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Thread: Brake system gurus... removing ABS?

  1. #1
    Registered User MWP's Avatar
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    Question Brake system gurus... removing ABS?

    Hi all,

    So i want to remove the ABS system from my 1990 Celica GT4.
    The factory setup has crossed fl-rr fr-rl circuits.

    Can I just bin all the factory lines, abs brick & combination/proportioning valves, and just run:
    - master1 out -> T -> front left & front right
    - master2 out -> rear prop valve -> T -> rear left & rear right

    Is it that simple?
    Or isn't that ideal / safe?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Yes, you should be able to do just that.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  3. #3
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    Agreed, should be that simple.

    Might require engineering if registered. If not registered, should be OK. And are you planning on retaining the booster?

  4. #4
    Registered User MWP's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.
    Yup, i'll keep the factory master & booster.

  5. #5
    Opens GAZ914's Avatar
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    Just be careful with brake bias front to rear.

    I did something similar on my N14 Pulsar SSS - no ABS though.
    Ended up with too much rear brakes (no proportioning valve) and ended up fitting an aftermarket prop valve to the rear and all good.

    My VT Commodore rally car also has no ABS now and it feels a bit rear biased - in this case it is a good thing
    Race Car: VT Commodore (Murray)
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  6. #6
    Registered User TRD-MX62's Avatar
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    Really don't get the whole remove the ABS thing, even 90's toyota ABS is better than most people can do.
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    Registered User Shane001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRD-MX62 View Post
    Really don't get the whole remove the ABS thing, even 90's toyota ABS is better than most people can do.
    Depends what you're doing it for. Had a mate a few years back still with ABS on an RX7 race car, ABS computer threw a spastic on the main straight at SMP and nearly put him in the wall. First thing I did with mine is rip the shit out lol.
    Last edited by Shane001; 15-05-18 at 08:33 PM.

  8. #8
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    90s abs is the suck on gravel.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  9. #9
    Registered User MWP's Avatar
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    1990 Toyota ABS is suck everywhere. Really terrible.
    I'm also now using larger front brakes, and using Prius front uprights that have no wheel speed sensors.

    I'll be installing a Wilwood proportioning valve somewhere in the cabin.

  10. #10
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Take caution when removing the abs brick as they can have stored fluid pressure in an accumulator. Bit of rag over the pipes.
    xw Falcon 393 full race cam, NGK spark plugs.

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  11. #11
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MWP View Post
    Hi all,

    So i want to remove the ABS system from my 1990 Celica GT4.
    The factory setup has crossed fl-rr fr-rl circuits.

    Can I just bin all the factory lines, abs brick & combination/proportioning valves, and just run:
    - master1 out -> T -> front left & front right
    - master2 out -> rear prop valve -> T -> rear left & rear right

    Is it that simple?
    Or isn't that ideal / safe?

    Thanks.
    I had a '94 Pulsar GTi-R and that is exactly what I did. Worked fine.

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