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Thread: GT101 hall effect sensor alternative?

  1. #1
    Registered User my limp penis's Avatar
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    GT101 hall effect sensor alternative?

    http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/23...iABEgIlCvD_BwE

    Since these are the go-to for a lot of aftermarket EMS such as Motec etc etc... and now they're NLA

    What's a good alternative for hall effect sensors on crank and cam systems?

    Thanks cunts
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    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    I bought one earlier in the year from efi dynamics
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

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    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    Use a reluctor, those things are nothing but trouble.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

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    This is the reluctor sensor I'm using, almost fits in the same mount as a GT101
    https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.co...e-speed-sensor

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    Registered User my limp penis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JZK25 View Post
    Use a reluctor, those things are nothing but trouble.
    pls elaborate?

    I was eyeing off the GS1012, seems decent.

    Thanks guys
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  7. #7
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    It’s difficult to get clean signals throughout the rev range with those types of sensors when used for engine position. Reluctors work fine. Note that they do not list engine position as an application on those sensors. Yes they can work but they often don’t.


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    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

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    A mate just lunched his big $ SR20 using a GT101. Was fine on a 12 tooth, lost it's shit at higher RPM with a 36 tooth wheel.

  9. #9
    Registered User TRD-MX62's Avatar
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    Should be no issues with OEM toyota sensors
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    the theory is the fuel pump is one of the only things that can fuck out on a diesel

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    Quote Originally Posted by tim510 View Post
    A mate just lunched his big $ SR20 using a GT101. Was fine on a 12 tooth, lost it's shit at higher RPM with a 36 tooth wheel.
    I'd expect a 36 tooth would need to be flywheel sized given target requirements.....might be unfair to blame the sensor if running something like the usual steel ring at typical front pulley dimensions. Only problem I've had occur, is when the sensor was mounted upside down and the arm relaxed sufficiently after several years from radiant heat to alter the air gap, but still ran fine when cold. Lots of head scratching trying to diagnose that one.

  11. #11
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    I am using a ZF GS101205 on a 145mm 36-2 motec wheel. sensor was also supplied by motec. same form factor so can be used wherever a GT101 mount is specified.

    http://switches-sensors.zf.com/us/pr...ensor-gs101205



    also Ross (balancers) sell the threaded barrel cherry sensors with an adaptor that allows them to be installed in a GT101 mount.




    Have scope traces to 8800rpm. no issues. never had a logged Tooth error on the ECU.

    you need the following to have no issues with Hall sensors. people think these things are wire up and go, but if you don't set a trigger with an oscilliscope you are inviting disaster. a missed tooth is a full 10 degrees ignition advance on a 36 tooth wheel.

    -fully screened signal cable from ECU to sensor
    -A sufficiently low impedance pullup for the max frequency you require (signal rise time)
    -Rigid sensor mount for consistent air gap
    -Small air gap (<1mm)
    -appropriate sized target wheel within tooth pitch specs for sensor and as little runout as possible (available on sensor spec sheets)
    -tooth duration at maximum speed must be >50us for a cherry hall sensor to reliably respond (my 145mm wheel with a 33% tooth area (4.2mm/8.4mm) is 61us/tooth at 9000rpm)


    if you haven't checked all the above is within spec you will have a bad time.

    Also, as good as VR sensors are purported to be, on missing tooth wheels If your gap profile isn't correct you can have missed trigger events when the reset tooth comes past.

    Last edited by burn is weird; 26-09-18 at 11:31 AM.

    Oo___oO


  12. #12
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim510 View Post
    A mate just lunched his big $ SR20 using a GT101. Was fine on a 12 tooth, lost it's shit at higher RPM with a 36 tooth wheel.
    who ever put a gt101 on a 36 tooth wheel is a idiot.. they are rated to 4500rpm on a 12 tooth wheel.. its all in the spec sheet...
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  13. #13
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    if wanting to use a direct replacement that works this is the one to use

    https://www.efihardware.com/products...gh-RPM-Version

    i use this on our race car with a laser cut steel wheel and it works perfectly..
    im a cunt
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10sec rx7 View Post
    who ever put a gt101 on a 36 tooth wheel is a idiot..

    yep thats a pretty good character assessment.

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    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim510 View Post
    A mate just lunched his big $ SR20 using a GT101. Was fine on a 12 tooth, lost it's shit at higher RPM with a 36 tooth wheel.
    Haltech? PS2000?
    Jason Broadhurst

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    Registered User MWP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JZK25 View Post
    Use a reluctor, those things are nothing but trouble.
    This.
    Hall effect sensors will always be more fragile than a reluctor (aka VR) sensor.

    Hall effect sensors have a decent amount of circuitry inside them which need a reliable source of power, low heat, etc.

    A VR sensor is just a super simple potted coil of wire. Nothing more.
    They can initially be more difficult to get working compared to hall effect (depending on the ECU used), but once it is working, it'll probably outlive the engine.
    Last edited by MWP; 02-10-18 at 01:17 AM.

  17. #17
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    just use the right sensor for the job... be it hall or VR...
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  18. #18
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    can anyone explain to me what is wrong with a hall sensor when used within its design parameters (target profile, response time, pullup etc)?

    I've never had a problem.

    Oo___oO


  19. #19
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    nothing at all... if there was I wouldn't have one on my race car...
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  20. #20
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burn is weird View Post
    can anyone explain to me what is wrong with a hall sensor when used within its design parameters (target profile, response time, pullup etc)?

    I've never had a problem.
    WHat is wrong is that dumb cunts make kits using sensors that are not suitable and sell them to dumber cunts and then I have to deal with them when they don't work. Shit like converting a 2JZ to cherry sensors, wtff.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

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    get mad al!

  22. #22
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    The 1GT101s I've used were good for over 1kHz, and never failed me.

    Hall circuitry is all solid state and depending on the manufacturer, higher quality low level filtering than any ECU has, and better intrinsic EMC design.

    I think your 36 tooth crank with a Hall will be fine Alex
    Jason Broadhurst

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  23. #23
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    his 36 tooth crank trigger will be fine with a hall designed for that, a GT101 is not designed for that use, yes it may work but chances are it will fail.. I found 24 teeth at 5000 rpm was the limit on my car with a 8in balancer
    its been a while since I looked up the specs but it was something like a 12 tooth wheel 4.5in dia to 4500rpm max.


    now the EFI hardware hi speed version I have personally used on a 36-1 to 9000rpm with zero issues.
    im a cunt
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  24. #24
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    I need a threaded sensor to replace a stock VR one for a 60-2 pickup. With the current flywheel there’s now a 4mm air gap. Al, Dale, would the hall sensor type as sold by EFI Hardware be Appropriate to use here? Is there a threadded VR option?
    Last edited by Jim; 08-10-18 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Fucking phones
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  25. #25
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    it would work but no threaded option. all the threaded ones i have used i would not use for engine position ever again
    im a cunt
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  26. #26
    arboreal bukkake briney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    I need a threaded sensor to replace a stock VR one for a 60-2 pickup. With the current flywheel there’s now a 4mm air gap. Al, Dale, would the hall sensor type as sold by EFI Hardware be Appropriate to use here? Is there a threadded VR option?
    what is the od of the sensor you have now? there's a few options for threaded vr sensors. the most common ones i deal with are 5/8 and 3/4 unf. they're relatively long in the body (~80mm) which may be an issue.
    Quote Originally Posted by Skompa View Post
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  27. #27
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    thanks gents!
    that's pretty big. the bore is only about 15mm.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  28. #28
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    for anyone that comes across this thread.

    ran the ZF GS101205 sensor on a Motec 145mm 36-2 wheel on monday on the dyno, up to a 8500rpm limiter zero trigger errors all day. would bang again

    Oo___oO


  29. #29
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    good to know, thanks for the feedback
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

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