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Thread: General paint prep

  1. #1
    Registered User FioriGuy's Avatar
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    General paint prep

    Hi all,

    Panting a 205.

    Sanding it back.

    Tips? Have a whole bunch of Peugeot spray cans and am not keen on wasting them all due to shit prep.

    Have 150 grit'd the sheen off.

    Car is straight, but 25 years of sun has killed the clearcoat and crazed the paint underneath.... is it just a matter of getting everything nice and flat and keyed and then priming over it or... does the new base go on the old primer, or...?




  2. #2
    Defective Faux Forg's Avatar
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    150 is way too coarse to paint over, but keep sanding until all the bad paint is gone. Then, spray a very light mist of primer over what you've sanded. The mist will settle into the bottom of the sanding scratches. Then sand that with 400 until all the primer mist is gone. Then primer, sand smooth with 600+, more primer, sand out any little imperfections, paint, paint, paint. All light coats or it'll fry and/or run.
    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin
    Chickens will slip under water in the cover of darkness like a seal team and FUCK YOU UP.

  3. #3
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    Sand all the old paint off, and get into the factory primer. There is no better adhesion to the metal than factory primer, as long as that primer hasn't been exposed to UV by peeling paint or rust, and that factory primer is a urethane or an epoxy. Try not to get down to bare metal over much area unless you're doing body filler.

    150 grit is MUCH too coarse to shoot paint over-you'll need to use a sandable filler primer and cut that to 400 grit, then either your topcoat or an epoxy sealer and then your topcoat. Is your peugot spray a base coat or a single-stage, and is it a lacquer, acrylic enamel, or acrylic urethane?
    Last edited by Xnke; 04-02-18 at 11:17 AM.

  4. #4
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    As per the other guys, you don't want to paint over anything more coarse than 400 IMHO.

    Prime/fill, then 400 sand, block / guide coat till even, then prime again then 400 then paint.
    302 Ford Windsor Technical Forums

    Quote Originally Posted by rollin7
    but I'm seriously in love with this thing ...the pure uselessness and dickheadness of this mustang makes it the most enjoyable car I've ever driven, its fucking STUPIDLY loud for no reason, it gos real fast but wont slow down, they have made the suspension real hard and yet and it wont corner worth a shit. theres something very Aussie about it, like the drunk guy who makes a hat out of watermelon.

  5. #5
    Registered User FioriGuy's Avatar
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    It's a single stage acrylic from what I can tell

    Any recommendations for filler primer and clear in a can? The SuperCheap auto stuff is pure crap. Balls up and gets all over your fingers right out of the can, have been blocking it out but the stuff I had from the UK was way better quality.

    Layed down a layer, blocked it back, second layer just went on. Probably going to have to block most of it back off due to the amount of runs

  6. #6
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    Filler primer from spray bombs is usually shit unless you let it dry completely in a perfect humidity controlled environment.

    Even then it's sketchy.

  7. #7
    Defective Faux Forg's Avatar
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    I've used the Rustolem stuff from Autobarn on SLS 3d printed stuff at work. It took a lot of layers, but I got a smooth finish in the end. Heaps better than the Supercheap rubbish. You need to shake the fuck out of the can before you start spraying too. I ended up with dents in the can from the ball bashing the inside of it.
    Last edited by Faux Forg; 10-02-18 at 03:41 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin
    Chickens will slip under water in the cover of darkness like a seal team and FUCK YOU UP.

  8. #8
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    Buy your primer from the same place you buy your top coat (i.e. a paint shop) and make sure its all compatible.
    302 Ford Windsor Technical Forums

    Quote Originally Posted by rollin7
    but I'm seriously in love with this thing ...the pure uselessness and dickheadness of this mustang makes it the most enjoyable car I've ever driven, its fucking STUPIDLY loud for no reason, it gos real fast but wont slow down, they have made the suspension real hard and yet and it wont corner worth a shit. theres something very Aussie about it, like the drunk guy who makes a hat out of watermelon.

  9. #9
    Registered User FioriGuy's Avatar
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    3rd coat just went down, staked the absolute fook out of the can before applying and it went on way better

    Following the instructions, whodathunk?

    After i've flattened this layer down and made it good, it's go time. Wish me luck.

  10. #10
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    To avoid runs and drips in you topcoat, shoot a "mist coat" first-you're not going for coverage, you just want a light misting of paint on the surface all over. Not solid color, not even 50% cover. Let this dry 2-3 minutes, till it starts to tack up. (shoot a test panel and touch that for the tack-test, don't touch your actual part!) Then shoot your first full-coverage layer-for single stage this layer should go on with some gloss, again-give it a few minutes to make sure it's not going to run, and if the gloss starts to fade before it's started drying, shoot another coat-keeping in mind every additional coat ups the risk of a run.

  11. #11
    Registered User FioriGuy's Avatar
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    Got it looking good, laid down the first colour layer

    It's the gunmetal in these tins (they're like 15 years old) not the colour I need

    I can order the correct ones, but now I need to know... can I just flatten the gunmetal and spray the good colour over the top, or so I need to sand it all off and start with primer again?

  12. #12
    Defective Faux Forg's Avatar
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    Spray over it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin
    Chickens will slip under water in the cover of darkness like a seal team and FUCK YOU UP.

  13. #13
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    Sand it with 400 grit and then shoot over it. Treat it like expensive primer.

  14. #14
    Registered User FioriGuy's Avatar
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    Been about a fortnight now... Looks good. A few imperfections but i'll know better for next time

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