Bride seats are gone, there's a Recaro Le Mans confetti driver seat and an S15 passenger. I finally properly finished my battery relocation after 4? years of it being temporarily ratchet strapped to my strut brace.

    There are plenty more dumb stories, I've been looking through old photos to find the juicy parts.

    I'll never stop doing dumb cunt things, because I can't seem to leave it alone. Besides, other people won't learn if I don't keep putting my dick in things.


  16. #76
    Registered User gmr's Avatar
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    Getting ptsd reading this man. Great cars.. when they run.. properly lol

  17. #77
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    - 2014 -

    I was using some china gauges with some gktech thingybobs to fit them. One of which was a spacer plate that goes between the coolant outlet and the head, with a provision for a water temp sensor. With this combination, I would see coolant temps of 90-95, and occasionally the needle would steadily creep up to 110 and back down to 90, with no difference in the stock temperature gauge (they're useless, I know) and no difference in the way the car was running.

    I could only assume this was due to heatsoak, from the sensor effectively being in direct thermal contact with the engine. So I was looking to replace everything with name brand, higher quality bits. I was halfway through an email to Jesse Streeter for some Defi gauges, when an S14 project popped up for sale, with a full complement of Defi items

    Boost, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, exhaust temp, along with the link display, and a Concept VSD heads-up display. Retail on this would have been closer to $2k at some point.


    (Pic from the last month, but there's the gauges + Okachan water temp gauge. Yes, total fanboi)

    The car otherwise was a half-finished track car minus engine and box. The KAAZ 2-way I sold to a friend, and he refused to pay a discounted price, only to open the diff up at home and see it was a stock S14 diff. Didn't I look like an cockhead?

    The car had other fruit that for some reason was unsellable. I ended up giving away a vented bonnet because it had a 1cm crack on it. It took a year or two to actually sell off all of the bits and break even.

    Anyway, the Defi gauges. I installed them all, except for the exhaust temp, which was sold. My fuel pressure appeared to be fluctuating at idle. Hmm.

    Nissan's of this era run 43.5 psi fuel pressure at idle. My car was seemingly making 20-30 psi. I went for a test drive and whilst driving, it was still fluctuating, but slowly failing. HMMM.

    I parked up at home, and was experimenting with clamping fuel lines, but the car started spluttering. Idle was dropping until it eventually stalled, and would not start. Car sat under the street light for a few weeks.



    Obviously, it was the "Walbro 255" that the previous owner had installed! So I bought a new one from JustJerks, installed it, fixed up some dodgy wiring, and tried to start it. Flat battery.

    Got my jump starter kit, it didn't help much.

    I decided to replace the new-ish battery that had gone flat a few times, due to the car being on and off the road repeatedly. Also decided it was a good time to do a battery relocation. I used a new, proper quality battery box, and reused some cable I pinched out of a parts car. Except the cabling wasn't quite long enough, so the battery box was ratchet strapped to my strut brace. But there was a new battery in the boot, and hardwired the fuel pump with its own relay, as S13's are notorious for having random voltage at the fuel pump. Ok, time to start.

    15 PSI fuel pressure. Motor turning over but not starting. Not even trying.

    Hang on... the Defi gauges came with a bunch of spare sensors. I installed the spare pressure sensor for the fuel gauge, now I have 2.9 bar pressure. Perfect. Wait a minute...

    Ok, so beginning diagnosis:
    - CAS timing is right
    - CAS works and spare cas works also - if you spin the sensor by hand with ignition on, the fuel injectors fire
    - No spark
    - plugs all fine
    - 3 sets of coilpacks no change
    - 3 ignitors no change
    - 2 ecu's no change

    dafuq

    I've gone over diagrams in the FSM. The coilpacks have power, earth, and signal wires.

    Signal comes from the ignitor

    Ignitor has power, and 4 switched lines from the ecu. This sends one of four 'fire' signals to the coilpacks

    With my test light, I could see there was power going to the ignitor, power to the coilpacks, but seemingly no 'fire' signal going from ECU to ignitor. I was told at this point you can't test a CAS with testlight, you need an oscilloscope. This is getting out of hand

    For some reason I can't remember, I borrowed Anthonys old laptop with Nistune software (and his Apexi RVIT, which just plugs into the consult port and can read things like error codes etc.)

    I plugged in the laptop, and it straight away comes up with E11 Camshaft Position Sensor

    But I have multiple CAS that all work? How the fuck can they not work if the injectors fire?

    CAS has four wires - 12V, earth, 180° signal and 1° signal.

    One of the signal wires had a break in it (this loom had been on fire before I owned the car, but seemed to be fine) so the coils would not fire, but the remaining signal wire was enough for the ECU to drive the injectors. Anthony gave me a spare loom with multiple plugs cut off (like AFM), I plugged in what was there, and the car roared to life. Sonofa

    Locky was doing an order of parts for his Sil80 from America using a freightforwarder, so organised a brand new engine loom from Wiring Specialties for me. This arrived, car had a noticeably stronger idle and ran better. Was about $900 in parts. Now I check error codes first.

    ~~~ Prologue ~~~



    August 2017. I was about to move house in a few weeks, so it made sense being able to use my hatchback to transport boxes. I couldnt take my strut brace out, as it was holding my battery in place... so I spent a few hundred on a crimper, some proper cabling, fuses and isolator switches, and finally *properly* relocated the battery into the corner of my boot. Very smug now, when I need to do work on the car, I can just turn the isolator switch instead of pulling the lid off the battery box and undoing the terminals. The relocation took three years to finish, but in that time survived a track day and a lot of thrashing. Ratchet strap ftw.
    Last edited by nopistons; 23-01-18 at 12:49 PM.

  18. #78
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    - 2017 -

    This post is probably boring for people who work on cars all day. To people who don't work on cars all day, it will be infuriating because I don't have a Babs style pointer. Sorry.

    Not long after I put the GTR diff in, I noticed some oil on the ground. I replaced one of the CV boots before installing, and predictably, one on the other side let go!



    So what exactly goes on in a CV? Usually a mixture of old oil, water, and some sort of bearing arrangement



    Silvias and Skylines come with one of two types of CV's. Non-turbo and most Silvia's come with "6 bolt" shafts, that is, 3 pairs of bolts connect the shaft to the diff output flanges. These CV's have a tripod arrangement, which are weak pieces of shit.

    Some series of 180SX and all turbo skylines come with "5 bolt" shafts, using a Rzeppa or ball-and-cage CV.

    GTR's and Z32 turbo use an Rzeppa unit with 6 evenly spaced bolts, and a thicker shaft

    [Fun facts - most R200 stub axles use 29 splines. Early GTR are 30 spline, but were upgraded to 31 spline eventually. These are supposed to be the strongest R200's, early R32 drag cars in Japan were known to strip splines in the diff]



    Once you pop the end cap off, and remove a circlip or two, the whole arrangement falls apart. From the center out, there is a driveshaft, which is splined. Upon these splines sits the inner race.



    The inner race looks like a gear, but has cutouts in which six huge ball bearings sit in. Holding these in place is the bearing cage.



    This is all held in place with a circlip. This is a rigid assembly with no movement, aside from the ball bearings held in place with the cage.



    Then the outer race (pictured top center), which is bolted to the diff flange, has six channels that the the bearings are free to slide up and down in. This is what gives the CV joint freedom to lengthen and shorten.

    All of this adds up to a strong joint that has a lot of freedom of movement, meaning the the diff and wheel can move independently off eachother, both in terms of height difference and length apart.


  19. #79
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    Yeah, you have sickness.

    Your comments on the s13 Vs the higher spec Nissan's is the reason that na shitter was sold. After driving the r32 for as long as I did I just couldn't do it, even for a weekend car.
    meh

  20. #80
    Resident Expert too_much_boost's Avatar
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    That Anthony guy seems like both the worst influence in your life and your saviour
    Disclaimer: I may have no idea what I am talking about

  21. #81
    Minister for Sport Sport4's Avatar
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    You're definitely a sick sick man, but in a good way. Please keep the entertainment coming.
    Good one dickhead

  22. #82
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    - 2012 -

    This could have been inspiration for the Einstein thread

    This was the very first wreck I bought.



    Most of my mates from highschool went into trades and got into shit jobs. Success here, failure there, and eventually a bunch of them floated off to the mines. One went out to Cadia with around 45k debt, pulled in 80-100k, and left with a bank account of $0. He finished up at the mines and said he would 'visit', meaning crash on my couch for 3 weeks.

    He turned up with his ute (with towbar) and got comfy, and coincidentally, an S15 shell was advertised on NS for next to nothing, in Nowra. I decided to put mitch to work, we hired a servo trailer (ugh), I grabbed the bag of ratchet straps my ex-roommate thoughtfully returned, and we headed down to the car. The car was as advertised, we agreed on price, and pushed it onto the trailer. I went and grabbed the bag, only to find that there was only half of the ratchet straps. Not half as in, "I lent you four and you gave me two". It was half of each, just the ratchet mechanism and no strap.

    adhguyi1389djgksgadhs

    Mitch pipes up with "no worries, that's why I've got this rope. For emergencies. My emergency rope. This will do the job". He confidently grabs his rope and buck knife and cuts off length and ties the car down. He jokingly says "if you can't tie knots, tie lots!" and before long, the shell is tied to the trailer. I am impressed with his handiness, as I had very little experience in being a productive scumbag. We say goodbye, and head back to Bulli via the coast (flat) road.

    We got back and all of the ropes were loose. The car had moved on the trailer, and the handbrake was the only thing keeping it on it. One sudden brake and we would have been in shit.

    ~~ Bonus ~~

    We set about stripping the car, I let a few boys know. Guy with S15 interior and front conversion came to pinch bits, another curious mate came to help out. Mitch however decided he was getting the windshield out for me, and spent half a day working at it. Using knives, blades, scrapers, eventually went upstairs and stole some guitar strings and chipped away at it. Eventually he declared it was time; he got in the car and lay on his back, both feet against the window, and -- CRACK --

    Thanks buddy

  23. #83
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    - 2014 -

    Car had a surprisingly good streak of smooth operation. Also there was a new girl at work, who lived in my direction. She pulled up along side me at the lights one afternoon and waved. I thought I'd be cheeky and show her just what turbo terror could do. Lights go green and car goes slower than anything I've ever been in. Zero boost. No weird noises or vibrations or anything sinister, its just as if I had requested a 30kw tune.



    Bracket holding the actuator snapped. It was a criminally slow drive back to Wollongong. I sooked about it, Anthony told me I'm a ruiner because the turbo worked fine for him for years. Then told me to shut up and weld it back together.

    Oh, I do have a welder! and I can fix it! I yanked it out, cleaned it up and zapped it back together. Anthony was basically Morpheus at this point.

    When I was reinstalling it, I noticed a huge crack in the ignitor, and the center was caved in. "Oh, I wonder how long that's been like that". It looked like someone was undoing turbo stuff and smashed it with a spanner. Whatever, this car had a hard life before I bought it.



    Two weeks later I was leaving work, and the car started missing under load. Ugh. It was still driving, so soldiered on. I got to the next set of lights and it was breaking down under ANY load. So hazards on, popped bonnet and hopped out. Wiggled, unplugged and plugged everything. Nothing obviously stupid that I could see. One of the work trucks was heading back to the depot and da boyz gave me a horn and a wave (thanks bros). I turn the key and car starts! I got through the intersection and pulled into the dealership where my mate worked (Conveniently). Tested a few things and everything seemed fine? Car starts and revs and drives. Maybe a loose plug?

    I drive off, get back onto Princes highway and its missing again... lose all power and coast through the next intersection, epic gunshot misfires. Car dies. Hazards on, get out and push. Conveniently there was a driveway entrance on the grass, so I pushed it up there... meanwhile cars around me are on the horn to get out of the way. Thanks for helping with the push, spastics.



    Worked it out as having no spark. It's the fucking ignitor! I do a ring around, a mate of a mate has a workshop around the corner and has one spare. I take the Shoelace Express and he hands it over.

    me: "how much?"
    Porter: "see if it fixes your problem and sort me out later"

    Since when are people this nice? I run back to the car and boom, it starts. I nervously drive home as fast as I can before it can break down again.

    I went back to see Porter the next day, hand him two pineapples. He says this is too much, and he's seen me sell them for $50. So $50 is fine.

    MVP.

    Fun events like this are why I replace things with new OEM wherever possible.

  24. #84
    Pull my finger StupidFlanders's Avatar
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    The ignitor on my SR in my 180 shit itself the day before it was due to be tuned. I'd only ever driven it once around the block after converting it to SR. Mad run around trying to find one that day, Scotty at Ichiban got one sent over from SSS for me.

    And one on my old VL RB20 used to randomly drop a cylinder till i worked that out. Shit things.

  25. #85
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    Super frustrating to deal with. Not sure if I prefer "sort of broken and drives badly" or "this part died and now the car doesn't work at all".

    They're generally very reliable though, when you fix up the dumb things you've done yourself and the random shit the ten previous owners have hodge podged. It's a different world when you read build threads from 5-10 years before I started this $2 special, starting with actual low km car's that have had very few number of owners. 4 of the last 5 cars I bought were absolute pieces of shit. The odd car out was a friends car; he was first owner in Aus last decade, he blew his 2nd or 3rd SR in 2011 and the car had sat in his garage for 6 years waiting for an LS1 swap. Meaning it had 90's/00's mods, and was otherwise preserved like a time capsule.

    CSH time:

    When I changed my clutch on a friends driveway, he wasn't there to help me because he went to Newcastle to pick up a car. It was a "complete car", but was previously a rolling shell someone had put an engine in. It was a "driving car" but his mate borrowed the gearbox to test something, so the gearbox was in the boot. So it wasn't currently driveable. Whatever. It was dirt cheap and had an ARC side mount intercooler, which is why Dan bought the car.

    (He took a page out of my book and bought a car because it came with a part)

    When he returned, the engine looked like it had been in the ocean. No way the thing had run in years, let alone in THIS car. He stripped it down but left the shell itself intact, and sold it to some kid in western Sydney. It then got sold to another pair of kids, who put in an S14 NA engine and got it running. One of these owners also stripped out all of the sound deadening.



    At this point Dan bought the car back without realising it was a car he had sold. It had a welded diff, missing a lot of bolts.Things were unplugged, bits and pieces missing. He/we gave it a quick tidy at my house, and then he went to town on it at his place. It became the "Battle Car" that a few guys had a boat load of fun thrashing. Then for some reason, Matty (blue>white S13 / Volvo guy) bought it. He was itching to get back into the game again.



    Ignoring the holes in the bonnet. And broken front bar. And dented front and rear guards. And holes in the boot. And stuffed paint. And missing grills. And nonfunctioning speedo. And the squashed exhaust. And the missing fan shroud. And the brakes were randomly sticking on (so that smoke would come out of the wheel arch, to let you know the pads were on fire). And so on...

    He always wanted an S13 with R33 GTR wheels, ever since saw an old HPI video with a yank driving a blue one. So he bought a set of wheels, and bought a massively overpriced S15 5 stud conversion from a big name wrecker (ugh). I picked up the car and set about doing the mods...



    The "complete" conversion was missing unique nuts and clips. So had to dig through my stash. And ended up having stuffed rear wheel bearings. But also included useless things, like S15 handbrake cables that don't fit on S13's... But alas, it went together, and I swapped out the weldy for an R34 helical diff I had in the garage. Car was a LOT nicer to drive, but still shit. I had to rebuild the rear brakes as the seals were destroyed. Fixed a handful of little things that shouldn't ever need fixing.

    The brakes were still randomly cooking. I thought it might be the brake hoses, seeing as how they are a consumable, and noone ever, ever changes them. In the meantime, Matt did all the body work and resprayed the car, so it actually looked decent



    There was a whole saga re: brakes involving another workshop, but that's another headache. Next stop was fixing the speedo - the S13 had an S14 engine installed, with an S14 loom/ecu nastilly soldered into the S13 body loom. And it was a manual setup, the body was factory auto. All of the auto/manual plugs had been hacked apart and soldered, but they managed to do it in such a way that it was impossible to determine what was actually connected.

    Another mate had just converted his new auto car to manual, so I organised Matt to pick up the auto gearbox loom. This was plugged in and lo and behold, the speedo suddenly worked.

    Matt had the car for over a year and instead of driving and enjoying it, there were just stupid issues to fix. Not because its a badly designed car or its inherently unreliable, simply because most Silvias on the road now have been pulled apart and reshelled and modified and reverted to stock and so on. Or dickheads install the wrong parts outright.

  26. #86
    Registered User [CatchMe]'s Avatar
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    To you for writing the most epic, engaging thread, that sits just a little too close to home...



    PS. Nice Sil80

  27. #87
    Lesbianism is Art! PSi13L's Avatar
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    I miss my S13
    1970 RX2 coupe, 13b turbo.
    1973 Cortina, 5.0 Windsor
    1974 808 sedan, 12a Bridgeport
    1976 Datsun 260c Coupe

    I've got a 1968 XT Falcon.........!

  28. #88
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    This thread is making me want an S chassis, nopics liked the S15s when I worked for the dealer. But I reckon finding a decent one, of any version, is getting harder by the day.

  29. #89
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    I often day dream of starting again and doing a "proper" build, but that will take more time, money and motivation than I have (and foresee to have). Everyone I know knew they were screwing around with S13's and would one day grow up and buy a tidy S15 and live the old man dream. The revised p-plater laws pretty much ended that dream, as it was seemingly easier for a kid to get a loan than a grown up enthusiast. So many smashed S15's since then, and an equal amount with shitty mods and replica of a copy of a knockoff of a replica aero bar.

    Nerd content:

    Anyway, before I was a total hater, I managed to get to Japan for a non-car holiday. Twice.

    Both times, we went to the Toyota museum



    The original Silvia is a very pretty car in person, but the wheels seem like 22z.



    Joyously, the Toyota museum has more non-Toyota than Toyota. Including one of my favourites, the Isuzu Bellet.



    Whilst on our non-car holidays, I spied many a street car. DR30 was another car I always lusted over. When I crashed my first 180 and was looking for a replacement, DR30 prices finally started going up. I turned my nose at a few $3k examples months before, and suddenly they were 6k+ and rising.



    Onepics was quite exasperated when I got excited by every single Kei car, and tried to use her for scale. I had a place in my heart for Daihatsu's, even before MCM, from watching a friend chop Camaro's and Challengers in ridiculous races in Gran Turismo 2. Weapon of choice: Daihatsu Mira TRXX.



    I think everyone goes to the Nismo factory, but the cars on display are often on rotation. First time I went there was the Z-tune, man it has presence in person.



    The workshop is absolutely spotless



    I liked the little touches, like using camshafts for door handles.

    [IMG]blob:https://imgur.com/29effadf-06fb-4dcd-9a42-20d4ff7c3bda[/IMG]

    The Nissan Engine Museum is a bit small and brief, but has a lot of cool things. Like the grand daddy, Prince GR8 race engine.



    The GR8 was eventually followed by the S20. S20 equipped Skylines were very expensive, with most of the cost being the engine itself. Apparently the engines were finicky enough that very few owners actually enjoyed the true potential of the car.



    Evolution took us to the RB26. There was something pleasant about just seeing a clean one.



    In the 80's/90's, Nissan and Toyota had a fierce rivalry with Group C cars. This involved a lot of very expensive cars running very expensive V8 engines. Toyota stuck with a 3.0L, while the Nissan cars usually used 3.5L in twin turbo form. A later 3.4L version was developed for GTR's when they finally retired RB26's, and a 5.0 was done for V8 supercrap.

    Anyway, the ridiculous development of these motors actually trickled down to the Toyota UZ and Nissan VH engines. People are surprised at the 400 bolt mains they use, and the longevity and reliability, but at the same time, Nissans race engines were famously running 1300+ hp accidentally. A qualifying car at Le Mans had issues with the wastegates and ran unlimited boost, and clocked the fastest speed achieved on the straight after the chicanes were added. Data logging showed the car was performing "unusually well".



    [I]This proves that log manifold should never be used[/I



    VQ37HR head. Gee, they're getting a bit chunky with all that added-value. Wait, what's that?



    Two cams? Wtf is this?

    In the late 90's, Nissan started introducing more letters after engine names. Things like "VE" and "NEO". The VQ engines went from DE to HR. Then VHR. Then VVEL was thrown into the mix. They had some pretty normal shit, then brought in variable cam timing, then VTEC-style multiple lobe things, and then... variable lift? how the fuck do you vary lift?

    Just like the unreliable and disappointing SR20, VQ uses rocker arms. Unlike the SR20, the rockers are all mounted on a shaft. An eccentric shaft. As RPM increases, the shaft rotates, thereby moving the pivot point for the rockers. This increases the rocker ratio with RPM. Meaning the effective lift of the camshaft increases with RPM

    The cams grow bigger with RPM.



    My car doesn't have this capability. But have done a tank of fuel since doing the gearbox swap, and it hasn't blown up! Did a 4 hour drive across Sydney and back through traffic in 32 degree heat without water/oil temps going above 80. It survived a night of durability testing, and even can be used to purchase groceries! phew

  30. #90
    Extended member nopistons's Avatar
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    Another day, another step forwards in the accumulation of knowledge. And frustration

    My car always had a nasty highway RPM owing to the fact that I always had nonturbo gearboxes. The turbo gearbox uses a 0.767:1 ratio vs. the nonturbo's 0.838:1. It doesnt look like a big difference but at highway speeds, its a difference of 300-400 RPM.

    Locky with the restoredish Silvia has been experiencing the same joys, so acquired an S14 turbo gearbox to swap over. I volunteered my garage for the swap



    We got to work early. Even though we had a helper, somehow it took longer than we anticipated



    Everything on Lockys car has been new, painted, or cleaned up. Pretty much the opposite of my car, where namebrand parts get dipped in oil, dirt, and then installed into my dirty, bashed up and previously on fire engine bay.



    Our helper made sure the tyres were tight.

    The car went back together without any issues and we went for a test drive. 5th gear was exactly the same as the S13 NA gearbox. Cue immense rage.

    I had a satisfying shit some time in the afternoon, and had the good old Toilet Epiphany™. S13's and JDM S14's have 4.083:1 diff ratio, but Australian delivered S14's have a nasty (economical)3.692:1 final drive. With that sort of gearing with the long 5th gear, you'd have to change gear every single slight incline on the highway... I checked an Australian FSM and lo and behold, the Australian S14 turbo gearbox has the same ratios as the S13 non-turbo. Fucking cunts fuckin.

    Live and learn I guess.

    Speaking of excellently reliable Sil80's, since I had to move my car out of the garage, I noticed that perhaps some of the protective dirt had fallen off during my recent driving, and there was now a small puddle of engine oil where it had slumbered.


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