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Thread: Land-Yolo Discovery 1 #2 - Im officially broken

  1. #31
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    Sooo. Not had much time to work on this aside from do what I do best which is waste time fucking around with useless, unimportant shit. Waiting to do tax before i send my big order of parts off so in the mean time ive been doing shit that doesnt cost money, like cleaning the dirt out of this thing and trying to work out where the water is leaking into it from.

    Holy shit is it filthy.



    This was behind the trim when i removed it



    Centre console before-during



    After a LOT of fucking scrubbing.



    So. Cant find out where its leaking water from which is mildly amusing. First thought was its coming from the Alpine windows, but the drip of water is coming from half-way up the car between the rear 1/4 window and the alpine window, and both seals are DRY to the touch despite water clearly coming in [it was raining at the time]. Got me fucked on that one, may just have to bite the bullet and replace both seals/hope it fixes it.

    What was waiting for me



    Wire brush and de-ox later



    Now, I cannot weld for shit, but i can grind half decent. Instead of cutting and replacing the sheet metal i decided to build up the tacks till its solid.



    Worked ok / that will do.



    Intake piping off. Yes, that is a tyre tube duct-and-electrical taped to the inlet pipe





    Not entirely sure thats whats choking the thing as even with the hole it feels quite solid however still needs bin/replacement. This however may be whats causing the lack of balls...[its the top intercooler "pipe"]



    On topic of squashed intercooler piping, heres one the factory prepared earlier..



    Yes, its meant to be like that!!!!!

    Also picked up an ARB winch bar with a little bit of damage. Need to try heat/straighten the upright where its been hit, if no dice ill just cut the whole top half off and run it as a front bumper only



    N-

  2. #32
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    Update of sorts.

    Really need this thing on the road but until the house sells and frees up some cash, any spare coin and time is being funneled into reno'ing new place leaving dick all for the 4wd. Collected little bits and pieces for it when they've come up really cheap and some of the servicing stuff required to hopefully keep me busy when I do get a little bit of time up my sleeve to do the more involved stuff.

    Did fucking nothing from august last year until Christmas - being on holidays for 4 weeks means I could throw some time at it. First thing to do was turf the ugly nudge bar; put it up on FB for $50 thinking no one would want it....sold. Too easy; instantly less-rapey looking.



    Have been chasing a water leak in it which caused the rust to the rear corner. Picked up some new seals for the alpine windows but repeated water testing has confirmed the leak is DEFINATELY not coming from there. You can see some water pooling just under the main window with no trace of where its coming from - it just appears.



    More digging and i found some service bulletins which revealed the answer. Apparently the sealant used to join the roof panel to the rest of the body gets old and cracks. Land rover in their infinite wisdom decided the best place to flange these two panels and run the sealant was....in the rain gutter. Its an easy enough fix fortunately, but fucking stupid engineering practice.



    Doggo is unimpressed at how long this is taking.



    Speaking of unimpressed. Tried to re-make the inlet pipe out of straight 2.5" tubing using pie-cuts. Figured its a great way to practice welding due to the amount of welds needed plus I already have the pipe sitting at home. Note to anyone doing this - even using the old pipe as a template, its fucking impossible to do this with any sort of accuracy when the car is located elsewhere and you cant check fitment. Wasted time to find it dont fit.



    Given this thing will be daily driven / weekend tourer, sound is important so plan was always to throw in a stereo of sorts. Previous owner of the house I just bought hoarded a ton of shit under the house, a lot of which was car audio - most of it garbage, but between this stash, and the stash of stuff I have at my place, plan is to spend as close to zero putting a stereo in this as possible. The only thing i want to spend money on is the head unit/source - plan is to buy an older alpine or pioneer and hijack the cd stacker input. Yes i know thats a strange thing to get anal about but i find your dash lighting up like a fucking Christmas tree is tiring on long distance drives so something that looks like its meant to be there is the aim. So far in terms of gear ive dug out a set of 4" kicker splits for the front doors from under the house, infinity 6.5" 3 ways which i plan on shoving in rear pillars courtesy of my old SS - plan on running these through an infinity 4chan amp that my nopics bought for her car that has since gone unused. Whats the point of all this ramble? Well, D1a and D2 discos had 2x 6.5" subs mounted on the rear door. I too, would like some bass so i grabbed the factory "box" from a D1a at the wreckers.



    Quality factory speakers



    Had to repair the box as the plastic mounts snap off with age due to the weight of it and the plastic going brittle. Drilled a hole, used a nutsert and bolted on a piece of stainless angle.



    Dug out some pioneer 6.5" splits from under the new house to use as a woofer; plan on feeding them from a monoblock kicker also courtesy of the rape-dungeon at new place, so that should hopefully keep only low freq going through it



    Bullbar repairs. This thing has copped a fucking serious whack in it, because I know how hard I was hitting it and how reluctant it was to come back. Close up of the damage to the upright:



    Combination of heating it with a torch, sledgy, ratchet straps looped around etc got it close enough to where it needed to be. Rest came via building up weld on the edges, and grinding it down. Skim of bog and a hit with paint and its close enough to call good - given second hand winch bars tend to be 600ish, this one costing me 300 suits me fine.





    Need to get some 3mm plate to weld up the indicator holes in the bull bar. Ive got a set of 5" PIAA foggies to go on top of the bar, so hopefully can get some flush mounted LEDs to use as driving lights in place of where the indicators would be. Need to do a bit of research here as nfi how good or bad the ones advertised on evilbar actually are. Speaking of lights, found a brand new small rectangle foggie with metal mesh gaurd in the dungeon under the house. Free is my kinda thing, so this will go next to towbar as a reversing light.

    Relocated to new house.



    Which means it can begin to get messy, so paint prep begins.





    Severely under estimated how big this fucking thing is and how long itll take to sand it down. Fortunately its pretty damn straight so thats something at least; should hopefully be ready to hit in highfill by this weekend. Need to also camel-cut the rear gaurds in prep for bigger tyres - tossing up between 245/75/R16s which are everywhere, or 235/85/R16 which are a bit more uncommon but what the Camel Trophy discos ran with and a bit taller than the 245. 265/75/R16s arent an option as itll need adjustment to the lock stoppers, making it a cunt to drive.

    Ages ago i got my hands on some TerraFirma big-bore/expedition shocks for the bargain price of $100 and the bloody things are damn near new too, so score on that. Been keeping an eye out for springs - you'd think itd be easy, but nope. Thought about doing the Tight-ass lift of using standard 80 series front springs in the rear of the rover, and rover rears moved to front - apparently nets 2". Ended up finding some OME 2" front HD's, and Les Richmond 2" rear mid duties for $150 so jumped all over them.

    Still fucking around with intercooler options - dont want to go the double-thickness upgrade route as its a lot of money for a poorly constructed china cooler [$550] and then need the silicon intecooler hoses to upgrade my fucked ones. Budget is the aim of the game and $750 just to do the intercooling is not budget. So....currently trying to find a cheap or generic intercooler, plan is to check that in front of radiator and run the piping in the small gap between the headlights and the radiator. Going to the front mount setup means I can also use the V8 radiator [which, my white V8 has a good one] which is also approx 35% bigger than the diesel one; bonus.

    Anyway, thatll be enough ramble for today.

  3. #33
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    Are the outer panels on these steel like a normal car or aluminium like a classic range??
    .

  4. #34
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    aluminium with a steel roof - because Land Rover
    Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars

  5. #35
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    The steel roof is a good thing. Defenders have an alloy roof and they are notorious for cracking when, you have a roof basket on them
    Quote Originally Posted by Rdyno
    70ynu has to be the most retarded cunt here. "Help me please" me "you need to remove your head" him "fuck off cunt I'm to lazy fuck off out of my thread you told me to do something I don't want to do so you're a cunt fuck off can some one please tell me an easier way???"
    Quote Originally Posted by Tripper
    Its a tight battle between you and rogercordia for the most retarded member on here, thou i think you have it by 5 window licks

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo510 View Post
    aluminium with a steel roof - because Land Rover
    What he said /|\

    So much alloy and somehow the fucking things still weigh more than the equiv sized japanese 4wd

    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOPARMAN View Post
    The steel roof is a good thing. Defenders have an alloy roof and they are notorious for cracking when, you have a roof basket on them
    Where do they crack though - on the flange where the join is or further in? Apparently in Discos the roof can seperate from the rest of the body due to the way its attached

  7. #37
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    Yeah, disco's are just as bad for cracking with big roof racks/rooftop tents etc on them.

    Mine and all of my mates discos have had cracks around the tops of the b pillars
    Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo510 View Post
    Yeah, disco's are just as bad for cracking with big roof racks/rooftop tents etc on them.

    Mine and all of my mates discos have had cracks around the tops of the b pillars
    Is this at the top of the B pillar where the weld is?

  9. #39
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    Yeah, seems common across the brands as my Patrol has done it too.

    Great bargaining point if you are looking to buy a disco though
    Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars

  10. #40
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo510 View Post
    aluminium with a steel roof - because Land Rover
    Paint roof white, strip rest of body work to bare alloy. Win.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by F3ARED View Post
    So much alloy and somehow the fucking things still weigh more than the equiv sized japanese 4wd
    Jaguar XJR, Freelander 2 HSE, Jaguar XKR

    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
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    People must assume you are some sort of drug dealer with all these nice cars turning up to a fibro home

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOPARMAN View Post
    The steel roof is a good thing. Defenders have an alloy roof and they are notorious for cracking when, you have a roof basket on them
    well fuck
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  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOPARMAN View Post
    The steel roof is a good thing. Defenders have an alloy roof and they are notorious for being utterly shit

    ftfy
    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
    Only be concerned if that Dunning-Kruger Motorsports bloke is there and goes all Captain Damphands McGigglefingers on you after a couple of lemon squashes....


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  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by F3ARED View Post
    Update of sorts.


    Severely under estimated how big this fucking thing is and how long itll take to sand it down. Fortunately its pretty damn straight so thats something at least; should hopefully be ready to hit in highfill by this weekend. Need to also camel-cut the rear gaurds in prep for bigger tyres - tossing up between 245/75/R16s which are everywhere, or 235/85/R16 which are a bit more uncommon but what the Camel Trophy discos ran with and a bit taller than the 245. 265/75/R16s arent an option as itll need adjustment to the lock stoppers, making it a cunt to drive.

    Anyway, thatll be enough ramble for today.
    Are you sure on that. A guy I wheel with in a disco 2 (I know its a little different) runs 265/75R16's on stock wheels and doesn't have an issue. If you thinking of 2 inch lift 265's minimum imo
    Quote Originally Posted by Babalouie View Post
    Geez we're a bunch of softcocks...we have a 911 and we're obsessing over non-functional ducts and indicator colours

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by vet 180 View Post
    Are you sure on that. A guy I wheel with in a disco 2 (I know its a little different) runs 265/75R16's on stock wheels and doesn't have an issue. If you thinking of 2 inch lift 265's minimum imo
    Disco 2 is slightly different in that the gaurds are already radiused and flared from factory allowing them to run a different offset standard wheel. Its the change in offset that gets the 265 away from the lower castor/control arms. To run a 265 on a D1 you either need to wind the lock stocks out, or cut the gaurds/run flares and a zero offset wheel. Not really keen on doing any of that as this thing is more daily/family hauler/light off roader so dont need to go ballistic with tyre choice. The other thing with running 0 offset wheels is you may aswell just go a 15 and run 32s

    235/85/R16 works out to the same height as the 265 anyway so that will do fine

  16. #46
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    Having fitted 255/85's (33's) to a Disco 1 I can tell you it is a complete pain in the arse.

    I was running 80mm spring lift and still had to cut a lot of metal away, including the rear doors, to get it not to rub.

    Awesome off road though
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    Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars

  17. #47
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    2" lift and 235/85's are the way to go on a disco 1

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by F3ARED View Post
    Where do they crack though - on the flange where the join is or further in? Apparently in Discos the roof can seperate from the rest of the body due to the way its attached
    Iirc along the roof line, mainly at the A & B pillars. Didnt realise the discos did it too. Kinda re-enforces my want for an external cage to mount a rack off.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rdyno
    70ynu has to be the most retarded cunt here. "Help me please" me "you need to remove your head" him "fuck off cunt I'm to lazy fuck off out of my thread you told me to do something I don't want to do so you're a cunt fuck off can some one please tell me an easier way???"
    Quote Originally Posted by Tripper
    Its a tight battle between you and rogercordia for the most retarded member on here, thou i think you have it by 5 window licks

  19. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by F3ARED View Post
    Disco 2 is slightly different in that the gaurds are already radiused and flared from factory allowing them to run a different offset standard wheel. Its the change in offset that gets the 265 away from the lower castor/control arms. To run a 265 on a D1 you either need to wind the lock stocks out, or cut the gaurds/run flares and a zero offset wheel. Not really keen on doing any of that as this thing is more daily/family hauler/light off roader so dont need to go ballistic with tyre choice. The other thing with running 0 offset wheels is you may aswell just go a 15 and run 32s

    235/85/R16 works out to the same height as the 265 anyway so that will do fine
    Ah ok that makes sense. Thanks for that I didnt know that difference between the 1 and 2.

    I miss wrote in my previous post when I said 265 minimum and actually ment 32ís min. I also misread your post that your are considering 235/85ís, a much better size than the 245/75. I am generally a fan of tall and skinny tires and is what I run on my own rig.

    235/85ís should work really well. There is a reason itís the size of the camel trophy competition.
    Quote Originally Posted by Babalouie View Post
    Geez we're a bunch of softcocks...we have a 911 and we're obsessing over non-functional ducts and indicator colours

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    Its funny, from a distance the D1 and D2s look so similar but they are so, so different in many ways. Tyre choice is bigger in the 245/75 and I know i can get a good tyre [Grabber AT3] through work at a good price. Supplier reckons they can get the 235/85 as well so if the cost isnt that big [ie 200 more over 4] its a non-even, 235s it is.

    Really, really running behind schedule with this thing. Its meant to be going Stockton over easter....at this rate, not going to fucking happen! And its not like ive sat around doing nothing either, theres always something getting in the way and slowing progress. Fml.

    So, intercooling. Finally found a core that suits what I want to do and was a shitload cheaper than all the other options which is a bonus. Heres the area I have to play with to try and squeeze it in - image of white V8 not the green turd.



    Plan was to fit the cooler between the two metal uprights that the horn is mounted to which means the X-bracing also needs to go in the bin. Taking a leaf out of the Al-drigos Skidfactory method, ill just use the intercooler to brace the front up in its place. Got one of myself of chinas-finest Ebay intercoolers. Wasnt expecting much for $229 delivered but consider me pleasantly surprised because its actually a really reasonably built thing. Even better was the thing came from sydney 3 days after ordering it via AusPost despite expected delivery being 2 weeks - howsthat?!



    Some quik mafs.

    Standard intercooler is 193 x 260 x 65 - surface area 502cm^2, or 3.26L of volume

    Double thick intercooler is 193 x 260 x 115 - 502cm^2 surface, or 5.77L of volume - way I wouldve gone except cant use the V8 rad, the coolers are 550 for a chinabay and have a shitty 90deg bend on lower outlet.

    Allisport-style full width is 320 x 500 x 55 - 1600cm^s surface, or 8.8L volume. Obviously pretty substantially sized, and cheap too - but outlets go through where the old intercooler is which means no go on the V8 radiator.

    All of the above also mean I cant use the V8 Rad, and still need to replace the intercooler piping [add $150ish for the off the shelf kit]. I really want the V8 rad for two reasons - one, because I have good one in good condition and the one in the 200tdi is fucked, and two, because it adds around 3.5L of capacity to the cooling system which isnt a bad thing regardless of how you look at it. Intercooler I grabbed means I can squeeze the piping between the headlight and V8 radiator. Its also decently sized - core is 200 x 550 x 90, which gives 1100cm^2 area and 9.9L of volume. Winrar.

    Started making the mounting up which looks like its going to be relatively straight forward. Again, stealing ideas straight from al, chopped up a 50x50x5 box section leaving me with two long, solid L Brackets. One on top bolted to rad support via nutserts, lower one to some of the factory holes.

    Yesterday was a fucking bust. Spent all day getting ready to lay primer down - cleaned garage out and hosed it down, rolled out plastic and vinyl to protect shit, spent an eternity masking the thing up [fucking hell i keep forgetting how big the thing is]. Seam sealed the upper rain gutter which is where the water leak comes from [there was a factory advisory listed on it] which went quite well given how messy it can be doing this sort of stuff with sikaflex.






    Prepwashed down, ready to go and.....

    ...fucking all 5 sprayguns are fucked. The 3 HVLP guns are at the other house disassembled, need to give them a really good clean [provided the seals havent fucked out and turned to dust]. The two pot-type guns which i was going to use for priming - the old one is blocked/no go [hey i was 17 when i bought it, yes ive now learnt to look after my shit] and the brand spanker i picked up from dads shelf is....fubar. The mixture/fan adjustment broke off in my hand and the air fitting is wedged and wont come off.

    FFS.

  21. #51
    Flaccid Member bbits_elements's Avatar
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    holy fuck lol a comedy of errors, id have been foetal position after the 3rd!
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  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbits_elements View Post
    holy fuck lol a comedy of errors, id have been foetal position after the 3rd!
    Lol, now where would the fun be in that? Shouldve played the fucking benny hill tune all day between the spray guns, running out of newspaper to mask the thing, running out of masking tape....

  23. #53
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    nip to superderp and grab another? good to see someone looking after one of these. i reckon good originals will be gone soon. and theyre now a classic
    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
    Only be concerned if that Dunning-Kruger Motorsports bloke is there and goes all Captain Damphands McGigglefingers on you after a couple of lemon squashes....


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  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
    nip to superderp and grab another? good to see someone looking after one of these. i reckon good originals will be gone soon. and theyre now a classic
    Pretty much what I did. They had some shitty HVLP gun for $30 or a "better" blackridge one on special for half price for $8 more. Grabbed that, fucked around with fittings and got going.



    Been ages since i picked up a spraygun and you can tell, fucking comedy of errors. Reused half a tin of highfill i had left from the Gemini which had gone a bit lumpy so probably should have thinned it out a bit more, had just enough to do one reasonably thick coat with enough left to do the tail gate door and LHR quarter [need to do later]. Forgot to put the filter in the gun when doing the roof so have bits of shit that need to be rubbed out, big muzzed the fuck out of the RH quarter, accidentally touched one quarter with the hose etc. All in all came out a bit rougher than id like. Fortunately, its highfill so you rub it all off anyway, but i need to pull my socks up come painting time otherwise itll look shit and end up getting redone in Desert Sand. May break it up and do the roof first and rest of the car later just to make it a bit easier to manage

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